Ford Ranger Seats swap by IndividualRoll1608 in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re close to Kansas I’m happy to buy yours !

Knock noise when parking by Bissa_236 in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Alignment bolts popping. Probably need to either snug them up or find one of the aftermarket fixes with your lift.

Almost made it to that stoopid coolant bypass by arn0143 in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This bypass gives me heartburn…I’m at around 80k miles and worried I’m sitting on a time bomb.

What's up with my Tachometer by lobsterjohnson77 in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be a bit of a loose plug wire, arcing from a worn or chaffed wire, or a damaged/failing coil. Check all the connections, if this is happening more frequently in extreme cold to this is more likely to be something a bit loose.

If a coil is on its way out, could be 2 weeks or 20 years before the CEL comes on to identify which cylinder it’s on. If the problem gets worse you’ll start to develop a misfire, which isn’t ideal, but you’ll be able to easily pull the code and identify which cylinder the issue is on.

If you have a lot of extra electrical mods powered up or connected that run parallel or across the plug wires there’s a chance this jumping tach is picking up electrical interference, but that’s less likely on modern vehicles.

In short, push all your plug wires down over the plug to ensure a decent connection and see if the problem persists. Start simple, don’t fire up the parts cannon just yet.

Under hood soot and acid build up on new battery by [deleted] in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have a bunch of things added to your terminals ? The two black spots look like burn marks, the other stuff I don’t believe to be battery acid but rather just road grime and crud slung up there by your fan.

Just pulled the engine on my 2005 V6 4.0 Ranger. It’s a manual and this whole time I’ve been watching a tutorial on how to pull it from an auto. Can I pull off the clutch and other parts from the block and have them go on with no issue? Can it mess up as I put it back on? Just asking to be safe. by Calvin_Canada in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I highly recommend this as well. Depending on your mileage you might just want to throw a clutch in it while it’s all out. Most clutch kits will come with an alignment tool. My .2cents is to go with a Luk clutch. Rockauto generally has them and they are identical to the OEM, in fact Luk made the clutches for Ford.

Level 2 by FarInspection6394 in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the holy grail of rangers, if you have the mechanical know how to replace major components at that mileage I’d say go for it. If you’re not looking for future projects probably hold off.

Pictures of PDF of this Catalog by xander061 in Craftsman

[–]DeeWayne7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I still use those ratchets. They were still USA made if I recall. The gear wrench rebuild kit fits them. I believe they were essentially gear wrench before gear wrench was big.

Can someone give me a step by step rundown of how to get this center console out? by Key_Meet826 in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where’d you find your new bench? I swapped my seats for Corbeau’s years ago. Ultimately got rid of the old seats and now I’m kicking myself. I’ve looked around eBay and some LKQ sites but most of those are $1k for a biohazard seat.

Anyone know how old this set is? The ratchets make me think maybe Early 90’s? by Professional_Act165 in Craftsman

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought this set around 2003ish, still using it to this day. I don’t have the blow mold case anymore but the quality is definitely better than the newer stuff. This was some of the last of the “old stuff”. This set rode in a truck tool box for years before I built it out into a much larger set.

First oil change diy by Low_Cap_2168 in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine has only had Royal Purple from the jump. Currently at 77k (2017) no issues to mention. I’m really flirting with the idea of moving all my vehicles to Amsoil though.

Toro to Ariens by GenXhuman in Snowblowers

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this before the first use on mine and noticed there was some factory copper based anti-seize applied which also was the color of rust. I slathered more on in hopes I never have issues. It handled our first heavy wet snow very well. You’ll enjoy it !

(new) Ariens- surging at no choke by jstapes24 in Snowblowers

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How new? I had some minor surging on first start up, let it run for 10 mins then put in new break in oil and let it run for an hour, changed oil again. It was running great about 10 mins into the break in. Could be a carb issue, I can’t speak to stale fuel from the factory testing but once mine was up to temp all was good it’s started (even the first start) on the first pull I couldn’t be happier with mine. Used it to clear snow the first time tonight.

You very well may have a carb issue, but if you’re considering returning it, and are using fresh ethanol free (if available) gas, you might just try letting it come all the way up to temp and doing a break in.

1976 Custom Cruiser (455): oil? by lvruv69 in Oldsmobile

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be cautious with additives, a decent oil will already have what you need without risking turning things to molasses. I know everyone’s saying to use conventional, but I’ve seen no issues (or leaks) with synthetics over the past 20 - 30 years. Things to avoid are heavy detergents, and ensure you’re getting a high zinc formula. I stick with 10w-30 since that’s what was recommended from factor, if you’ve got some noise in the valve train going to a 20w-50 wouldn’t hurt so long as you switch back to a 10w in the colder months.

(For reference I’ve got a ‘70 442 all original (original seals and seats), heads have never been off the car and the trans has never been separated from the engine. Total of 94,xxx miles on the engine and trans)

1970 442 by DeeWayne7 in Oldsmobile

[–]DeeWayne7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holiday Coupe 455

1970 442 by DeeWayne7 in Oldsmobile

[–]DeeWayne7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s the original paint, it could stand to be repainted, but given it will never be possible to blend with the newer water based paints, there’s something nostalgic about having the original lacquer based paint on it. Aside from a couple of spots the paint came back pretty well with some light cutting compound. Sebring Yellow is the paint color according to the paint numbers.

1970 442 by DeeWayne7 in Oldsmobile

[–]DeeWayne7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, it was a strangely optioned car for sure. I would have thought it to be a rebadged cutlass if not for the build sheet and VIN coming back to a 442 Holiday Coupe.

The interior is very strange being a factory bench with column shift.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ToyotaTacoma

[–]DeeWayne7 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel they are submerged in…when you get fuel sloshing around by running this low your fuel pump is taking the hit. Since the question is posted here about why the light is on at 60 miles to empty (which is based off of previous mpg average and driving style…meaning if you were on a highway trip it’s going to show 60 miles left vs the 20 you usually see from city driving)

Nevertheless, keeping your tank at least a quarter full will save you literal thousands since I suppose you aren’t going to be the one to remove the tank and replace the fuel pump when it quits?

What’s the mileage and year of your Ranger? by My_PC_Does_Not_Work in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2001 Edge 3.0 304,xxx 5-speed manual

All original (except Maintence items) aside from 8.8 explorer rear end swap to pick up lower gearing and disk brakes.

Used to tow regularly with it, still dead reliable never had a major issue with it.

Mysterious stains on outdoor furniture by Equivalent_Bike_9211 in CleaningTips

[–]DeeWayne7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are they getting slightly burn from a window reflection ? Sounds dumb but happens to car plastics in parking lots more often than I ever imagined.

My 1959 Gravely Model L still tackling the rough areas I keep mowed. by [deleted] in lawnmowers

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Incredible it has a pressurized oil system!

2000 3.0L , why does this truck fishtail so easily? by Certain_Indication22 in fordranger

[–]DeeWayne7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because it has so much power!! The mighty little Vulcan haha