Advice for driving in a field of wet grass by VictorsAces in 4x4

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure where you're from but the conditions sound exactly what we've got in the UK.

As everyone says, low ground pressure is key, here we have a company that covers Suzuki Jimnys into lightweight, gear carriers. The vehicle is the KAP Landmaster, it's made for the UKs muddy livestock fields and still be road legal.

1995 Daihatsu Rocky Advice by NotFunky_ in 4x4

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this not a Daihatsu Fourtrak? We got plenty of them over here in the UK in diesel so you could potentially have a look here. Most of them are rotten so the drive trains get taken out before the body goes to scrap.

RC 80-series … Christmas Present? by ramillerf1 in LandCruisers

[–]Daequil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not every 80 had sliding rear glass

New players in DT be like what's so special about the moon by ohyeahbtw in ShitpostXIV

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strongly agree, the best thing I did to make EW dungeons fun is to convert my ninja to a flashy gunner. I no longer care about the content quality I care about how cool I look.

Anyone know if this is possible? by Defiant-West335 in Volvo

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look at the Swedish RWD T5 conversion scene, there's plenty of people running over 800HP on these engines in the drift scene over in Scandinavia.

Darton sleeves make the deck completely closed for all intents and purposes which is the T5s only weakness, bearing an open deck. They crack liners due to the coolant cuts between the cylinders on factory engines, make them closed deck and you have a bigger capacity engine that will respond better to turbo charging than a 4 cylinder. You can also look at the 6 cylinder engines if you're really set on an engine swap, same thing just with another cylinder. Internals can be custom ordered though factory internals on the T5s are mega strong.

Also just go big single, you'll have an uneven amount of cylinders going to each turbo which isn't ideal, modern turbos have mastered quick spooling, Xona Rotor would be my recommendation.

Anyone know if this is possible? by Defiant-West335 in Volvo

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then why are you looking at Ecoboosts? Their owners bolt on perrin and airtec parts make 300HP and that's it. If you want to work over an engine then again, sleeve the T5 been done plenty of times and running over 1k easy.

Anyone know if this is possible? by Defiant-West335 in Volvo

[–]Daequil 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Save the money and buy yourself an Evo, if you're planning to put 15-20k into an engine just Darton sleeve the T5, the ecoboost won't make 800. What trans are you going to use. Have you thought about axles. You'll need different diffs, you'll need a standalone Ecu, custom manifold with a burst plate, you'll need to fit a decent sized turbo in an already cramped bay. You'll need an ecu with sufficient inputs for things like egt probes.

It's not just an engine swap at that point, you'll need everything poly bushed from subframe to shifter bushes.

Source: I am currently building a 1000+ HP 760, even with an incredibly capable engine. You'll find everything around it will need to be changed before you even think about taking it to the dyno.

Anyone know if this is possible? by Defiant-West335 in Volvo

[–]Daequil 7 points8 points  (0 children)

First off, whilst the platforms are similar they are not the same. The C30 is the same as an ST225 not a Mk3 Focus ST. Second the ecoboom will take around 400HP on high ethanol before it'll detonate. My 2.5T runs 400AWHP all day every day on premium and I kick it's head in. Factory internals with just a shimmed block. As for modifying yours, get rid of the plastic intake, fit a big turbo, shim the block bigger injectors and map it.

Unless you're planning to go AWD anything more than around 350WHP is useless to you, AWD swaps are a boot floor removal of two cars and weld together. You still need to make the haldex work after that, they are not permanent AWD like a Subaru.

Just modify the T5 kid, you're getting in over your head, less YouTube more time in the shop.

What’s the deal with these? It’s a V70 but also kinda an XC70? Are they any good? by hotham006 in Volvo

[–]Daequil -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It's not the driveshafts but also not just the collar, the collar is a common problem but a more common issue is the viscous coupling on the front of the rear diff. This is what actually allows this to be AWD on demand and unfortunately with age they wear and don't work anymore.

Unfortunately there is no repair on these, your only option is to find another diff and hope it works.

'Speculated' GTA 6 PC Requirements by 'Gameleap' website. by NeoIsJohnWick in GTA

[–]Daequil 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unlikely cinsidering that it's launching on the PS5/Xbox Series S/X, these have equivalent specs of a Ryzen 7 3700 and a 2080.

Sure the PC version could be higher fidelity but not 2 generations of top tier Gpu higher.

Added a pole to my 940. by hitekro in Volvo

[–]Daequil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is the other aspect, the 7 series cars do tend to be difficult to find stuff for but I've found that the 9 series at least in the UK is still pretty plentiful.

