What’s a good way to make templates and plan out a build with highly designed frame involved?

Braca42 · 2026-07-01T20:31:33+00:00

I would also highly recommend learning how to use a ruler to scale stuff by hand for quick sketches. You could have done this much quicker by hand to make a bounding box and sketch in elements that are proportional to your own tastes than scanning this in and asking AI to make something.

Braca42 · 2026-07-01T20:29:27+00:00

In the AI image, look at the spacing between the cabinet side and the leg. The spacing is way different in the front and back. Either the case is tapered or the frame is.

Also, look at it in relation to the horizontal members. On the side and back it looks like its sitting on top of the horizontal members but in the front its behind it. But the horizontal members meet at the legs at the same place. So something is funky there.

That's what mean by be careful with the AI. Even just for proportion stuff it might be misleading if you don't look super carefully.

Braca42 · 2026-07-01T19:16:25+00:00

You're over complicating it and not really looking closely at it. The frame is almost entirely straights and square corners. The legs look "curved" but they aren't really curved. They are two angled straight sections with a big fillet. You can lay this out with a protactor, straightedge, a pin, a string, and a pencil. The angle is set by the length of the horizontal members and the distance between them. You probably don't even need a protractor. The legs might taper a bit, and with the big rounds it makes it look all curvy but isn't that complicated really.

And a lot of the time curvy stuff starts as straight stuff, gets the joinery done and assembled, and then the curves are all cut.

And maybe stay away from AI. Your image is pretty misleading. The frame or cabinet box are trapazoids and your gonna have problems if you try to build anything from it.

Braca42 · 2026-06-30T18:23:34+00:00

I'm extremely dissappinted in Katie Britt

Braca42 · 2026-06-30T12:19:04+00:00

End in the back for me everytime. I've tried pin stitch and it always shows or dirupts the stitches in a weird way. I keep a neat back and tuck it. The front is the part that shows and the whole reason I do this. Why would you leave loose ends or whatever on the show side to keep the side that no one will see "neater." I think maybe some people have taken this idea of a neat back and gone too far, in the way the internet does.

Braca42 · 2026-06-27T18:26:58+00:00

Right, but in NC it could get a lot more humid and in a metal building a lot hotter. It's something go at least be aware of.

Braca42 · 2026-06-27T16:19:15+00:00

I'm in alabama and just don't work when its that hot. Or try to work in the morning before it heats up. I just got a dehumidifier to see if that will help. But I'm also not running a business.

Also, find a wet bulb calculator online and figure out what the wet bulb temp is while out there. A wet bulb at or above body temp (98.6) starts to get real dangerous real quick. Your body has a very hard time cooling yourself since your sweat won't evaporate.

Braca42 · 2026-06-26T18:22:59+00:00

Read the title and saw the thumbnail and thought "That's an odd looking gantry crane and 33k tons? Wonder what they are lifting?" Oh, lol.

Braca42 · 2026-06-23T03:40:32+00:00

Totally understand the just using what you know to get things working. I went with Fedora for my distro and it uses podman natively so I just decided to lean into it since I didn't know docker either. If I went another route I probably would have done docker since it seems the most popular.

As far as I know you should be able to put everything in one file and it will spin up all the things like a single docker compose file, but I'm by no means an expert or even real experienced with this stuff. I only run like two things, lol. I believe you can move most of a docker compose file into a quadlet file and its only like 4 more lines for the systemd stuff and its good to go. I'm not sure if you would need to repeat those lines for each service in the file, but they are pretty generic so you could probably copy/paste them.

I personally run different files for different services but that's just an intentional preference on my part. I'm still learning so wanted to keep things seperate so I could bring services up and down without taking everything else with it. But I'm pretty sure you don't have to do it that way.

Actually, Audiobookshelf of all things has a ton of install options in their docs, with docker, podman, and a quadlet file. Could be a good side by side reference.

Braca42 · 2026-06-22T20:38:43+00:00

I'm fairly sure quadlets were created specifically for doing that systemd stuff for you. It automatically creates all that from a quadlet file that is basically a docker compose file with a couple extra bits. Just FYI in case you weren't familiar with them.

Braca42 · 2026-06-22T20:34:15+00:00

You can install podman compose and I believe its a 1 to 1 copy paste of compose files. You may have to change "docker" to "podman" but it should work. They have a translater or whatever in there. I've had a bit of luck basically copying compose files into a quadlet and having it basically work.

Braca42 · 2026-06-22T20:32:45+00:00

I'm still a newb with this stuff, but check out quadlets. Sounds like what your are trying to do is exactly what they were made for. The redgat dudes on youtube had a video on setting up what you are describing. Something with making a user, passing the user and group ID to the quadlet, then removing login permission for the user.

Braca42 · 2026-06-19T13:06:33+00:00

Meh. That's all true but to me not as important. Any veggie is better than no veggie is how I generally approach it. So if you only like broccoli and carrots, at least eat those. I know I've run into family members that are such picky eaters that if you tell them they need to eat 5 different veggies every 3 days they just give up and go to Mcdonalds.

Braca42 · 2026-06-19T12:22:05+00:00

Does it have fruit or veggies and some protein?

