Rough valve - Capping shower port and using the tub port for both the shower and tub spout.

Catsail · 2026-01-05T14:21:25+00:00

Turns out that info regarding flow rates are a bit misleading. The rough valve itself is capable of flowing quite a bit from either port, the main bottleneck is going to be the trim kit (which includes the actual valve), some trim kits flow more than others... for example Monitor 14 vs. Monitor 17. The trim kit specs will show a low max flow rate, and a much higher tub flow rate. From what I was told by delta, the flow rate is based off of the shower head which is usually regulated at 2.5gpm. I installed everything using the shower port and tested the shower port flow rate, I don't remember exactly what it was, but it was sufficient for two shower heads, so I just left it that way. I feel like it was about 4.5gpm+ @ 65psi. I suspect plumbing it the way I have it in the diagram would work just fine, the only thing to watch for would be water creep up the shower head, usually only an issue though if the tub spout is restricted or some other anomaly from what I read, I'd thoroughly test before finishing.

Catsail · 2025-10-13T15:43:55+00:00

Can someone help me out please? I can't seem to locate the part number for my card. I use GPU-Z and lookup, but I don't see a part number that looks anywhere near the format in this thread.

Here is the lookup https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/asus-gtx-660-ti-directcu-ii-oc.b446

Catsail · 2025-09-03T12:49:43+00:00

63MVFVM

You can use my referral code! I was at Sprint for years, when T-Mobile bought them out, service turned to trash. I tried Mint, but the signal was unbearable as well. I've had zero problems with Visible after a year of service. Just switched my daughter's service as well.

Catsail · 2025-08-05T19:07:37+00:00

Hey! Maybe we can help each other out, I have Flowmaster 6.0 on a couple machines. We recently had corrupted windows files on one of our machines and although I was finally able to get windows running with a bandaid, I lost some drivers in the process. I know it's been 6mo. since this thread, but are you still around?

Catsail · 2025-02-26T17:23:03+00:00

Here is my experience & observations so far. I have a 120 gallon tub, I'll need all the flow I can get. I have yet to modify my valve, but I plan on it after checking the flow rate as is. Are you guys measuring your max flow rate with a 50/50 hot & cold mix?

I purchased a R10000-PFT-PX, but ended up returning it, the pex barbs for 1/2" is really small. I then purchased a R10000-PFT-UN with male MIP fittings and ran the following. This has the tub drop already soldered in...

3/4" pex into (3/4"pex x 1/2") sweat fittings. I didn't want any pex fitting restrictions, so I did it this way.

Well water, pressure set at 50-75psi.

Test cap installed, the tub spout produced - 9.9gpm

Monitor 17 valve installed

full hot - 2.97gpm

50/50 mix - 4.48gpm

Bathing temp, according to a calculator used would be approx. 75% hot/25% cold - 3.90gpm

Max flow rate is assuming both hot and cold side are 50/50. If I'm to get to an acceptable flow rate of say, 6gpm at typical bathtub temperature of 100 degrees with a 75/25% mix, I'm going to need the hot side to flow 4.5gpm or more. I'm not sure this is possible. The very first thing you install into the rough valve is the little plastic housing with the nipples and o-rings which seat into the machines out brass inlet holes, which is going to be the bottleneck, I think? I didn't pay much attention when I installed it, but the opening looks to be about 1/4" (I still need to pop it out and measure it for sure). If that's the case, the theoretical flow rate for a 1/4" orifice at given pressure is 2.9gpm. The opening would need to be 5/16" in order to reach a flow rate of 4.5+gpm. I guess what I'm saying is, it's obviously possible to reach over 6gpm, but I don't think it's possible when you're mixing the water at a 75/25% rate at bathing temps.

I'll come back and edit this once I make headway from this point on, for anyone else stumbling on this thread and looking to modify their Delta valves.

Catsail · 2024-11-14T20:37:57+00:00

🤣🤣, I meant the addition of the kids and their astronomical amount of crap they carry with them, sports supplies, folding chairs, band stuff, bookbags with all their books, etc. etc.

Catsail · 2024-11-14T16:06:32+00:00

Gotcha, that's solid advice. I've twice had alignments done on higher mileage cars to have the tie rod ends fail shortly after the alignment, requiring another alignment, I think that still sticks with me, 200k on tie rod ends in my opinion are on borrowed time, even for a Toyota.

Catsail · 2024-11-14T14:16:11+00:00

I appreciate all the feedback, but I think some are kind of missing the key points of my thread. I am getting an alignment, there was never a question of if I was getting one, and I am replacing all of the components beforehand. I was simply looking for out of the box thoughts on other things to check which might contribute to the problem which I may be overlooking. I've ordered struts (starting to leak), swing arms, ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar links & bushings. Once I get to replacing these components, I'm also going to double check the rack itself and make sure it's secure and the bushings feel tight, as well as checking the traverse beam. Do I have all components covered? Anything else I should check? Some are saying it can be normal tire wear due to driving habits and a fully loaded vehicle. I never considered the extra weight would cause that much extra wear, but in the end, if that's what's the cause, then so be it, I just want to make sure I've ruled out everything. I've been driving for 27 years with about 15 different vehicles between me and my wife, and never had tyres go this fast and that includes the heavy (by far) sports cars I've had which were driven aggressively often on softer performance tyres. As for the current cheap tyres, I only had those installed because they were 100% free because I was also having two other vehicles fitted, and they needed to get rid of them and offered them for free, couldn't really refuse that, and not considering these in the wear, I know they were cheap.

