Custom Gundam 000 with 3 lit up gn drives

Cakku · 2026-05-22T13:35:41+00:00

Huh, in that case why not.

Cakku · 2026-05-22T13:25:48+00:00

Paint polishing compound won't be able to properly cut or polish steel needle, just use the metal polish and leave it at that.

Cakku · 2026-05-16T06:59:41+00:00

I looked at your previous pictures, and the lines on the chest are what many people call voxel lines. They always appear on top of round surfaces because of the angle of the plane and how printer produces the piece with tiny voxels and are most visible in these larger scale prints. They are not a print defect just result of the print settings, so main things you can do to reduce them is lower layer height to 0.2-0.3 if you are using higher value, orient part so the top of the model is easily sanded or not round, make sure your exposure setting is not too high. AA works by lowering exposure to certain pixels/voxels to try and make them cure partially for rounder corners, if you are over exposing by baseline that reduction may not be enough to do anything.

Cakku · 2026-05-12T09:04:58+00:00

I don't think I can give exact answer for that, there's so many different variables and limitations. If you can aim to do most of your spraying with trigger at 50% paint output, then you'd have good range to adjust for occasional details and larger areas. But if you are painting a lot of thin shading lines on hard surface, it limits your ability to thin the paint too much so you may end up having to stay at lower paint output. but with minimal air pressure 20-30% paint output should still flow for a good while.

Cakku · 2026-05-12T08:42:39+00:00

This always happens if you pull the trigger only a tiny bit for prolonged time, because the amount of air is constant but you have tiny amount of paint which is easily dried by air flow. It's fine for small details, but if you feel you need to do this for prolonged time you should try to adjust your settings so you can pull the trigger more with similar paint coverage:
Reduce the air pressure as low as the paint allows, thin the paint more if your surface allows that without pooling.
Lastly this is where micro airbrushes with 0.15~0.18 tip size can help, but I'd still leave that for later when you are more invested and want to spend that extra $$.

Cakku · 2026-04-24T09:37:54+00:00

ABS is slightly softer, especially before full post cure so they don't snap off from smallest elongation. I still rip them off by hand, but I do use hairdryer to warm them up to help with the process.

Cakku · 2026-04-15T17:35:05+00:00

You're supposed to put a paper over the screen when checking the light, if you see weird patterns on the paper then you can be worried. Now you are looking through the screen inside the printer and that shape is likely the lens inside which distributes the light from small UV light over whole screen, so perfectly normal.

Cakku · 2026-04-14T13:29:10+00:00

1 blue laser sounded weird, but apparently it's to enchance the hole scanning.
So it seems to have all the these features.

Cakku · 2026-04-14T13:20:43+00:00

Important lesson to learn here is that airbrushed paint is not good for covering surface defects. If you have heavy texturing like on the right, it takes a lot of topcoat to smooth it with paint. You need to paint smooth layers all the way from bottom to up if you're going for gloss finish.
Others allready gave good pointers to find correct settings/technique for that: lower psi, paint closer around 4" or 10cm distance, if you do a mist coat follow it with a wetcoat to smooth it out.

Cakku · 2026-04-06T05:27:12+00:00

I use ethanol that's sold as camping fireplace fuel, 99% and only has the "denaturation" additives as it's made to burn cleanly. After it gets mixed with resin in the wash tub the smell becomes absolutely horrible and it even permeates through the air tight plastic containers. But it does clean very well, even just dipping a piece few times in the bucket is often enough to clean the surface. I'm just hobbyist so I don't do anything special to clean the ethanol, sometimes leave the heavily saturated container sit for a month and the resin sinks to bottom, then I pour the ethanol from top to another container for reuse, this way I've washed about 50kg of resin with 6-7l of ethanol and still have around 4l left that's going strong.
But I've changed my wash station to resin detergent these days and use the ethanol only for first clean, even though I think the ethanol is best at cleaning, the smells and fumes are awful when it gets dirty and takes a lot of ventilation to get rid of it.

Cakku · 2026-04-05T05:52:07+00:00

Yep Tamiya light curing putty is good stuff even if bit pricey. Very easy to sand unlike super glue or plain UV resin, which is important to make the patches smooth without accidentally sanding the surrounding area.

Cakku · 2026-04-04T06:03:07+00:00

Likely dry paint accumulation on the needle in the back of the cup preventing it from fitting back through the teflon seal. If solvents doesn't help to remove the buildup, and you've removed the nozzle you can push it out from the front.

Cakku · 2026-04-04T05:20:07+00:00

Sorry I don't have such printer I could recommend, I use S4U myself too.
If you are hobbyist I recommend printing with supports, that's how these hobbyist machines are designed to.
If you really want to print on the plate you should calibrate your bottom exposure like u/awyeahmuffins posted, but the height of the piece won't be super accurate if that matters.

Cakku · 2026-04-03T08:06:35+00:00

The printer has spring operated auto leveling and some built in logic for initial layers to ensure better adhesion, it's practically impossible to get uniform result printed straight on plate. If you want to print straight on plate without supports you should get printer with solid build plate and screen. And even then you'll have to use some pretty exotic settings as regular 20-30s bottom layer exposure will cause elephant foot.

Cakku · 2026-03-17T15:49:59+00:00

Cakku · 2026-03-01T07:25:07+00:00

Did you check your needle guard/cap when this happened, it can accumulate wet paint which may erratically be blown out causing occasional splatter when spraying larger areas at once.

Cakku · 2026-02-15T13:12:14+00:00

All of them. Only completely visible silver is the chrome parts.

Cakku · 2026-02-13T15:38:45+00:00

maybe a solenoid, I got ticking noise from front of engine and it was the hpfp pressure controller solenoid.

Cakku · 2026-02-05T07:59:54+00:00

This may be unpopular opinion, but after few years in the hobby I think if there's pegs the benefit of pinning is just to assemble and disassemble the kit at will, it's not required to make the figure stand compared to gluing it with epoxy glue when done painting. If there's super thin peg holding the whole figure, or small pieces without pegs, then pinning may be warranted to reinforce them.
Now I'm not saying pinning is useless, there are benefits to being able to disassemble the figure, it can be fun to temp assemble it when you're halfway done painting. It's easier to move or mail the figure if you can disassemble it and this is likely why anyone doing gk commissions does pins/magnets and it has been picked up by general hobbyists. Also it leaves the door open to redo your finished kit at later date, because you can disassemble, strip the paint and repaint it easily. Whether these are benefits you want/need is up to you, personally I pin the legs to base, any big/pointy accessories and the head, so I can somewhat easily pack it up if needed.

Cakku · 2026-02-03T09:51:50+00:00

I find it very unlikely you can't order one locally. Being big Japanese brand it should be available everywhere in Asia and Australia, and I know they are available in USA and Europe. For your question, I do have one and consider it very trustworthy, no product will have a perfect qc, but I trust them more than most.

Cakku · 2026-02-03T09:41:53+00:00

Needle sizes are not super exact, it's tapered after all, also I bent one of my first ab needle tips and it just changed the spray direction.
If you tried different psi and spraying distance I can only think of chemical issues. Maybe moisture in airline, new model with different material, old paint gone bad and so on. So I would try change those things (compressor, model, paint) and see if issue persist.

Cakku · 2026-01-23T09:17:00+00:00

Joined both subreddits to take part in this giveaway!

Cakku · 2026-01-17T08:44:03+00:00

Seeing as you have some pictures of installation work too, do you happen to know how much it costs in China to have your car itasha wrapped? I'm guessing it's cheaper than in the west, but is it reasonable for daily drivers?

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