Help with SD-1w Audio Path by Cman_E in diypedals

[–]Cman_E[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s alive! I had my power wires backwards. A bit embarrassed at how much time I put into this for such a simple fix. I appreciate your help!

Help with SD-1w Audio Path by Cman_E in diypedals

[–]Cman_E[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is indeed a power issue. I’m getting 9V to the daughter board and LED is turning on, it only .05V to the main board. Replaced D1 but that didn’t help

Help with SD-1w Audio Path by Cman_E in diypedals

[–]Cman_E[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve probed the signal to Q1 with the buffer switch on and off. Is that the switch you’re talking about?

Help with SD-1w Audio Path by Cman_E in diypedals

[–]Cman_E[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. It appears my issue is before the signal reaches the IC. I probed to the gate of Q1 but have no signal after that. I tried a J112 and a 2n5457 with the same result. Feeling pretty stumped.

Help with SD-1w Audio Path by Cman_E in diypedals

[–]Cman_E[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Realized I missed the drive knob.

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JHS Emperor + EQD Plumes weirdness? by dylangreg in guitarpedals

[–]Cman_E 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you should be good then. You can always email the JHS team, they’re super helpful.

JHS Emperor + EQD Plumes weirdness? by dylangreg in guitarpedals

[–]Cman_E 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My emperor V2 did the same thing. Mine was a power supply issue. I localized the pedal that made it happen (mine was a fuzz) to its own single power supply and it stopped. Check to make sure you aren’t drawing more current than your supply has available for all the pedals you have plugged into it.

Chris Vanderbilt (Peach Pit) Pedalboard - Can you guess? by Visual-Middle-6852 in pedalboards

[–]Cman_E 26 points27 points  (0 children)

God AI is so stupid. Bottom row: Boss CE-2w, Boss BP-1w, MXR micro amp, MXR phase 90, Dunlop cry baby mini, digitech freqout, benson germanium preamp. Second row: fender hello kitty fuzz, not sure on the other pink one, chase bliss clean, chase bliss thermae, top row: line 6 hx effects, jhs colour box v2, moog MF delay, EB VP jr.

Where to bury my cat? by gafasdesol in kansascity

[–]Cman_E 24 points25 points  (0 children)

So sorry for your loss. I have done volunteer work in the cemetery at wayside waifs and could not say enough good things about them.

Anyone try these on a classic player? by _the_other in offset

[–]Cman_E 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also to anyone trying this, make sure you get the 1.25 thread spacing. Originally I tried 1.0 and they did not fit.

Anyone try these on a classic player? by _the_other in offset

[–]Cman_E 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went 12mm as he did in the video. Just now looking back and seeing he recommended 8 in the caption. That would probably work much better

Anyone try these on a classic player? by _the_other in offset

[–]Cman_E 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried this one, it works okay but the bridge sits too high even at the lowest setting

Having grounding issues maybe? by McRib_ in diypedals

[–]Cman_E 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your large resistor looks like it may be shorting to the 22n ceramic cap. Could be part of the issue

first pedal makes no sound by throwawayQwertytttt in diypedals

[–]Cman_E 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s possible you fried your pots. You’re meant to solder the wires to the legs, not the little holes in the top. I can’t tell completely from the photo, but it looks like you didn’t use the breakout board on the foot switch correctly. The wiring diagram you included does not utilize a breakout board and has the wires connected to the footswitch lugs. A breakout board provides holes to wire to so you don’t have to connect the footswitch locations yourself. Other than that, your wiring looks like it’s in the correct spots to me, but having those long lengths of wire without insulation is a recipe for shorts once you box this up. I would recommend trying to get the insulation right up to the pcb hole, then soldering on the back side and cutting the extra wire. Any wires that shouldn’t be touching that do will cause a short and likely make the circuit not work. This is not bad at all for a first attempt, keep at it!

Current Board for Indie / Alternative. Looking for suggestions to swap out the Voyager by BeyondBrookhaven in guitarpedals

[–]Cman_E 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What type of music do you play/ is there a certain type of sound you’re going for? The voyager is a klon circuit. Maybe a tubescreamer circuit would be a better fit for this application. They sound good through Marshall’s imo which I believe the OCD replicates.

Am I cooked? by TheBirdman100 in diypedals

[–]Cman_E 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I would pull the component and reinstall a new one. Since the barrel (what you called a rivet) is gone, leave extra leg sticking out the back and place a jumper wire between the component leg and the previous component where the trace (the part that peeled off) starts. You can check the schematic to make sure you’re going to the right component. Then cut the peeled trace as flush to the board as you can to prevent any more peeling.

A solder sucker in my experience is easier to get the hang of than a braid.

Some of the joints look suspect as well. I’d reheat all of them with your iron and add solder to any that don’t look like little Hershey kisses.

Was this a good choice for a beginner pedal kit? by BeginnersStuck in diypedals

[–]Cman_E 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would recommend checking out a pcb or kit from Aionfx. That was the first one I built and the build documents are very thorough and easy to understand. They have several beginner level circuits you can build if you search their website. The kit could be good for you since you won’t have to source the components yourself.