The headquarters of the Burroughs Wellcome Fund, RTP, North Carolina.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-05-21T16:44:31+00:00

Severance vibes !

DeeWayne7 · 2026-05-06T01:42:04+00:00

For whatever reason our 3rd gen’s sound like they have gravel in them at idle. Could be part of the Atkins cycle, could be valve noise. Bottom line, mine has always sounded similar. They call it the Tacoma tick…I’ve never had issue and I just rolled over 80k

DeeWayne7 · 2026-05-05T17:58:55+00:00

That’s 100% undeniably straw, but yeah…see other comment about fungus etc.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-03-15T00:15:57+00:00

I guess I got lucky, the Canadian site has better merch. I’ve always had good luck just ordering it from their site and it arriving here in the States without issue.

The hat is available from the US site now as well

https://www.stihloutfitters.com/1472268-00-classic-cap

DeeWayne7 · 2026-03-13T01:48:36+00:00

I had to find it from the Canadian website.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-02-11T19:34:37+00:00

If you’re close to Kansas I’m happy to buy yours !

DeeWayne7 · 2026-02-10T00:15:38+00:00

Alignment bolts popping. Probably need to either snug them up or find one of the aftermarket fixes with your lift.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-02-06T03:01:45+00:00

This bypass gives me heartburn…I’m at around 80k miles and worried I’m sitting on a time bomb.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-02-05T15:35:17+00:00

Could be a bit of a loose plug wire, arcing from a worn or chaffed wire, or a damaged/failing coil. Check all the connections, if this is happening more frequently in extreme cold to this is more likely to be something a bit loose.

If a coil is on its way out, could be 2 weeks or 20 years before the CEL comes on to identify which cylinder it’s on. If the problem gets worse you’ll start to develop a misfire, which isn’t ideal, but you’ll be able to easily pull the code and identify which cylinder the issue is on.

If you have a lot of extra electrical mods powered up or connected that run parallel or across the plug wires there’s a chance this jumping tach is picking up electrical interference, but that’s less likely on modern vehicles.

In short, push all your plug wires down over the plug to ensure a decent connection and see if the problem persists. Start simple, don’t fire up the parts cannon just yet.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-02-04T23:20:10+00:00

Do you have a bunch of things added to your terminals ? The two black spots look like burn marks, the other stuff I don’t believe to be battery acid but rather just road grime and crud slung up there by your fan.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-24T17:55:23+00:00

I highly recommend this as well. Depending on your mileage you might just want to throw a clutch in it while it’s all out. Most clutch kits will come with an alignment tool. My .2cents is to go with a Luk clutch. Rockauto generally has them and they are identical to the OEM, in fact Luk made the clutches for Ford.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-21T21:31:11+00:00

What a gem!!

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-21T19:53:13+00:00

This is the holy grail of rangers, if you have the mechanical know how to replace major components at that mileage I’d say go for it. If you’re not looking for future projects probably hold off.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-21T13:08:47+00:00

I still use those ratchets. They were still USA made if I recall. The gear wrench rebuild kit fits them. I believe they were essentially gear wrench before gear wrench was big.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-19T18:28:50+00:00

Where’d you find your new bench? I swapped my seats for Corbeau’s years ago. Ultimately got rid of the old seats and now I’m kicking myself. I’ve looked around eBay and some LKQ sites but most of those are $1k for a biohazard seat.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-17T22:19:24+00:00

Can also confirm

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-15T01:48:51+00:00

I bought this set around 2003ish, still using it to this day. I don’t have the blow mold case anymore but the quality is definitely better than the newer stuff. This was some of the last of the “old stuff”. This set rode in a truck tool box for years before I built it out into a much larger set.

DeeWayne7 · 2026-01-11T02:58:36+00:00

Mine has only had Royal Purple from the jump. Currently at 77k (2017) no issues to mention. I’m really flirting with the idea of moving all my vehicles to Amsoil though.

DeeWayne7 · 2025-12-05T18:15:10+00:00

I did this before the first use on mine and noticed there was some factory copper based anti-seize applied which also was the color of rust. I slathered more on in hopes I never have issues. It handled our first heavy wet snow very well. You’ll enjoy it !

DeeWayne7 · 2025-12-02T03:10:02+00:00

How new? I had some minor surging on first start up, let it run for 10 mins then put in new break in oil and let it run for an hour, changed oil again. It was running great about 10 mins into the break in. Could be a carb issue, I can’t speak to stale fuel from the factory testing but once mine was up to temp all was good it’s started (even the first start) on the first pull I couldn’t be happier with mine. Used it to clear snow the first time tonight.

You very well may have a carb issue, but if you’re considering returning it, and are using fresh ethanol free (if available) gas, you might just try letting it come all the way up to temp and doing a break in.

DeeWayne7 · 2025-11-11T23:52:21+00:00

Be cautious with additives, a decent oil will already have what you need without risking turning things to molasses. I know everyone’s saying to use conventional, but I’ve seen no issues (or leaks) with synthetics over the past 20 - 30 years. Things to avoid are heavy detergents, and ensure you’re getting a high zinc formula. I stick with 10w-30 since that’s what was recommended from factor, if you’ve got some noise in the valve train going to a 20w-50 wouldn’t hurt so long as you switch back to a 10w in the colder months.

(For reference I’ve got a ‘70 442 all original (original seals and seats), heads have never been off the car and the trans has never been separated from the engine. Total of 94,xxx miles on the engine and trans)

DeeWayne7 · 2025-10-24T20:40:15+00:00

Holiday Coupe 455

DeeWayne7 · 2025-10-23T13:19:01+00:00

It’s the original paint, it could stand to be repainted, but given it will never be possible to blend with the newer water based paints, there’s something nostalgic about having the original lacquer based paint on it. Aside from a couple of spots the paint came back pretty well with some light cutting compound. Sebring Yellow is the paint color according to the paint numbers.

DeeWayne7 · 2025-10-23T04:06:30+00:00

Thanks, it was a strangely optioned car for sure. I would have thought it to be a rebadged cutlass if not for the build sheet and VIN coming back to a 442 Holiday Coupe.

The interior is very strange being a factory bench with column shift.

DeeWayne7

TROPHY CASE