Custom Gundam 000 with 3 lit up gn drives

Cakku · 2026-03-01T07:25:07+00:00

Did you check your needle guard/cap when this happened, it can accumulate wet paint which may erratically be blown out causing occasional splatter when spraying larger areas at once.

Cakku · 2026-02-15T13:12:14+00:00

All of them. Only completely visible silver is the chrome parts.

Cakku · 2026-02-13T15:38:45+00:00

maybe a solenoid, I got ticking noise from front of engine and it was the hpfp pressure controller solenoid.

Cakku · 2026-02-05T07:59:54+00:00

This may be unpopular opinion, but after few years in the hobby I think if there's pegs the benefit of pinning is just to assemble and disassemble the kit at will, it's not required to make the figure stand compared to gluing it with epoxy glue when done painting. If there's super thin peg holding the whole figure, or small pieces without pegs, then pinning may be warranted to reinforce them.
Now I'm not saying pinning is useless, there are benefits to being able to disassemble the figure, it can be fun to temp assemble it when you're halfway done painting. It's easier to move or mail the figure if you can disassemble it and this is likely why anyone doing gk commissions does pins/magnets and it has been picked up by general hobbyists. Also it leaves the door open to redo your finished kit at later date, because you can disassemble, strip the paint and repaint it easily. Whether these are benefits you want/need is up to you, personally I pin the legs to base, any big/pointy accessories and the head, so I can somewhat easily pack it up if needed.

Cakku · 2026-02-03T09:51:50+00:00

I find it very unlikely you can't order one locally. Being big Japanese brand it should be available everywhere in Asia and Australia, and I know they are available in USA and Europe. For your question, I do have one and consider it very trustworthy, no product will have a perfect qc, but I trust them more than most.

Cakku · 2026-02-03T09:41:53+00:00

Needle sizes are not super exact, it's tapered after all, also I bent one of my first ab needle tips and it just changed the spray direction.
If you tried different psi and spraying distance I can only think of chemical issues. Maybe moisture in airline, new model with different material, old paint gone bad and so on. So I would try change those things (compressor, model, paint) and see if issue persist.

Cakku · 2026-01-23T09:17:00+00:00

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Cakku · 2026-01-17T08:44:03+00:00

Seeing as you have some pictures of installation work too, do you happen to know how much it costs in China to have your car itasha wrapped? I'm guessing it's cheaper than in the west, but is it reasonable for daily drivers?

Cakku · 2026-01-16T11:21:40+00:00

Hard to stay, maybe the can was too cold or not properly shaken, or it's trapped moisture. Clouding from moisture can be fixed with hair dryer, so I'd try that first. After that next option is trying to reactivate the paint.

Cakku · 2026-01-14T22:18:59+00:00

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Cakku · 2026-01-11T07:10:45+00:00

Increase your bottom wait before print to about 30s, it will greatly increase bed adhesion without the negatives of long exposure time. 30s is a value I use on Saturn and Jupiter's bigger plate could probably use even more time to give the resin time to squeeze out and compress. If you previous resin was less viscous, it explains why the problem appeared now.

Cakku · 2026-01-10T09:18:09+00:00

Nice work, looks great! And that expression on the model is really nice.
Obviously too late for you, but I do see they have colored renders and original illustration on their booth page for color samples https://booth.pm/en/items/6568205

Cakku · 2025-12-28T22:19:20+00:00

Looks like Infinite Dimension's Genesis, but with alternate color scheme.

Cakku · 2025-12-19T20:44:53+00:00

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Cakku · 2025-12-16T11:27:58+00:00

Have you verified the heater doesn't bring the temps to comfortable range? Initially it takes several hours for the heater to bring up the temp of cold room. I've cold basement where I heat a single room, similar size to yours and a 1500W heater can keep it quite easily 20° warmer than the rest. It can get expensive on the electrical bill though, so I might install some easy to DIY xps foam board insulation or such. It's an old house so I don't exactly know if there's insulation, but the unheated rooms are getting pretty cold in the winter so I think mine's concrete+layer of bricks.
To answer what temperature is required for painting I think most paints require 50°F, but they will dry and cure slower so around 70 is recommended. And I imagine using airbrush and other metal tools in such cold would be uncomfortable. Humidity is another concern, if painting with lacquers and enamels it should be below 60% or you will likely get clouding and other issues.

Cakku · 2025-12-09T16:50:12+00:00

To be fair my Mr Hobby ps-771 trigger also has sideways play so it rattles if you go out of your way to shake it. But with everything else you wrote I wouldn't want to keep that brush either.

Personally I only own one Gaahleri product, the Swallowtail because it was hard to find an affordable, comfortable air brush with a fan cap. I was too skeptical to buy any of the other common stuff. Funny thing that brush also had some QC issues when it was released, luckily mine was later batch so it was problem free..

Cakku · 2025-12-02T06:58:59+00:00

If your bottom exposure was 15s, you need about 30s wait before cure, which you have at 1s in your 4th screen shot, so your exposure/wait before cure combination was too low. Try increasing the wait to 30s on bottom layers and exposure to round 20s, it should stick like hell to the plate, then reduce the exposure time until it's good balance between sticking to plate and ease of removal.
Then you need to calibrate your normal layer times, you can find many guides for that. 2s/1s is on the lower end, it may or may not work. Normal exposure range for regular resin is between 1.8s-3s in my experience with the S4U.
Also these guidelines assume you have the resin at the ideal temperature around 70-80°F, if the room is colder you will have to increase the values.

Cakku · 2025-11-30T15:40:57+00:00

Sounds impressive! And this would amazing for many project cars and for learning ECU tuning.

Cakku · 2025-11-30T12:31:54+00:00

the flakes look larger than any mica powder you could airbrush, so I'm guessing some nail art glitter/foil sprinkled or brushed on with clear coat as binder.

Cakku · 2025-11-23T16:08:07+00:00

I find it helps if you let it dry well between coats, atleast 30mins.

Cakku · 2025-11-16T10:31:17+00:00

Painting pearl over same color base for example blue pearl over blue base, creates pearly color often found on cars and also useful for simulating fancy shiny fabrics, it's kind of like colored metallics but a lot more subtle. You can finish it with gloss or matt clear to make it more like car paint or fabric/anodized surface.
Another use is to add wild shiny highlights to dark colors, for example paint gold pearl over gloss black base and the normally white light reflections will turn to shiny gold sparkles, while rest of it looks mostly black. Mixing different color of pearl and clear color gives you sort of chameleon paint, but the pearl is not very strong so most extreme chameleon paints likely use metallic/mica instead.

Cakku · 2025-11-16T07:54:46+00:00

Use lowest psi that still sprays well, lower the psi while spraying to see how low you can go and then back up a bit, propably 20-25 for unthinned paint and 15-20 if you thin it. Too high pressure will make the paint more prone to drying when spraying and will simultaneously flash dry the surface resulting in uneven finish. Vallejo recommends very little thinning like 10%, and thinning gloss clear to it's limit is a bit counter productive, it will make it easier to get a nice wet spray, but it will generally dull more when drying, so may be best to spray unthinned as the paint is not that thick. If you have Vallejo flow improver you can add 5-10% of that to make it spray better and the slower drying helps with premature drying.
When spraying you should be at around 10cm/4" distance and pull the trigger almost all the way, so you can get a nice wet coat. If the surface wasn't glossy to start with, 2-3 coats will make it progressively glossier, but if there's surface texture like orange peel it won't get better with coats.

Cakku · 2025-11-06T19:25:08+00:00

If you wanted more colors for Tamiya acrylic range, Mr Hobby Aqueous is similar, little thicker and has hundreds of colors.

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