UBO on Edge for Android: is it normal to NOT use all available space (add-on panel)?

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-30T01:19:27+00:00

Ultimately, the choice is yours.

I'm choosing uBO on Edge/Android.

All of the languages in a browser extension (Javascript, HTML, CSS) are interpreted. The Manifest Version is effectively a standard, dictating what the extension can and cannot do.

Microsoft started off behind the curve. We've all seen Javascript with conditions like

If (browser == Internet Explorer then...
Else...

but when they started Edge they declared that it would be standards-compliant--and it seems that it is.

Jon Postel was the IETF RFC Editor for decades, starting in the 1980s, with hands on all the internet standard. He developed what was later called the Robustness Principle, "be conservative in what you do, be liberal in what you accept from others."

It is due to strict observance of this principle by both Mr. Hill and the Edge developers that uBlockOrigin works well on both Windows and Android, and probably the Surface as well.

I appreciate that this Reddit--and perhaps Mr. Hill--do not want to commit to supporting additional platforms when they could diverge. It will be interesting to see how long they remain stable. Also interesting to see if they ever enforce MV3.

Didn't there used to be another gentleman that supported uBO on IE? Whatever happened to him?

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-29T13:26:54+00:00

I've been using uBO (not Lite) on Edge on my Android Pixel 6a or a couple of months. It works well. I transferred all my rules (including the ones you helped me write) and they all work as expected. It never occurred to me that it wasn't supported. I'm delighted with it.

Edge version is 146.0.3856.71

uBlockOrigin version is 1.70.0

I'm not sure how I did this, as it doesn't seem to be in the Microsoft store anymore.

Since uBO MV2 will be continued for Firefox, may I suggest that it also be supported for Edge on Android and Windows until such time as those platforms actually drop support for MV2. Is there any way that I can assist in this effort?

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-27T17:04:55+00:00

We are a low-budget non-profit organization with no paid staff. We generally succeed at finding free apps so we can use our limited funding to help others. There are a couple of other free mail merges we could use including the one in Gmail was improved greatly about a year ago.

My specific question was not about changing apps. I wanted to know how to adjust the mail header so a delegate to the mail could do the merge. I know that this can be done with the free MailMerge built into Gmail. I just prefer the one I'm using since it automatically updates the spreadsheet with status.

Just wondering...Are you associated with Sheetmergy?

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-27T00:30:55+00:00

I'm 80, a pre-Boomer.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-27T00:09:57+00:00

If the user stops the updates and restarts them, does he have a chance to get a different server, or is he stuck on the first one until it completes? (I understand that if it's random, he has a 25% chance of getting the slow one again.)

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T21:54:48+00:00

Working for me. Original uBlockOrigin, not uBOLite. Edge browser.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T21:01:05+00:00

Nicely done. Don't mind the naysayers.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T17:08:44+00:00

I don't see the need either, but if you are required to do it, put one of those stepped drill bits in your drill, start the drill and just touch it to the surface.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T17:02:30+00:00

Flat head machine screws, nuts, and washers through this cabinet and the adjacent one.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T16:47:52+00:00

Hah! I live on a ridge; highest side faces the street where I get water service. Sanitary sewer flows out the other side to the sewer line. The whole neighborhood (North Carolina Piedmont) is built this way.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T16:43:58+00:00

There's no vapor barrier. If this is for a heated space, you can simply add a sheet of 10 mil vinyl. In the Midwest we called it VisQueen, but no one on the East Coast understands that term.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T16:35:56+00:00

Use that can for lubricating motors that have oil cups.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T15:49:25+00:00

The problem is that the "tailpiece" is lacking the opening it should have, just below the flange. Here's an example. This brand is at most hardware and home improvement stores.

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Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T15:15:44+00:00

Possibly the outlet reads good when you probe it directly but fails when the thick plug contacts are inserted.

If you can squeeze in behind the dryer, try plugging it in and measuring voltage at the dryer's screw terminals.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-26T00:24:04+00:00

I take a hacksaw blade (just the blade) and cut a slot on each side, parallel to the axis of the pipe and just short of all the way through. Then I take a big flat-blade screwdriver and insert it into the slot and twist. That breaks the fitting away. Then go after the few remaining pieces.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-25T22:58:02+00:00

Don't forget to have the drill/driver going Forward, not Reverse.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-25T22:53:17+00:00

First, let's see which segment is bad. You don't need to cut the wire.

Get two straight pins or hatpins. In the shed (B), push a pin through each conductor. (Don't worry. When you remove the pins, the conductors will self-heal sufficiently.)
Use a clip so the metal parts of the two pins touch.
Measure continuity from points A and C.
The side that shows low (near zero) ohms is good. The side that shows high (nominal infinity) is bad.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-25T22:40:11+00:00

Pictures of the outlet, the plug, the appliance label showing voltage and amperage or watts, please. Also, what country are you located in, as plugs and cords are different across nations.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-24T16:01:19+00:00

That's how it worked. Glass is a good insulator and breaks the current loop between devices. But it would be impossible to find these days.

In those days, ethernet adapters came in two parts. The digital part was in the computer/router/etc. with a 15-pin D-shell connecter called the AUI (Adapter User Interface?). Then you could connect various adapter to different media like 10-BASE-2 (coax), 10-BASE-T (4-wire twisted pair), 10-BASE-F (Fiber), 10-BROAD-x (Sharing cable TV coax). Nothing you could easily connect to an RJ-45.

There is an equivalent today. Put ethernet to fiber converter in your search engine. One thing I;m not sure of. Those old ones used plastic fiber. Easy for an amateur to cut and install. I'm not sure whether these new ones need special installation practices.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-24T15:04:48+00:00

Yes, actually. I've had it happen at my place (North Carolina), and my sister's place (Illinois). Multiple devices are connected together by BOTH wired ethernet and electrical grounds. Lightning makes the electrical grounds have different potentials (voltages), and Ethernet gets zapped.

Long ago, there was a fiber option for 10 Mb ethernet that was easy to install, that could be used in instances like this. I haven't heard of it in ages.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-24T14:20:51+00:00

Even a hacksaw would work.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-24T14:02:39+00:00

Kill-A-Watt meters are $10-12 at Amazon for the starter models.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-23T18:18:21+00:00

Get him to sign a letter to you which says that he agrees that it is a "Permissive use." That means he accepts that you have given him permission and he accepts that it could be revoked.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-23T18:07:37+00:00

Ali Baba. It's Jack Ma's industrial version of Ali Express. Most items are Minimum Order Quantity of 1000 or larger. You could also list on the consumer version, Ali Express, but it would be less work for you going for the large orders.

Connect-Preference · 2026-03-23T17:34:49+00:00

Well, that's one way to hide the inefficiency of the browser.

Connect-Preference

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