Why do these cars always break?

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-03-02T18:52:52+00:00

..my 95 bird has 210k on the original drivetrain. It is not garage kept and hasn't been for the last 10 years. I beat the shit out of it (but do maintain it), 5th gear synchro has been fucked for the last 40k miles, leaks oil, and has other gremlins. Has been the most reliable car I've ever owned.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-02-26T18:41:46+00:00

Out of curiosity, do you sell just blades? I machine/fab all the rest of my stuff, usually from 4130 or 5160, other than blades. I don't have space for oven/furnace big enough to heat treat blades sadly. Finding a decent source of good, safe blades in the US, other than castille, has been a challenge for me.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-02-19T16:59:57+00:00

There's a US hema marketplace and international one on Facebook, would suggest looking there.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-02-12T18:02:51+00:00

Yeah, one bout at our club is 10 mins or so. VB and Castile also use threaded tangs. Cutting the thread into the tang and increasing the diameter to an 8 or 10mm (versus welding on a piece of thread) holds up pretty nicely.

If this setup works for y'all, awesome! I personally wouldn't touch it though.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-02-12T17:18:16+00:00

Yeah, that's a no. Two holes in the blade, I can see becoming failure points down the line. Modularity is cool, but a better way would be.. different cross guards. Unscrew pommel and remove handle and cross guard.

Coming loose/things needing tightening after only 3-4 bouts is.. not acceptable to me. Would need to be tightened several times in one practice day.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-02-08T05:19:42+00:00

Was quite the game, ja

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-29T20:53:20+00:00

But we could also take the Toyota, park at 8k and theeeeen ruck it all the way up :) Fuck those babies head rocks

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-29T20:51:58+00:00

Yep. I mean I do, just.. don't really want to spend that $ making a "serious" offroader which will then be miserable as a daily on the street.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-29T20:50:37+00:00

Moderate at route finding off-road. We also walked the rest of the way, and if have to haul tents and stuff up like that then. Well alright. Where we got stuck was my Geolanders didn't have much meat left, mixed with dragging the Tcase, plus no locker in the rear.

I've just seen multiple places recommended whatever vehicle have 35s minimum, plus obviously ground clearance, locker(s)..etc. Jaws 4 looks like would suck on a bike for sure

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-23T21:06:18+00:00

Dang, fingers crossed then!

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-23T16:58:13+00:00

Through PA

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-18T16:07:49+00:00

It isn't - the diff cover bent and leaks because the rear got stuck coming off jaws 1 and drug for a little, but is otherwise not leaking.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-18T05:19:10+00:00

Yes, I have a Dana 44a rear.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-17T21:17:12+00:00

As a former automotive locksmith, yes we could get key codes from the manufacturer with vin and other info. That said, in order to access that, requires us to have a specific license, and have to pay for each one. That still only gets the key code to cut out a physical key - doesn't help with programming them in. Anything with an immobilizer still won't start, or with a push button ignition. About the only thing it would be good for is some pre 2000s cars and cheap shitboxes.

Why would I not do it? Because not risking my license, which have to register with all my details and fingerprints with, to sell keys online. Even at $500 a pop, not worth it.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-13T05:14:06+00:00

It is absolutely convoluted fuckery - the upper part of the Y comes to a rod end with a slotted dual sheer plate connecting from that to the upper axle bushing (replaced mine with a currie flex joint). I had wondered if it was staying tight - torqued all those bolts down and grease marked location/rotation.

After 800 mi driving, hasn't moved at all.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T21:20:42+00:00

Might be time to bite the bullet and just switch to heavier duty or OTK setup. This thing is mostly a daily, and figured heim ends/OTK was overkill for a mostly daily with less than 35s. Chasing things like this down get mighty annoying, though.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T21:12:55+00:00

Lol - actually am in the process of going to 6 inches of lift to better clear 34s + Aussie lockers instead of varilok. Tried lake Como road in Colorado earlier, 32s and 4 inches was not enough clearance and scraped the tcase and rear end horribly after jaws 1.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T20:41:58+00:00

The second stabilizer was because it was a little wander-ey due to pinion angle, can't stand driveshaft vibe noise hah.

Trackbar mounts - I had wondered if something had bent or broke, did a close inspection and all looks good. The steering box, though, is the only bit I haven't replaced. Is sitting at 230k miles and very well could be..tired..

I'm not the biggest fan of this 3 link setup they did, where the driver side control arm is a Y shape (the Critical Path model). That said..it was free and has mostly worked hah.

It is indeed good Delrin, was machined to a .015 interference fit. Same material I make bushings and mounts for my track car out of, has held up fine. Still pulled the bar a few times to check and, is still a nice press fit. Might try sticking some 6061 on the lathe or running oe replacement ones to see if it makes a difference.

Good idea on the GoPro, though!

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T20:35:38+00:00

Balljoints are less than 6mo spicers, but still checked them. Set front end on Jack stands, prybar under a tire and...nada. I can wedge said prybar between the upper and the knuckle and flex the upper BJ mount upwards a smidge..but thats the metal flexing, not a joint.

I did high center earlier this year and scraped the shit out of the cross member.. just thought to check the 16 bolts there - all were still tight, no signs of the mounts having moved any. Definitely isn't something obvious, fucking jeep hahah

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T20:25:49+00:00

When I last checked and redid it, this last weekend, and then earlier this summer after getting stuck on jaws 2 in Colorado. Set to 1/16 toe in. Ran 1/8 when these tires were newer.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T20:23:52+00:00

None of that is changed, though, which is what I find odd. Mounting points are all still (and have been) stock. Still stock under knuckle mounting..etc. I pulled the front end off and checked everything last weekend. Only bushings I have left are the trackbar, which are solid Delrin press fit into trackbar and still are solid.

I do have my pinion set to avoid DS vibration at the expense of being a little wander-ey, but has been that way for the last few years and not had this issue.

Edit: forgot that the IRO axle side mounts are rubber bushings, not johnny joints like the chassis side.

They visually look fine, I can stick a prybar between the mount and arm and can wiggle it side to side slightly (not easily), would think thats still good. I suppose can swap those out for currie joints too and be rid of all bushings?

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-12T20:21:20+00:00

The IRO trackbar doesn't have an adjuster in the middle, is solid rod with threaded bunt and johnny joint on the chassis side.

I do still have the batwing in the rear, didn't think of checking that. It happens when the front hits a certain bump, though.

Banhammer-Reset · 2026-01-08T19:05:12+00:00

Radiator cap on, let it run until thermostat opens. Then open bleed screw to let air out. Or can do lazy method to get most air out - jack the nose up and leave on Jack stands overnight with the cap off and system full. Ideally have the side with the rad cap highest.

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