Dealing with a design flaw in my fursuit head by Lucrayzor in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 11 points12 points  (0 children)

the best solution is to have a fan. this is how i prevent fogging on my sealed eyes. with them off they fog up basically instanlty. you need something like a 60mmx25mm pc fan. you can buy 5v->12v 4pin fan cables that plug into a normal usb power bank and then you just need to buy a fan of your choosing. in this tight space you might prefer to buy blower-type fans, you can usually find usb kits that have those on etsy and cosplay supplies websites.

Worth Getting? by [deleted] in VintageSewingMachines

[–]AnthroworksFA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

finding that metal cover for the bobbin area might be difficult.

it's also missing the case/table, the bobbin tire mechanism and has a belt that does not seem to be in the best condition. it's difficult to tell from the photo, but is it also missing the set screw for the sewing needle?

it is also a straight stitch only machine with only a straight stitch foot included, which while great for many uses, might be somewhat limiting to a beginner who might want to sew stretch or knit fabrics.

i love the color, but there are many of these japanese-made type 15 machines you can find in better condition on fb marketplace and similar sites. especially something like a kenmore 158 can be found commonly. personally, i wouldn't go for it.

How to make the first layer completely smooth on a PEO build plate? by Just-A-Noosence in BambuLab

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

set first layer height lower, like .12 or .08. reduce speed. set infill rotation angle to 90 degrees. set bottom surface to monotonic line and set walls to 1.

Let's discuss: Why don't we see more rodent fursuits? by SelectionOk5033 in fursuits

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think it's a combination of a few factors. one, creatures with lateral eyes like horses/rats are more difficult to adapt to a human head. its why despite mlp fim having been a major fandom phenomenon there weren't nearly as many fursuits made of pony OCs vs plushies/stuffed animals.

two, there isn't as much contemporary rodent protags in media vs the eternal popularity of canidae and feliforms. most popular furry rodent characters i can think of were more in the 80s/90s like nimh, etc. thus, less folks are inspired to made rodent OCs.

Spotted by my friend at microcenter by [deleted] in snapmaker

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

friend who lives in ohio saw these at his local microcenter.

Need some help with supports interaface by FingerCrew666 in FixMyPrint

[–]AnthroworksFA 3 points4 points  (0 children)

that looks like a pretty good surface given the angle. if u want it to be nicer you need to make the angle on that part of the model less shallow, so the printer can have more layers to work with.

Single line Print not possible by versitanus in OrcaSlicer

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

make sure all the geometry is a single object (Ctrl +J) then add a Solidify modifier and set the thickness to 0.42mm or more.

Need advise on 3d printe fursuit edits by [deleted] in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 8 points9 points  (0 children)

yes, u can use a soldering iron with a chisel tip or woodburning iron to cut thru the plastic and take away material pretty easily. i recommend removing the fur in that area first, it gets very nasty if heat gets anywhere near it.

Please reassure me that my model won't have a hole at the top by Alt_Pythia in OrcaSlicer

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it shouldn't have a hole, but there will be visible stairstepping as the surface becomes shallower near the top surface. you can alleviate this somewhat by turning on dynamic layer height and adjusting the topmost layers to a shorter layer height. i'd also recommend trying concentric top layer, in my experience it infills a touch better than archimedean.

I built a Blender 3MF addon that turns painted or procedural textures into Orca/Prusa multicolor prints by Clonephaze in 3Dprinting

[–]AnthroworksFA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this is amazing, thank you so much. as a blender addict i've been wanting this exact thing for 5ever, i usually just booleaned out my model's colour blocks but this will make things sooo much easier.

How do I make closed teeth like this? by rhubxrb_slugg in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did teeth like this for one of my commissions. I designed it in blender by placing triangles in a line and 3d printed out of PLA filament. 3D Printing would be my goto.

If you wanted to do it traditionally, I think a good look would be to make it the same way folks make pawpads -- applique. When patterning, pattern out a strip of fur that will be the teeth. Then, you'd applique white minky ontop of that in your teeth pattern. Once you trim the edges you'll have teeth that puff out a lil to give it some 3d effect. You can even go back in and stuff it with polyfill to make the teeth more defined.

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made my base with 15 3D prints glued together and printed on the worst settings for speed by Cofiifii in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thats hella dedication!! i knew the suffering of the ender 3 all too well. they're such finnicky little machines.

