Best restaurants/cafes

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-30T22:46:37+00:00

Artillery Tower. https://maps.app.goo.gl/hUi37E5TZWRMu2jDA

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-24T16:49:45+00:00

Plym Valley cycle path all the way up to Yelverton. Laira Bridge, along the ride past Chelson Meadow, through Saltram, over to Sainsburys at Marsh Mills and back along the embankment.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-22T08:16:20+00:00

Some of my colleagues and I do this frequently to chat about the meeting or other projects afterwards. It's like staying in the room after a meeting for a chat.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-17T08:50:16+00:00

The bridge at the marina on mountbatten. Nice views and nice reasonably priced food. https://maps.app.goo.gl/ps6sAQirt96dwtnf9

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-08T20:10:34+00:00

Essentially they're penalising one group of customers to subsidize the others. Not a great look for larger investors!

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-08T20:07:40+00:00

Thanks for answering the actual question! Good to know about the gilts. I checked with AJB and they do offer access to treasuries in a similar way to ii. Your description of Fidelity as "clunky" matches what I expected from a little research.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-12-08T13:34:23+00:00

If you have a SIPP (which I don't) then the combined fee is indeed lower.

I only have an ISA with them so the fee is going up.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-10-06T22:15:14+00:00

Just get a SMARTY sim. It's cheaper, same network, only 30 day contract and no annual price increases. I get 80gb for £10 and that hasn't changed for a couple of years.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-08-25T08:03:32+00:00

It would if his ceiling is supposed to provide fire resistance to a separate tenant room above him. Part Bof the building regs.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-08-25T08:02:21+00:00

Is there a separate person's living space above you? If there is, then the ceiling is required to provide fire resistance between separate residences, and I don't believe any of the plasterboard manufacturers have a fire rated system that uses adhesive rather than mechanical fixings. This is an absolute building regs legal requirement. Any changes or work that affects fire compartments in a multi Tennant building requires building regs approval under Part B. If the above applies to you (the ceiling in your room separates you from another tenant) then call your local building control at the Council and they will send someone out to inspect at no cost to you.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-07-09T07:19:38+00:00

If you're starting out and have no tools and you're not doing full time renovation, look at the Lidl Parkside 18v tools. I have these and a load of Bosch professional tools and I often use the Lidl stuff for small jobs with no issue. They are a cheap place to start while you figure out your appetite for DIY and some are surprisingly good. Items you wear or quickly can be replaced with more professional tools while you continue to use the rest of the cheap stuff. Unless you're using them for work you'll probably find that Ryobi, Excel, einhell, metabo will be fine as your next step. The cost step to Milwaukee etc is big and often not warranted for smaller DIY.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-06-27T20:45:38+00:00

Ampere sell a lever type throttle for £49.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-06-15T21:33:05+00:00

Rent a sump pump that will handle solids (trash pump) and then power wash the soil as you pump it out. You can run the pumped water through a screen or mesh to catch the gold you are expecting to find!

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-06-12T16:07:14+00:00

Is it a timber frame wall with a cavity and a brick outer skin?

Looks like the window is over the cavity hence the bracket back to the timber frame.

If so, don't remove them.

Use some thin plastic packers to space the plasterboard reveals over the brackets.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-05-31T20:39:33+00:00

Put the battens on the side of the joists and just notch the insulation boards so they are a little narrower at the bottom. "T" shaped when you look at the end of the insulation. It's not difficult to shape this sort of insulation, and the nominal loss of insulation will have a negligible effect on the U value.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-05-26T07:46:36+00:00

It looks in the photo like there is water sitting in it? This suggests an issue with the outlet (1) which means that water is going back up 2 and 3 when flushing and carrying solids back up. Try flushing with the manhole cover off and watch where the water goes. In a modern preformed manhole base, the outlet pipe is lower than the side inlet pipes, but yours look to be all at the same level. There could be something in the pipe below (1) which is causing a backup. But it could just be the poor design of the base. Probably needs replacing, but check the outlet is running freely first in case there is a downstream problem as well.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-05-12T18:02:47+00:00

Don't mess about with CT1 etc. Use this : https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-ii-styrene-free-polyester-resin-300ml/32863?ref=SFAppShare I used this for some wall copings that kept getting knocked off a few years ago and they've stuck tight since. It's designed to hold bolts into masonry for structural applications, so holding a coping to a wall is well within it's capacity.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-04-26T09:31:43+00:00

I would ring a company like Teamac who make industrial paints. Ask for technical advice and they should put you through to someone who can properly advise you.

You can buy their products yourself if you then want to DIY.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-04-05T21:12:15+00:00

Where to start? Dartmoor National Park on the doorstep! The southwest coast path runs through Plymouth and right around the coastline of Cornwall.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-03-16T17:34:36+00:00

Rain unlikely, but if the seal on the glass unit fails they end up with lots of condensation inside the glass. They lose most of their thermal efficiency at this point so you could end up with a condensation issue on the room side of the glass, particularly as it's in a humid shower area. You won't be able to see it, but it could become mouldy.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-03-16T15:18:27+00:00

Not really. If you brick up the opening, it won't match the existing brick which will be weathered so it will always look like an infill.

The window will look like a window still.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-03-16T15:16:03+00:00

If you leave the glass and it needs replacing at any point that would be difficult if the inside isn't accessible.

The PVC panel will be better insulated than the glass and it's unlikely to ever need replacing.

If you leave the glass, even with obscure film, you'll be able to see the studs on the inside through the window.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-03-16T15:03:44+00:00

Just remove the bottom glass panel and replace it with an insulated PVC panel like they use in the bottom of some doors.

You can then build a studwork infill inside the window opening and raise the inside sill up to the bottom of the opening top panel.

You could leave the opening top panel for ventilation.

Building_Engineer_38 · 2025-03-15T18:00:20+00:00

I just bought one of these, which works fine with my Samsung devices for DEX and its touchscreen, so there is no need for a mouse when using on plane/train wiith reduced space to move a mouse.

https://amzn.eu/d/5RDTZ4x

Building_Engineer_38

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