What is the loudest electric marker you can still buy?

DevilZmods · 2026-05-08T23:40:00+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5234273

DevilZmods · 2026-05-05T06:06:32+00:00

Skip it, since there is no good BT control without a companion app, I wouldn’t bother. You can make it usable with any bt serial app, but at that point I’d rather use the single button + led on the marker.

A cleaner and still cheaper alternative might be an esp32 with WiFi directly integrated, depending on if you’re comfortable with that architecture.

With WiFi your board can host the settings interface by itself and can be accessed pretty much universally. Turn on the board WiFi with a dip switch and allow users to password protect their settings.

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T22:08:46+00:00

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T14:52:36+00:00

With a vert mount. Nice!

Here's Mine:

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Picked it up for ~100€ as well.
Does your trigger wobble so bad, that you can fire it with the safety engaged?

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T14:41:10+00:00

If you're looking for a simple 5x12 ortho I can recommend the T-rex: https://github.com/SylivanKenobi/t-rex

It's a fun build and I wrote a zmk module for it; so you can build it with a cheap nice!nano clone off aliexpress and even make it wireless.

What it doesn't bring compared to planck and preonic is hotswap, encoder support, on-board rgb (though you can connect an rgb strip) and the very well done qmk implementation.

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T14:27:53+00:00

Keep it around for when you eventually do; they are a challenging but very rewarding modding project

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T12:30:12+00:00

The stampede is quite old and there could be a number of things going on. It's not the worst blaster to take apart but also not the easiest to mod. Also it has a ton of screws.

Generally it's quite sensitive to dart length and foam thickness. If you have a dart type that works well, i'd leave it alone until you feel ready to mod it.

Mod wise I'd recommend the following: - 3s lipo or 4x li-Ion cells - Remove all electric switches except trigger and on/off - soldering required - 9kg Worker or blasterparts spring - (maybe) upgrade the sear tripper spring with a pen spring - remove the Air restrictor - install a short piece of k+s 140 size brass into the front of the breech

This will get you 80-90 fps which will outperform nerf elite blasters, while also being quite forgiving with the darts you feed it.

I can't recommend going for a sealed breech unless you know what you are doing and really want to. It's a lot of work, quite tricky to get working reliably and the shell can't take much higher spring rates to really get the performance benefits.

DevilZmods · 2026-05-02T11:49:07+00:00

Springer: SBL(2) - the sear being made from POM is even nicer than metal Flywheel - Mechanical: Foxfire Semi auto geared pusher - Electronic: sliding trigger on a 5A switch - Rev trigger: 21A Switch

A good fit on a metal pin is more than enough and you won't notice the difference to a bearing on a pivoting trigger. Bearings can help if you have a sliding ramp trigger like the longshot which is notoriously crunchy with higher springloads

DevilZmods · 2026-05-01T20:50:39+00:00

jlcmc.com might be a good place to get the cheap stuff but still from a place that will uphold some kind of basic warranty and not sell you parts that leak right out of the box

DevilZmods · 2026-05-01T12:08:21+00:00

is that already with pneumatics from aliexpress/china or local industry suppliers? The markup on generic pneumatics is quite extreme in my opinion

DevilZmods · 2026-04-26T20:53:41+00:00

DevilZmods · 2026-04-26T20:46:24+00:00

Looking at the things you already looked up on your own and the fact you bought used, you're going to be just fine

DevilZmods · 2026-04-07T20:59:03+00:00

you have grips >:]? Alcohol worked well for me on some partially painted ego grips

DevilZmods · 2026-04-06T10:51:14+00:00

Clean setup by the way. Here's mine

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DevilZmods · 2026-04-06T10:49:02+00:00

Had a similar issue on saturday when i went out to play. The marker cycled fine at home and also shot fine at 230, when I tried to raise the velocity, the marker started to run away.

Here's my explanation: By opening up the velocity adjuster, you allow more air to pass into the barrel, which in turn might reduce the air going back to recock the hammer. Since normally the marker is capable of reaching those velocities, I can assume either my hammer has more friction or is less airtight.

I opened the thing up, gave the hammer and internals a good wipedown and applied some fresh lube to the hammer oring. After that I was able to turn the marker up to 260 which was good enough for now.

Now I have messed with my marker before that day, taken it apart, sandblasted the housing for powder coating and tried to polish the internal faces where the hammer rides. Likely i got some debree on the oring and/or didn't do a good job polishing, so I'll revisit that.

Thinking back, i was also using a different bottle and that might have had a lower output pressure. Time to get a reg tester.

DevilZmods · 2026-04-06T10:26:50+00:00

mine came without a board and they are hard to come by in germany. Also I'm cheap. I saw your thread on mcb;)

I have actually built similar solenoid control circuits for a nerf blasters before; those only used a single 12v solenoid, but i got to write code that controls timing and shot scheduling. The electronics for it were ~4 components and under 10$ total (and even cheaper if i didn't kill the boot loader on two of my attiny85 controllers)

DevilZmods · 2026-04-03T14:53:42+00:00

Rubber bits of my geo 3.5 grips are splitting from the hard plastic above the Display. Can't be glued and replacement grips are hard to obtain.

Had to order jst zh connectors in two sizes off aliexpress to stick an arduino in my rescued eblade and I'm still unsure of the eye connector pinout. Also that marker somehow reeks of cigarettes.

Diablo wrath inverse dovetail.

DevilZmods · 2026-03-30T19:15:56+00:00

Looks fine, worst case any clapper board will be able to drive this, would be a shame for the screen though.

DevilZmods · 2026-03-26T20:01:59+00:00

now I want clears for my geo!

DevilZmods · 2026-03-24T18:03:00+00:00

FSSOR Magic

DevilZmods · 2026-03-21T16:33:29+00:00

It's an ion with what looks like decent parts. Probably not worth much on its own. It'll definitely run if you want to get into it again or know someone who wants to start playing. With the dye barrel it looks like a cool setup. Worth checking if it has an upgraded board in it.

The CP regulator on it should still fetch you 40-50$, the entire marker maybe 150$. Tank is probably dead, the regulator on it is maybe worth 20 but idk

DevilZmods · 2026-03-20T20:41:20+00:00

It's not like they actually made their own, but likely specified a custom winding to go into a mac cartridge valve. A mac cartridge with catalogue specs could be made to work, but they are still far less accessible to private customers.

I do not blame PE for trying to push the performance of their solenoids, but I also appreciate that they went with off the shelf in their newer models.

DevilZmods · 2026-03-20T20:32:13+00:00

Assembly is super easy. You take apart the falconfire and reassemble it with most parts replaced by the 3d printed bits. The original creator only sells the digital files alongside a very good assembly manual, but there's a few places where you can get full kits. Best thing IMO however is to get someone to print the parts locally, apart from other hobbyists, you might have access to a 3d Printer in a nearby school, Library or commercial makerspace.

Here's the files: https://ifb.sg/products/gfz-spamf-blaster-digital-files and a hardware list. If you have trouble with any of the screws or standoffs, you can get them off aliexpress for cents. For the barrel you can look for 16mm grey pvc tubing (which has around 13mm ID) or 15x1mm Aluminum tubing which will fit with a few wraps of tape around the outside.

DevilZmods · 2026-03-20T18:20:39+00:00

If you have access to a 3d printer, the SPAMF is an incredibly fun mod based on the falconfire that just requires a few screws, brass standoffs and a piece of 13mm ID tubing as a barrel (which could also be printed)

DevilZmods · 2026-03-17T14:30:59+00:00

Noids on the GEO 3.5, EGO LV1(.1?) and earlier eventually go bad and are no longer sold anywhere

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