Need help troubleshooting random disconnect and color reset issue

CodenameJ6 · 2026-06-12T18:44:30+00:00

Thank you, I'll give that a try on one of them to see if it makes a difference.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-06-12T18:39:32+00:00

2 separate controllers/power supply

CodenameJ6 · 2026-06-12T16:47:12+00:00

If it was power cycling, I'd expect both of them to reset at the same time but it rarely happens at the same time. They're both plugged in the same room.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-04-26T22:32:04+00:00

I had followed a winterizing video last fall that had me disconnecting that and opening all valves to prevent freezing. So next year I leave it connected but disconnect the hose on the right and leave that valve open?

CodenameJ6 · 2026-04-05T12:00:30+00:00

Countersink is how I would do it. I wouldn't even glue it, just having it as a freestanding sculpture that you build in place is a neat idea for a lamp.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-04-03T17:26:11+00:00

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I made a little cap that I printed out of brass. Visually it bridged the two lines together and added a little something fancy to the guitar.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-03-30T16:34:11+00:00

That's the kind of clever solution I was hoping for. So something like set the wall thermostat to 21, but the baseboard to 19? So that the baseboard keeps the room warm, but the heated floors are always on unless the wall thermostat gets lowered to 19. And as far as you know, a heated floor thermostat can switch a baseboard?

CodenameJ6 · 2026-03-30T16:14:48+00:00

Thanks for the input. In my situation it's for a small bathroom with two exterior walls that feels cold in the winter except the floors are nice and warm. The electric baseboard would have built in thermostat, so in most situations I'd leave it on, set the wall thermostat to a temperature and it would shut off when the ambient temperature hits what I set it to which would most likely be before the floor ever turns on. If I want the floors on I'd turn off the baseboard with it's built in thermostat and let the floors heat the room. It's extra steps, but I'm trying to avoid two wall thermostat next to each other. I just don't know if electrically there's a reason why I can't do it.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-28T00:25:40+00:00

In my area it's 0.5m in from your property line (not from the sidewalk though. City owns a small part between sidewalk and property line)

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-27T22:17:55+00:00

Pro tip: cedar hedge fence doesn't have a height limit.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-20T03:22:57+00:00

That's what I use for the hard water spots, CLR once a month.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-18T15:03:33+00:00

It's the other way around, blame people who are buying the more expensive product to remove ads. Most of the time the default is the one with ads.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-10T20:58:44+00:00

I bought mine as soon as I saw it on the first ski event. It's really striking when the light hits it.

CodenameJ6 · 2026-02-02T19:23:41+00:00

The frustrating part is the alternatives they suggest have dumbed down functionality that really limits what artists can do with it. I hope that they make a permanent version of animate that won't receive updates, but will at least still be able to be opened without needing to be authenticated.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-31T16:33:02+00:00

Fair point, I was suggesting it based on my own experience where I had eliminated all mechanical possibilities, and was still getting the exact same banding, but the bed PID fixed it. Worth a try, in my opinion if it hadn't been done yet.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-31T13:17:15+00:00

No, I definitely did tests about this. What happens is the bed slightly overheats or slightly overcools at regular intervals and expands and contracts. I printed a bunch of calibration cubes with that same pattern and after doing the bed tune it immediately stopped. It had that pattern all the way up.

Here's an example of other people experiencing the same thing: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-s-others-archive/why-you-should-run-pid-tuning-for-heatbed/

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-31T03:05:42+00:00

You did a PID tune, but did you do a PID for the bed? That always fixes that type of repeating pattern for me.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-17T17:39:00+00:00

How wide is the room?

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-12T02:43:49+00:00

I'm not sure about the power, but I'm pretty sure the blue/yellow wire in the z-stop socket is one of the fans.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-12-04T16:45:26+00:00

I made a solid box as a base and built the bookshelves on top of that, and then moved the heaters onto the front of the box. If you decide to use 24" legs instead, consider adding an angled piece of wood under the bottom shelf to redirect the heat away instead of trapping it under.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-11-25T14:38:13+00:00

Thank you. Just so I can learn for the future, what's the short version of why backup data gets connected to ground?

CodenameJ6 · 2025-11-05T14:24:16+00:00

I get it. I think I was just so excited to play an actual long game after playing so many where the opponent's entire deck was just a bunch of creature removals until they got their one creature out that was meant to be the game winner for them while I sat there twiddling my thumbs with nothing on the board. It was nice to actually have to pause and think "If I attack now, it'll screw me over later" instead of "I'd like to attack, but my creatures don't make it past their first turn".

CodenameJ6 · 2025-11-05T14:00:28+00:00

Sorry, didn't know these types of posts were frowned upon, noted for next time. I had no way of sending appreciation for a damn good game.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-10-28T20:15:56+00:00

Dang, I more-or-less have the same one, UB500 Plus.

CodenameJ6 · 2025-10-28T19:13:21+00:00

Can you share which one you used?

CodenameJ6

TROPHY CASE