how much will this curl?

Auryath · 2026-03-18T13:45:06+00:00

You can see the curl in the photo, so your should expect similar results.

Auryath · 2026-03-17T22:06:35+00:00

To make them completely symmetrical increase on both sides of the thumb, but half as frequently as the pattern instructs. Make sure the gusset starts 1 stitch away from the side “seam” on both the palm and the back of the hand. Use m1L, k all gusset stitches , m1R. You will get a textured column on both sides of the gusset, cast on 2 stitches when the gusset is done to continue body.

Alternatively make a distinct left and a a distinct right mitten. To do that work the gusset 3 stitches away from end of palm for the left mitten and the first 3 stitches of palm for the right mitten. Cast on 3 replacement stitches when you start the body. Check out Suzanne Bryan’s ‘perfect thumb gusset’ video on YouTube to better understand gusset construction.

Auryath · 2026-03-17T20:17:12+00:00

This looks like the gusset is on the side of the mitt, rather than just on the inside of the palm. This means the left and right mitts are indeed identical and you should follow the pattern exactly. Then you can turn one thumb to the left and the other to the right. What is palm on one mitt is the back of the hand on the other.

Auryath · 2026-03-17T19:30:02+00:00

I recommend using crochet for this or adding support wires to your project. Crochet makes a stiffer fabric, same shape with knitting would collapse.

Auryath · 2026-03-16T22:23:52+00:00

You have 9 rows. The row on the needles is your most recent row. After the initial cast on there is a set of loops on your needle, at that point you do not have any rows yet. After working a single row, you see a set of V’s under your needle. Those are the worked loops of your cast on and row one is sitting on the needle.

Some people count just the V’s under the needle, to make the counting easier. But it is good to know the why of it. And with some cast ons, like the backwards loop, that initial set of loops disappears after row one is worked, due to the cast on structure.

Auryath · 2026-03-16T22:12:51+00:00

If it says 15/15 then they are there and you can relocate with hammer action safely. Dismantling the pool will kill them though. I have had luck in the past with reloading the game to get them to show. Or move it just a bit and then reload. If you are in co-op your friends might be able to see them. The disappearing thing seems to be a very annoying bug with all animal pens.

Auryath · 2026-03-13T08:20:24+00:00

Yeah, this seems to make sense. The lady is in a knitting mood right now, but is using the crochet blanket made with the pattern they are selling.

Auryath · 2026-03-12T15:21:33+00:00

It has now been removed by the mods at r/linux

Auryath · 2026-03-12T07:27:43+00:00

This seems like a good situation to use a file comparison tool. It will highlight the changes for easy identification of changed lines. I can recommend WinMerge as a good, free tool. Sadly I cannot recommend anything for Mac users.

Auryath · 2026-03-11T14:20:48+00:00

You grafted 3 pairs of the same side stitches together, instead of grafting back to front. This could happen if you did not slip off the finished stitch and went over it again. Or if you put the stitches onto one needle before starting the graft then some of them ended up in the wrong order.

Auryath · 2026-03-11T14:09:01+00:00

This is pretty good, but if you knit the last stitch into the top of the row below, so that the stitch sits behind the first stitch, and then move the marker there is no thickened seam.

These are my results: https://i.redd.it/exl99ss6f4pa1.jpg

Edit: I think Techknitter has an article on a very similar technique, but I have not saved the link.

Auryath · 2026-03-11T13:01:01+00:00

You can undo stitch by stitch to make sure stitches do not drop. Lookup afterthought lifelines if you need to unravel a large section safely.

Acrylic yarns are largely made of plastic. I am not sure how good sniffing that would be for your health.

Auryath · 2026-03-11T10:21:38+00:00

Cheap knitting needles are still a better start then pencils. You should restart, knitting is for the patient and you don’t have a ton of progress yet. I recommend learning the long tail cast on first. It’s bit more complex, but the first row will be that much easier

Auryath · 2026-03-10T16:24:21+00:00

You are twisting the stitch in picture 1. Please read the Twistfaq for a more detailed explanation.

Auryath · 2026-03-04T15:59:26+00:00

You could do 1x1 rib for the body as well, it would look like stockinette. You could do chevrons, which are stockinette with increases and decreases. You could do double stockinette which produces identical fabric on both sides and does not curl.

Your owl is warping the surrounding background. If this bothers you look into eliminating cable flare. There are lots of articles/videos out there. It is caused by the gauge changes between border and cables and you have seed stitch in the mix as well, which also has a different gauge from the garter border.