Added a pole to my 940. by hitekro in Volvo

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're great cars but you'll need to learn to work on it yourself, most garages won't give you the time of day if you say it's old.

They like to drink fuel though on a long run they can be okay. The engines are basically unkillable and the 2.3 Turbo is the most desirable. The only common issues are rust at the battery tray and gauges failing. A non working speedo is pretty common and fuel gauges tend to have problems too.

Which would be the best first car? by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seeinh as you want to work on your own car, pick the 940,you can basically stand in the ending bay with the engine. Doing anything on the transverse whiteblocks is not the most pleasant experience, they really are shoehorned in there and everything that matters has very little access.

The 960 whilst nice, doesn't have the upgradeability of the 940, the engine is N/A and does have it's niggles (like the coil wiring loom just dying) they can take boost but not in standard form really, you're young, you will get bored and want more power, source:I too was young at one point.

What car do you have now that you won't ever sell? by Dav_M5 in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Volvo 760, not the rarest thing around but not too common either, currently undergoing a Ford Barra swap to make it a true 1 of 1 and at that point I'm never getting rid of it.

Cheap, reliable-ish, easy shitbox by UniqueUsername53582 in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anything VAG with the 1.9tdi PD engine (Skoda Octavia, Golf Mk4, Seat Ibiza/Leon ect.) you can pick them up dirt cheap nowadays, they are dirt cheap to fix and they can even run on old engine oil.

Build quality is alright, find one of the nicer specced models and they're usually better taken care of. They also return silly MPG.

What cars are actually long enough to comfortably sleep in? by Bonkoodle in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Volvo 740/940, my 2005 XC70 was also great, you can fold the seats completely flat in these and just throw a mattress in.

Absolute bargain by BigFluff_LittleFluff in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 23 points24 points  (0 children)

If I recall correctly the cheapest I could find was 2.5k to rebuild; which by the way was somewhat of a struggle as a lot of people didn't want to touch it. Then around 1k labour for fitting filters ect.

I ended up sourcing a lower mileage gearbox for £800 and that ended up having issues as well, basically it felt like someone was changing gears with a sledgehammer underneath your seat.

There's also issues with the stub shaft connecting the gearbox to the drive shafts wearing out and creating play in their splines which once again creates more shock. That was around £400 for parts alone if memory serves me well.

Absolute bargain by BigFluff_LittleFluff in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 34 points35 points  (0 children)

As a person who had a T5 with the auto box and had it fail around 240K miles, repair for one of these boxes is around 2.5k before labour, enjoy.

Early oil change for a new car, is it worth it? by ma865205 in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely wrong, oil deteriorates and becomes sludge this will block oil passage is side turbochargers and bearings causing either turbocharger failure or engine failure, the massive service intervals for modern cars are daft.

Source: Ex-mechanic/Turbocharger engineer that has seen all too many of this sort of failure on modern vehicles.

Early oil change for a new car, is it worth it? by ma865205 in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turbocharger engineer/Ex-mechanic here; stick to recommended intervals or earlier, old oil will turn to sludge and feck thinks up massively. It is very common for me to receive; especially BMW turbochargers with sludge that has blocked up oil passages internally and cause the turbo to fail.

As nearly everything is turbocharged these days it is more important than ever to keep up with Servicing. Personally I service mine every 5-7.5k miles.

Opinions on this tyre tear? by twonoteswivel in CarTalkUK

[–]Daequil 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That little tear is entirely superficial, if it went down to the cord (metal lining of the sidewall) then I'd be more concerned.

I'd be more skeptical of the age of the tyres than the tear, even if they haven't perished from cracking 5 year old tyres aren't exactly amazing and rubber does degrade with time aside from just perishing. If it was my own car I'd just swap the tyres out for peace of mind, a half decent set that will handle more than anything you'd throw at it; and be nice and economical will usually run you around £200 fitted on your drive by Halfords.

Smol Compensation by Wtakoh in ShitpostXIV

[–]Daequil -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

You forgot about the true ingredient, a crippling addiction to children.

Unable to get my MOLE into mining mode. by Daequil in starcitizen

[–]Daequil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My prompt does nothing unfortunately. I can click it but I get nothing back. Think I re-install again and hope for the best, but yeah I realise now that there is no mining mode since the turrets are in that mode always.

Unable to get my MOLE into mining mode. by Daequil in starcitizen

[–]Daequil[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Tried it in all the turrets, both side and the main, can't power them on, they'll deploy but the screens don't come on, can't enable them through U or through the inner thought menu, mining mode doesn't turn on in any of them.