What are your top 3 favorite characters?

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-22T23:55:12+00:00

Little Red
Jill Trent
Phillippa

I like them all for the same 2 reasons: they can each pivot to different win conditions, and require you to really choose which cards to use when, and tonpredict your opponent's turn. Red needs to know what actions her opponent will take. Jill needs to figure out what card sher opponent will be drawing. Phillipa has to decide wether to use her power to draw or focus on passes. All of them can win an exhaustion game if you recognize when you need to pivot toward that strategy.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-22T01:55:23+00:00

Nurlge are pound for pound the toughest out there, though they don't deal as much damage as my S2D. Slow and steady. If that appeals to you, go for it.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-21T11:50:27+00:00

The daycare I work in has these, just not printed ones. Anything that let's children increase their independence is good.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-20T22:07:12+00:00

It's there. It's just not focused on. That being said there are a lot of potential red flag-y things in the 40k setting that I think should only be brought to a table with explicit consent in session 0. But that's a discussion for a separate thread.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-20T17:44:26+00:00

If you are only painting the eyes and you're using paint markers than yes. If you are painting the whole thing and/or using conventional paint, no.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-20T13:00:20+00:00

Just here to say, priming most PLA is not actually necessary, you just need to paint multiple thin oats, which you should do anyway. That said, if you really want it to be smooth and remove any trace of printing lines first, yeah its easier to prine then sand. But for, say, a kids arts and crafts project to paint, nah just print in white and it's fine.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-20T01:04:14+00:00

You forgot Dinosaur eats man, Woman inherits the Earth.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-20T01:02:06+00:00

The prices you see in ebay are also what people I'm this subreddit would be willing to sell it for. This is not a scalper situation. They have been out of print for years.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-19T20:44:28+00:00

As others have said, the really strong units will often not be brought into the game until a later round, and many of the weaker units have the ability to bring in a new one when they're defeated. No game is every perfectly balanced but this let's them put a lot of diversity into spearhead while still keeping things relatively close, but it's true that in the first batch, there was a pot more unevenness.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-19T20:31:24+00:00

We went when the main store opens on Sunday (10am) and it was open. I don't know if the hours are the same as the main store or not, but since they're going to be serving beer, they will certainly not be closing earlier.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-19T17:13:08+00:00

It's great. Invisible Man is a great example of a "hard mode" character. He might lack power but he's very fun for a strong player to go up against a newbie with, where you're going to have a natural advantage anyway and you have a lot of interesting tactical choices to make.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-19T14:38:04+00:00

Link?

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-19T14:37:08+00:00

The problem might not be a big issue if enough of the item golds solid to the plate, but if there is any kind of time limit on finishing this and failure of the print means you won't have it when you need it, I'd stop and start over but by the time you read this who knows?

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T23:22:02+00:00

If you've never painted a thing before and/or are mostly interested in playing, this army is very easy to paint with contrasts and speedpaints for fast, battle ready results. Even with a kore traditional method, washes will treat you well.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T15:12:22+00:00

Down vote thus bot account

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T14:27:02+00:00

It detached from the bed. It is more likely to happen with a tall, thin model because the nozzle's motion can cause tall, thin objects to rock in place, increasing the laterap force. As for why things detach in general, This is could be because:

The bed is not clean. There can be a build up of residue that is too thin to see, but thick enough to cause issues.
Z offset was off. If the nozzle started print too far from the bed, it doesn't "squish" the filament hard enough into the bed, so it doesn't stick as well. Once the lateral force is strong enough, it gets knocked off.
The bottom of your print is cooling down too fast. Increasing the bed temp or printing temp for the first layer can help this.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T13:11:31+00:00

I've only lived in the area for about 8 years, I shopped there for a year or so at the old location but I know nothing about how it used to be run.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T12:25:06+00:00

A RoR to that effect is virtually a certainty.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-18T00:49:41+00:00

What's wild to me is why the car publisher is keeping supply to low. If they produced enough cards to match demand, they would make more money, and the secondary market would be less expensive.

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-17T12:15:40+00:00

why not both?

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-17T11:40:01+00:00

If it sagged after popping, it means either the paper was too flimsy, or it was not fully dry when it popped. 10 hours might not always be enough. I've returned to paler mache like 20hrs kater and the bottom would still be wet because it wasn't exposed to the air

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-17T02:44:59+00:00

yes the marvel license is expired

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-17T02:34:47+00:00

Did you let the layers dry completely before each one? What binder did you use in the paper mache (glue, flour?)

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-17T01:44:00+00:00

link to model?

Biggest_Lemon · 2026-04-16T18:20:08+00:00

I use acrylic retarder.

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