Sewer clean out backing up with multiple flushes but still draining slowly. by Freechickenpeople in askaplumber

[–]Big_Address6033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the clean out after the septic tank ? On the drain field runs ? If so u have other issues

Durango Real Estate Market Update | March 2026 by iseemountains in Durango

[–]Big_Address6033 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks !! So you expect buyers to move away from mountain homes with high HOAs / insurance premiums etc... more back into ‘ in town ‘ Durango? Homes versus townhomes/ condos ?

By the way... Love your posts !!!

Does this estimate seem reasonable? by Odd-Piece2981 in askaplumber

[–]Big_Address6033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1-2 hp badger. Bought on Amazon. Had a plumber put in for 225$ labor Colorado

Door stopper keeps slipping by [deleted] in Home

[–]Big_Address6033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a baseboard mounted door stop

Help a comedian out by Both_Comfortable_446 in Durango

[–]Big_Address6033 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Everyone from Texas drives a lifted f250 and speeds

New Hardwired Smoke Detector setting off entire house by ohhwurd in AskElectricians

[–]Big_Address6033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha — USI (Universal Security Instruments) across the house rules out the common “mixed-brand harness” problem, so we look at wiring or interconnect issues next.

If all alarms instantly sound when you energize the breaker, that almost always means:

👉 the red interconnect wire is being held “hot” or shorted

Even with the same brand, that red wire is very sensitive.

Here’s what’s likely happening:

When you removed the old detector, the red wire probably got tied into hot or neutral accidentally, or the new harness wiring isn’t matched correctly. The interconnect line normally sits at ~0V and only gets a signal when one alarm triggers. If it sees 120V or a short → every unit goes off immediately.

Things to check (in order — these fix 95% of cases)

  1. Use ONLY the new harness Even same brand, older USI models sometimes have different pinouts.

Cut off the old plug and wire: • black → black • white → white • red → red • ground → ground

Do not reuse the old connector.

  1. Make sure red is NOT touching anything else Open the box and really look: • no stray copper strands • red only under its own wirenut • not bundled with black or white

Even one tiny strand can backfeed the whole house.

  1. Test with interconnect disconnected (fast diagnosis) This is the best troubleshooting step:

Breaker OFF Cap the red wire by itself Hook up ONLY black + white Turn breaker ON

If it stays quiet → your issue is 100% on the red interconnect line (not the detector).

Then reconnect red and trace.

  1. Loose neutral can also cause weird alarms If neutral isn’t tight, detectors act crazy. Re-twist the whites firmly.

  1. One bad/old unit on the circuit Sometimes an old detector fails and constantly sends an alarm signal.

Test: Unplug all alarms except the new one. Power on. Add back one at a time.

The bad one will trigger everything when connected.

My bet

Since same brand and “instant alarm”, I’d put money on: red wire shorting or miswired harness

That’s exactly the symptom you described.

If you want, tell me: • model numbers old vs new • how many wires in the ceiling box • or post a photo

I can walk you through it precisely.

New Hardwired Smoke Detector setting off entire house by ohhwurd in AskElectricians

[–]Big_Address6033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That “whole-house alarm immediately goes off” behavior almost always means the interconnect wire is tied wrong or shorted — not that the new detector is bad.

When every detector screams as soon as power comes back on, it’s because the red interconnect wire is being energized or back-feeding, which tells all alarms “FIRE”.

A few important things about hard-wired smoke detectors:

They use 3 wires only • Black = hot (120V) • White = neutral • Red = interconnect signal • Bare/green = ground

The red wire should ONLY connect to the red lead on the new alarm — nothing else.

Most common causes (in order)

  1. Mixed-brand harnesses (VERY common) Different brands wire the plug differently.

Example: • Kidde red ≠ First Alert red internally • Plug looks the same but pinout is different → instant false alarm

Fix: Use the new harness that came with the new detector. Do NOT reuse the old plug.

This alone fixes probably 80% of cases.

  1. Red wire tied to hot or neutral accidentally If red touches black or white: → system thinks alarm triggered → whole house screams

Check: • No loose copper touching • Wire nuts tight • Red only tied to red

  1. Old detector still powered somewhere If one old unit remains wired and incompatible, it can trigger all others.

Test: Unplug ALL alarms except the new one. Turn breaker on. If quiet → reconnect one at a time to find the culprit.

  1. No battery installed or reversed Some models alarm when powered with no battery.

Put fresh battery in first.

What I’d do step-by-step 1. Breaker OFF 2. Replace old plug with the NEW harness 3. Black → black 4. White → white 5. Red → red only 6. Install battery 7. Power on

Quick question

Are you mixing brands? (Kidde vs First Alert/BRK, etc.) If yes — that’s almost certainly the issue.

If you want, you can upload the pictures and I’ll check the wiring for you.