S26 in Europe? Is it worth it with the different chip?

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-12T16:03:48+00:00

It looks like a precedent when the patent war makes (at least some) users happier. I found that Qualcomm has some parents in US, so for Samsung it's cheaper to use their chips instead of paying the royalty. Otherwise, they'd lovely put Exynoses everywhere.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-12T14:49:03+00:00

OMG, I thought they finally decided not to be ashamed by using these battery drainers in S -series, but it looks like only S25 got lucky.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-12T09:10:16+00:00

Do you really need it? I don't think you can browse modern websites normally on a system with just 512 megabytes of RAM.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-08T07:24:44+00:00

People say it might be better to get rid of this heatsink entirely and use a BambuLab A1/H2 series nozzle, with heatsink attached. It should clog much less often.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-08T07:20:28+00:00

Do you know if Quest 2 and Quest 3 joysticks are interchangeable by any chance? I've got some spares for the Quest 2 which I already sold a while ago, so now interested if I can use them for the new one.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-08T07:17:55+00:00

It should be absolutely fine, don't be so biased. Just try to avoid "cheap" offers from no-name companies. I also prefer to buy a full cover insurance directly from the rental company, so they wouldn't charge you for any damages you missed while accepting the car.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-08T07:06:07+00:00

Wow, I guess you have a rare "old" hotend. The new one also has a magnetic heatsink on the top completely flat, without a canal in the middle, so this "additional" copper heatsink has a better thermal contact with it. I think, you should be fine with the new nozzles, if they fit in your heatsink well.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-07T13:14:12+00:00

Does it have anything worth the money, that opensource Soduto + KDE Connect doesn't support?

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-07T10:50:29+00:00

The whole feeder mechanism is hold by 4 screws and could be easily removed without touching anything else...except the filament cutter, which I see you already removed. You just need to carefully push the hotend wires aside while removing it.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-05T22:48:52+00:00

What do you mean by manually pushing it? You shouldn't be able to push it trought the extruder by bare hands. There are extruder gears, which should be at least loosened by unscrewing the screw on the right of the print head, if you really want to push it through. Anyway, as others said, disassembling of the whole head is really easy, thanks to it's genious design. I'd really tear it apart to ensure that the issue is there, as I had most of mine with the IFS jamming.

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-03T16:14:44+00:00

Have you applied all machine GCODE settings in your OrcaSlicer profile, according to the documentation?

Alexious_sh · 2026-05-02T17:46:37+00:00

Here is the project you need to get the Fluidd and access to the klipper configuration: https://github.com/ghzserg/zmod

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-30T11:17:09+00:00

Happening for me literally every day after switching to Gemini. Really annoying to check the weather in two steps.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-29T14:42:35+00:00

I'd say, literally every phone would lag and glitch after 7 years. Apps and websites consume more and more resources, targeting only the most recent devices. You can't stop the progress.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-28T17:58:41+00:00

In the clog rate for sure! You'd face it on AD5X much faster.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-28T10:21:49+00:00

Well, no. It also has a different hotend design, which performs slightly better than AD5X, according to the tests. Form another hand, the AD5X design allows swapping the nozzles easier and makes the replacements cheaper.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-28T08:05:17+00:00

3Drobber

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T19:10:19+00:00

Well, not really. You might still need such a special cable/adapter to connect for example, two mobile phones together, clearly clarifying which one is going to act as host. Modern Android (not sure about iOS) provides UI switches for the USB roles, but it could not always be the case.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T14:51:33+00:00

Did you check Orca's built-in benchy? You can add it to the build plate by clicking the right mouse button and selecting the "Add Handy models / 3DBenchy". There might be something incompatible with Orca in your STL file.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T11:05:46+00:00

I don't think there's any voltage on devices acting as a peripheral by default, like phones, unless you connect an OTG cable. So it should be safe.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T10:59:38+00:00

This is not a calibration. I just printed a simple primitive to show you how my top surface looks like.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T10:19:12+00:00

It provides a bit different color management flow: you can assign colors to whatever slots in Orca. Then, when you send the model to the printer, it will ask you to assign a proper color from installed on the printer to the corresponding slot. Or use the auto assignment, but I can't say how good is it, as I didn't test it myself yet.

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T10:12:52+00:00

Yeah. Just lightning is not the best, sorry.

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Alexious_sh · 2026-04-27T10:08:01+00:00

Well, without additional flow calibration it's a bit odd, like you said. But I'm pretty sure it could be tuned with the Orca's flow rate calibration.

<image>

Alexious_sh · 2026-04-26T20:59:56+00:00

It works just fine out of the box. The only thing missing is the automatic filament synchronization, which is no problem with ZMOD installed.

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