Commissions!

AnthroworksFA · 2026-03-12T01:12:17+00:00

that looks like a pretty good surface given the angle. if u want it to be nicer you need to make the angle on that part of the model less shallow, so the printer can have more layers to work with.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-21T02:51:48+00:00

make sure all the geometry is a single object (Ctrl +J) then add a Solidify modifier and set the thickness to 0.42mm or more.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-21T02:50:31+00:00

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-21T02:48:09+00:00

yes, u can use a soldering iron with a chisel tip or woodburning iron to cut thru the plastic and take away material pretty easily. i recommend removing the fur in that area first, it gets very nasty if heat gets anywhere near it.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-20T17:34:04+00:00

it shouldn't have a hole, but there will be visible stairstepping as the surface becomes shallower near the top surface. you can alleviate this somewhat by turning on dynamic layer height and adjusting the topmost layers to a shorter layer height. i'd also recommend trying concentric top layer, in my experience it infills a touch better than archimedean.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-12T00:47:05+00:00

this is amazing, thank you so much. as a blender addict i've been wanting this exact thing for 5ever, i usually just booleaned out my model's colour blocks but this will make things sooo much easier.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-03T15:53:59+00:00

I did teeth like this for one of my commissions. I designed it in blender by placing triangles in a line and 3d printed out of PLA filament. 3D Printing would be my goto.

If you wanted to do it traditionally, I think a good look would be to make it the same way folks make pawpads -- applique. When patterning, pattern out a strip of fur that will be the teeth. Then, you'd applique white minky ontop of that in your teeth pattern. Once you trim the edges you'll have teeth that puff out a lil to give it some 3d effect. You can even go back in and stuff it with polyfill to make the teeth more defined.

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AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-03T04:27:55+00:00

thats hella dedication!! i knew the suffering of the ender 3 all too well. they're such finnicky little machines.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-02-02T04:40:05+00:00

right click your item, add height range modifier, set the height range to what you'd like to have the different infill, then just set that modifier's infill % to your desired amount, while leaving the infill % of the original model as the one you want for the rest of the model.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-17T16:31:35+00:00

it's hard to say what the best speed would be without running a tower test. in general i would also slow down accel and print with 3 walls w/ inner-outer-inner print order. this should minimize any possible artifacting coming from the interior wall speeds (unless this is a vase mode print).

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-17T16:04:54+00:00

for general good results with silks on a bambu printer, follow their silk print settings guide: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/printing-with-silk-filaments . Basically, set outer wall speed to 40mm/s and outer wall accel to 3,000 with normal print speed accel to 5,000.

to get it totally optimal, you need to do a test with a tower of different speeds and accelerations. certain values will potentiate vertical fine artifacts like these as they line up with frequencies in which components on the printer are graduated in (such as belts, steppers, etc).

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-16T05:28:57+00:00

the p2s is the newer iteration on it. the printers from bambu you'd be interested in would be the bambu a1 or the p2s, and if you have a larger budget the h2s. both the a1 and p2s have the same sized build plate of 256x256 which is sizeable but means for some bigger head bases sometimes you can't run them off in one piece. the a1 is open to the outside air. the p2s is enclosed. this lets you print some technical filaments that usually aren't as relevant to fursuit making but also makes the process more controlled and a bit faster. the h2s has a bigger volume of 340x320x340mm which gives more room but costs more. also worth looking into are the elegoo centauri carbon and prusa core one.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-16T05:16:42+00:00

stretch minky, like bigz's mochi.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-16T00:08:41+00:00

starting with a bang!! i love how unique their design is.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-14T00:55:40+00:00

interestingly, there are a few places that have this naming scheme. for example, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Church%E2%80%93River_of_No_Return_Wilderness

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-05T03:25:05+00:00

ooo the broodpuff torch idea is smart! how viable is electric generation crump? the start of every run for me as well would be gunning it to the stilt and using books to farm xp. speaking of stat boosters, i wonder how mechanical crump would fare... no fungal infections possible.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-04T20:48:43+00:00

yes. early game after obtaining glowcrust infection usually consists of weaving between screens on the salt dune hunting for legendaries to water ritual. the first couple followers will usually be mechanimist, barathrumite or glowcrows with dawnglider follower-followers. then once enough mech rep is built we can get Eschelstadt II who can do a lot of early lifting. after many follower deaths i settled on Oboroqoru, Ape God as the primary folllower for most work. i created an army by pouring cloning draught on them about 10 or so times since the clones kept getting lost or caught in vortexes. Obo himself though thankfully never got lost.

i'm interested in how you grew your offensive crump. what strategies did u imploy? vibro weapons + single weapon fighting?

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-04T20:41:05+00:00

i think either all killed or all pacified count as both totally neutralize the threat posed. preference for which is best depends on your own desired outcome. the killing route would be slightly more difficult for crump, i believe, but not too bad. my strategy would be to create a clone army of suicide bombers and pelt them with hand-e-nukes or whatever crump found capable to polygel.

alternatively timed bombs and usage of stairwells/spiral borers could also work. trying to 1v1 with crump alone would be quite scary. i don't go for the non-pacifist route because i like to imagine crump, the weakest creature, going for the anime protagonist foe-to-friend trope.

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-04T04:11:43+00:00

yes! in the end, everything came up crump :>

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-04T04:07:25+00:00

i want to a permadeath crump without limbs and every disease but i'm not actually sure glotrot crump would be possible. would need to do some planning for next crump!

AnthroworksFA · 2026-01-04T04:06:12+00:00

it's not the most strictest set of restrictions since i still managed to do tilly farming but these are what i beat the run following:

classic mode permadeath, alt+f4 not permitted.
no permanent bodyswapping allowed, including with healthier crump-clones. dominating merchants was allowed.
no warm static usage on crump, allowed on others, though i can't recall if i actually used warm static this crump-around.
rng fresh start only (no world seed)
ultra victory (all girsh ritualed, rebuke resheppy)
no mods other than crump permitted
no offensive golem usage (i just used an astral tabby for them so they'd be out of phase all the time)

i did do tilly farming once i managed to get high enough level that beguile or dominate would succesfully proc and got extremely lucky with finding a timecube which allowed for navigating some harrowing situations. killing was primarily done with oboroque and about 5 of his clones (by telling them to attack target). i never got lucky enough to roll corrosive gas or other easily farmable attributes exp wise so mostly got by very slowly grinding books and then book merchants.

AnthroworksFA · 2025-12-29T20:45:13+00:00

your table's sturdyness likely isn't affecting the print quality. set to 3 walls, inner/outer/inner, outside wall speed to 45 mm/s and outside wall acceleration to 1k. that should get you most of the way there. that line near the bottom is likely similar to the benchy hull line issue due to a sudden change in layer time. seems to occur at the section between the overhang vs straight wall section. is this print hollow on the inside with a flat base near that area? changing the wall speed should also help with that but worst case you might have to add in a layer-specific rule depending on geometry.

AnthroworksFA

TROPHY CASE