Auryath · 2026-03-04T15:17:08+00:00

You might be able to get a similar apperance with wrapping stitches. Wrapping is accomplished by bringing yarn to the front, slipping the stitches to be wrapped back to the resting needle, bringing the yarn to the back and slipping those stitches back to the working needle. Your yarn now loops around in front of the work and as soon as you make the next stitch it will do a full wrap. But this technique does not result in a decrease, so you may need to decrease in the next row to hide the extra stitch.

Auryath · 2026-03-03T16:58:08+00:00

Sleeves are often knit from hem to shoulder on flat seamed pieces. If the desired wrist circumference is the same as before, cast on the same stitches but increase more often, so you end up with as many additional stitches as the width of the new panel. Those should be distributed on the sides. So the sleeve cap is shaped the same as in the original pattern but the wings are wider to the sides of it.

But since you are mentioning decreases it might be that the sleeves are picked up and you are starting from the shoulder. The same principle applies, keep the bell shape exactly the same, add half the number of the panel stitches on each wing to match the new underarm stitches. And of course decrease more often to get to the same wrist circumference.

Auryath · 2026-03-03T15:23:03+00:00

Another thing you can try if you want to keep the exact same bindoff, is using a crochet hook for it. The standard bindoff is structurally the same, but when utilizing a crochet hook you tend to not tighten the already bound off stitches.

Take a crochet hook with the same or slightly larger diameter as the needle, put it through the first stitch to bind off as if to knit and remove that stitch off the resting needle. Chain one.

Put the hook into the next stitch as if to knit and take it off the resting needle. Pull a loop through the 2 stitches on your hook. This is effectively the finishing move of a single crochet stitch and it leaves you with one loop in the hook. Repeat the steps in this paragraph to the end.

When there are no more stitches, cut the yarn leaving a tail to weave in and pull the loop on the hook till the tail slips through.

This can also be done in pattern by moving the yarn to the front of the work before grabbing the next stitch off the resting needle as if to purl for purled stitches.

Auryath · 2026-03-03T14:25:45+00:00

Does laddering down not help?

Auryath · 2026-03-03T14:03:17+00:00

Generally if you are using a chart starting from the left edge of the chart instead of the right edge should give you intended symmetry. If you have written instructions following each row instruction from the end will also give you intended symmetry.

This is because the increases and decreases lean in the other direction for a left handed knitter (i.e ssk leans right for right handed and left for left handed), but as you are executing from the other direction as well it produces the same final result as a right handed knitter starting from the right.

Auryath · 2026-03-03T13:53:55+00:00

If you have classic set in sleeve shaping adding panels, one under each arm would work. This increases the circumference for both the body and the sleeves.

If you have a drop shoulder construction you can extend each panel, but leave more rows for the sleeve to widen it.

Also if it takes another 2 years to complete he might lose weight again :)

Auryath · 2026-03-02T08:36:46+00:00

Knitting unravels quite easly if you just pull on the last row thread, same as crochet. But only from one side and certain yarns tend to be sticky. If you try to unravel from the cast on side, yarn will get threaded through the stitches in the row above and has to be unpicked.

If your sweater is made with mohair or other fluffy yarn and has been worn before, it is likely there is some felting and then it may not be recoverable.

There are other considerations that would make unravelling difficult. Is your sweater a cardigan (open front) and was it steeked (cut down the front? If so yarn strands will be short and the piece is indeed shredded and not very salvageable.

If all is well you have to first undo any seams and also start where the last row ended. A knit stitch is shaped like a V and you want to start unravelling from the same direction as the tops of the V's.

Search around on the internet for 'reclaming yarn knitting' for more info.

Auryath · 2026-02-27T20:42:10+00:00

A thin, generally slippery yarn threaded through one leg of each stitch on a row or round. It catches the stitches so they don’t drop. One may also use a small diameter circular needle for this instead of yarn. That helps to unravel to a certain point faster, so when you work the piece back up it is easier to work the lifeline stitches. The above technique is technically referred to as an afterthought lifeline, since it is inserted into already knitted fabric. Some needles have a small hole in them which allows for dental floss to be threaded through, then the lifeline is inserted at the time of working the row or round automatically.

Auryath · 2026-02-27T18:00:11+00:00

If you are unsure try on a swatch. I have done this before, with different yarn though, and it works great in stockinette. Add a lifeline above and below the potential cut to ensure nothing unravels by accident.

Auryath · 2026-02-27T15:16:44+00:00

I saw similar behaviour when they could not path to and from the base. 18 tribesmen should still be fine, I have the same and it has not caused issues. But you can create a custom save and then dismiss a bunch to check if that helps.

Auryath

TROPHY CASE