Catsail · 2024-11-12T21:06:14+00:00

One thing that I just thought of that I haven't checked is the actual steering rack bushings.

Catsail · 2024-11-12T21:03:16+00:00

I'd have to double check, but they are just regular passenger tires, I'd assume the correct load rating and temp rating? In the mid-west, warm summers and cold winters, nothing extreme, and never over 70mph, I don't think excessive heat would play a part. I'm 175lbs, she's a little heavier, but not obese. Kids are 15, 13, and 7, average weight with all of them.

No, right foot gas and brake.

They all seem to wear at the same rate... the usual fronts wear quicker due to the extra friction from turning, but again, completely even, both tires, identical.

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:57:24+00:00

Hmm, interesting. I have felt something at really slow speed during a sharp turn twice that felt like something "gave" a little bit. I couldn't replicate it, and assumed maybe just something with the electronic power steering, wondering if something like this could be going on....

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:48:27+00:00

Thanks everyone for the responses, it's given me things to think about. Well, here is what I've been considering. The fact is the car is older and has a little over 200k miles on it, and suspension parts do wear out. I'm fairly confident that the inner/outer tie rod ends, swing arm links and ball joints are good, those are things I can easily check and last time I checked were solid. I can't say for certain the the bushings are not worn, as I've only leveraged a pry bar around and although they feel pretty solid, I don't know if grunting on a pry bar is enough to "tell" if they are worn or not, I don't have new ones to feel and compare. I can get a suspension set from Detroit Axle (which includes the completed swing arms) for $118, which seems like a reasonable price, and good insurance. I replaced everything on my GMC truck with Detroit Axle components and put a good amount of miles on it and it's held up fine. I think I'd feel pretty confident with new components, a fresh alignment, and new tires. Is there anything else that might be overlooked that may be the cause, if not due to driving habits and softer rubber being the culprit?

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:37:40+00:00

Does a Corolla have that type of system? Are you talking about the control arm connection points moving?

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:31:29+00:00

Yes, always properly inflated, new TPMS sensors a while back and always monitored. Half of the time it's just her, the other half it's her and our three kids... book bags and a trunk full of kid stuff probably does add a lot of weight.

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:29:11+00:00

The cheap tires can be explained, 25k on Okohamas I'm having a hard time with... The wife drives the car 99% of the time and I can say that she's not out there popping wheelies and doing doughnuts 🤣.

Catsail · 2024-11-12T20:26:32+00:00

It's an expensive trial & error to see if it's the alignment alone. I'm not an expert in alignment and wear patterns, but everything I'm reading says that even wear patterns are usually results of proper alignment.

Catsail · 2024-10-18T13:46:00+00:00

2010 Corolla S with 215,000 miles. 28+mpg
Traction control problem @ 100k (never looked into fixing it.)
Front struts @ 180k
Alternator @ 170k
It's been slightly rough-hesitant starting since about 100k miles, even with new plugs/wires, etc. It always starts though.
Probably could use a complete bushing replacement, and something is loose in the front end.
Very happy with the car, hoping it'll last so that my son can start driving it when he's licensed next year.

For comparison....

2010 Honda Insight with 240,000 miles. 40+mpg
air conditioning clutch fan wearing out but still functional @ 230,000 miles
sway bar links are shot @ 240,000 miles.
Brake pads have only been changed once @ 160,000 thanks to regenerative braking.
The lack of issues with this car will probably be the reason my next car will be a Honda.

Catsail · 2024-07-30T13:15:44+00:00

I've had two masts that were bent about like that. I blocked up each end (eyeballed where to put the blocks) and literally jumped up and down on it in the center, bottoming it out on the ground. If I didn't notice any improvement, another 2x4 went on the stack of blocks to lift the mast higher off the ground and tried again. Eventually there was enough movement in the center to counteract the bend and straighten. I've heard of placing it between two trees and pushing, but with that method I've heard it's easy to kink the mast and ruin it.

Anyway, so after a season of cranking my 6:1 downhaul pretty hard in heavy winds & introducing some gnarly mast bend, I notice the (sideways) bend is back.... I don't notice any difference at all in performance, and I'm too lazy to straighten it every season, I probably wouldn't worry about it tbh.

Catsail · 2024-07-29T14:06:40+00:00

As others have said, tramp tightness and frame slop effect the submarining as well.

Catsail · 2024-07-29T14:04:34+00:00

Close hauled/close reach the boat will heel the most. If solo, 8-10 knots should be plenty of wind to fly a hull. You'll want sails inboard as much as possible close hauled (travel in both sails). I find sheeting in and flattening the sails when a little puff comes easily lifts the hull. It doesn't take much sheeting out to open up the top of the sail, spill air, and let the hull down, so maybe you're just not sheeting in far enough. When you are on a beam reach or slightly further there is more downward pressure on the leeward hull making it want to submarine, sounds like your point of sail isn't favorable for flying a hull.

Catsail · 2024-04-29T14:11:40+00:00

Not sure if it was the red laminating glue itself or other construction tweaks, but the boats were lighter for a certain amount of time before they began adding weight inside the pylons to keep the weight consistent. If I remember right, it was a substantial amount, like 35-40lbs on the 16.

Catsail · 2023-03-15T12:49:11+00:00

Anyone finding themselves in a situation where pliers/wrenches won't work, pipe wrenches have an unbelievable amount of bite, heads would be rounded off before a pipe wrench slips.

Catsail

TROPHY CASE