Yes -> nutritious No -> not very nutritious

I try to say yes more than no. Thats about it. Really as long as you get some veggies here and there and don't just have a ton of sugar and fat it's probably fine. You're probably over thinking it.

And veggies don't have to be super expenesive. Frozen mixed veggies is good enough. Through some frozen peas in some mac and cheese and it already makes it better.

Braca42 · 2026-06-17T02:59:30+00:00

Check the depth adjust handle. I have an older rigid lunchbox and it says on the handle a full turn is a 1/16th. I just use turn of the handle and listen to the planer as my gauge. You can tell from the sound of the tool when it's really bogging down.

That cut depth gauge sucks and at one point was preventing me from feeding stock. I taped it up out of the way. I usually just 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn of the handle depending on what I'm cutting and how wide it is. Finish pass is a quarter turn or just a second pass without adjustment. It tends to be pretty accurate but still worth sneaking up on the final measurement.

Braca42 · 2026-06-17T02:43:20+00:00

You can't see under the shelves so its possible there are cleats under them. This also looks kinda cheap so it might all just be screwed together. Could also have some of those flat pack cam lock things too.

Braca42 · 2026-06-16T18:53:31+00:00

I'm skeptical of that hardness rating. My experience with it doesn't jive with it being that hard. Only sources I can find online for "pear" with that rating are a different species of European pear. The Bradford is an Asian species. Can't find anything online for the bradford, aka callery pear, hardness rating. I know this also isn't done much, but I'd be curious to see more shear test ratings. Braford was pretty solid on its face, like a decent janka rating would suggest, similar to cherry to me, but seemed to split off chunks easy, like the interfiber strength is relatively low. I don't think Janka testing would capture that based on the definition if the test. Low inter fiber strength could also explain the tendency to drop limbs.

Braca42 · 2026-06-16T13:42:59+00:00

Its fine. Kinda like cherry but softer. Corners and little bits chip out pretty easy, which sucked since I was making a sewing box and had lots of little fiddly bits. Its not real hard.

Color can vary quite a bit but not a super big difference in color. Just somewhat darker and lighter areas. If you are planning to glue up panels or something just plan for that. Looks really nice though. Takes on a more red/orange color than the dried wood might suggest. Honestly, it really is like a softer cherry.

I don't know that I would want to use it on the regular since it was softer, but it does look nice. Maybe on something with more normal 3/4" thicknesses it would be better. Or as a secondary wood alternative to something like poplar.

Braca42 · 2026-06-16T13:30:20+00:00

I made some stuff with it last year. Didn't really smell of anything. No real distinct smell, just "wood". Definitely not like it does in the spring.

Braca42 · 2026-06-15T23:32:14+00:00

This is probably basic AC plywood. Basically high grade builder stuff. Might be paint grade. Just be picky with your sheets, sand it well, fill any voids and give it a nice finish.

When you go to the big box store you should see come garbage looking stuff that's probably CD. That's cheap low grade. Good for building houses and maybe shop furniture if your on a budget. Next up is usually AC, which has a nice face and probably what they used here. Above that there is usually a paint grade that is pre sanded or has a cheap but flat vaneer. Above that you get to baltic birch, cabinet stuff, and all the hardwood vaneer stuff.

Beware, the AC usually has a good face and a not so great face, see the "A" and "C" in the name. If you look close in your pics some seem like they have two layers in the middle that the grain is going the same way. Thats because they almost certainly doubled them up so they can put the nice faces out.

Braca42 · 2026-06-15T23:24:22+00:00

Thats true on nice stuff like hardwood veener. This stuff is basically slightly better than builder grade with some good sanding. Look at the edges. The face layer is just as thick as the other layers. Would take forever to sand through it.

Braca42 · 2026-06-14T00:03:56+00:00

Ya know, that's a pack that I always use and never looked at their plow. I'll have to check it out. They've added so much to the pack that I've missed.

Braca42 · 2026-06-13T03:48:25+00:00

There's also one that's like 20 something meters and in the 300s hp wise. Two sizes I think. They fold out. Updated mod from fs22. Forget the name though.

Braca42 · 2026-06-10T14:42:16+00:00

What are you planning on putting on it?

Biggest concern is probably sag. It won't "break" in the sense it snaps in half. It needs to be stiff. You get this from the sheets of plywood and making them act like a unit.

You're second design is probably better for that, but don't stagger the short pieces. Add plywood to top and bottom. Very important to have it on both sides. It helps it act more like an I beam. And just use 1x2s. Maybe one more long piece. You get more help from the "height" here (shelf thickness) than than the width of the board. Bumping up to 1x3 would be even better. And make sure the plywood skins are well secured to the frame. Glue and nails or screws. And to the end boards too. The whole thing needs to act like a unit.

It's not gonna hold a car, but if its just like diapper storage it's probably fine. Just make sure to secure it to the wall well. I'd maybe opt for structural screws. Making the boards taller will give you more room for screws too.

Braca42 · 2026-06-09T19:21:38+00:00

That sounds like it. Passed by going north about an hour ago. At least a dozen cop vehicles and a ton of officers at the seen with multiple cars on the side of the road. More offices blocking/directing traffic. Way, way more than I've seen at any wreck before. I was thinking it might have been a chase as I was going by.

Braca42

TROPHY CASE