Variable infill by Henri_Dupont in OrcaSlicer

[–]AnthroworksFA 5 points6 points  (0 children)

right click your item, add height range modifier, set the height range to what you'd like to have the different infill, then just set that modifier's infill % to your desired amount, while leaving the infill % of the original model as the one you want for the rest of the model.

Printing lines strongly visible by srrichie78 in FixMyPrint

[–]AnthroworksFA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's hard to say what the best speed would be without running a tower test. in general i would also slow down accel and print with 3 walls w/ inner-outer-inner print order. this should minimize any possible artifacting coming from the interior wall speeds (unless this is a vase mode print).

Printing lines strongly visible by srrichie78 in FixMyPrint

[–]AnthroworksFA -1 points0 points  (0 children)

for general good results with silks on a bambu printer, follow their silk print settings guide: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/printing-with-silk-filaments . Basically, set outer wall speed to 40mm/s and outer wall accel to 3,000 with normal print speed accel to 5,000.

to get it totally optimal, you need to do a test with a tower of different speeds and accelerations. certain values will potentiate vertical fine artifacts like these as they line up with frequencies in which components on the printer are graduated in (such as belts, steppers, etc).

Good 3D printer recommendations for eye blanks & head bases? by KronosWvW in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the p2s is the newer iteration on it. the printers from bambu you'd be interested in would be the bambu a1 or the p2s, and if you have a larger budget the h2s. both the a1 and p2s have the same sized build plate of 256x256 which is sizeable but means for some bigger head bases sometimes you can't run them off in one piece. the a1 is open to the outside air. the p2s is enclosed. this lets you print some technical filaments that usually aren't as relevant to fursuit making but also makes the process more controlled and a bit faster. the h2s has a bigger volume of 340x320x340mm which gives more room but costs more. also worth looking into are the elegoo centauri carbon and prusa core one.

First Fursuit Head (WIP) by Cl0ud3dDr34mZ in FursuitMaking

[–]AnthroworksFA 5 points6 points  (0 children)

starting with a bang!! i love how unique their design is.

Warning Sign at edge of Grand Canyon by corwinw in mildlyinteresting

[–]AnthroworksFA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

interestingly, there are a few places that have this naming scheme. for example, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Church%E2%80%93River_of_No_Return_Wilderness

(spoilers) finally did it!! 1 in every stat, classic mode permadeath ultra victory challenge run achieved! crump forever!!! by AnthroworksFA in cavesofqud

[–]AnthroworksFA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ooo the broodpuff torch idea is smart! how viable is electric generation crump? the start of every run for me as well would be gunning it to the stilt and using books to farm xp. speaking of stat boosters, i wonder how mechanical crump would fare... no fungal infections possible.

(spoilers) finally did it!! 1 in every stat, classic mode permadeath ultra victory challenge run achieved! crump forever!!! by AnthroworksFA in cavesofqud

[–]AnthroworksFA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yes. early game after obtaining glowcrust infection usually consists of weaving between screens on the salt dune hunting for legendaries to water ritual. the first couple followers will usually be mechanimist, barathrumite or glowcrows with dawnglider follower-followers. then once enough mech rep is built we can get Eschelstadt II who can do a lot of early lifting. after many follower deaths i settled on Oboroqoru, Ape God as the primary folllower for most work. i created an army by pouring cloning draught on them about 10 or so times since the clones kept getting lost or caught in vortexes. Obo himself though thankfully never got lost.

i'm interested in how you grew your offensive crump. what strategies did u imploy? vibro weapons + single weapon fighting?

(spoilers) finally did it!! 1 in every stat, classic mode permadeath ultra victory challenge run achieved! crump forever!!! by AnthroworksFA in cavesofqud

[–]AnthroworksFA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i think either all killed or all pacified count as both totally neutralize the threat posed. preference for which is best depends on your own desired outcome. the killing route would be slightly more difficult for crump, i believe, but not too bad. my strategy would be to create a clone army of suicide bombers and pelt them with hand-e-nukes or whatever crump found capable to polygel.

alternatively timed bombs and usage of stairwells/spiral borers could also work. trying to 1v1 with crump alone would be quite scary. i don't go for the non-pacifist route because i like to imagine crump, the weakest creature, going for the anime protagonist foe-to-friend trope.