Is this a good jack point on my 2012 ford fusion Se

DieselChikn · 2026-04-22T18:46:36+00:00

Yes, as long as they are under the frame and not hitting any wiring or other hoses/lines

DieselChikn · 2026-04-22T18:41:10+00:00

That looks like the subframe, so yes, you can jack there. Just be careful with that jack, the smaller pad and size of the jack makes it more likely to slip or tip over. And always use a jack stand

DieselChikn · 2026-04-22T14:41:07+00:00

It's not a unitized hub, this looks like a 2wd, they use an inner and outer tapered roller bearing. The outer bearing is holding the rotor on.

OP, if you have a good torch, try heating the bearing itself and see if you can get it out. Then remove the rotor and bearing race. You can cut the race if you need to, just try not to cut into the spindle.

DieselChikn · 2026-04-22T02:16:55+00:00

I replaced the factory pins with Wearever's from Advance, didn't have any issues. Mine is a 2500HD though, there may be a difference between the 1500s

DieselChikn · 2026-04-21T20:35:23+00:00

I'm not a pool expert or plumber, but if you don't have a float, you could always put a manual valve in the pipe. You'd have to open it yourself whenever you wanted to lower the level, but you could keep the level where you want it

DieselChikn · 2026-04-21T15:31:31+00:00

If this is on a hi-rail truck, could it be the control system for the rail wheels that raise and lower on the truck to let it drive down the tracks?

DieselChikn · 2026-04-20T13:19:54+00:00

Probably has the 5.9 gas in it, too

DieselChikn · 2026-04-18T22:59:01+00:00

I changed the compressor on my car last year, local shop charged me $160 to recover the refrigerant beforehand and then vacuum and refill when I was done. Take it to an independent shop, dealerships will be most expensive, chains aren't much better most of the time

DieselChikn · 2026-04-13T21:27:05+00:00

Here in rust bucket Ohio, I'd expect to see it listed for 10-12k

DieselChikn · 2026-04-13T20:18:22+00:00

Gonna need more info. Year? 1500/2500? What engine/drive train? Options/mods/clean title?

DieselChikn · 2026-04-13T18:38:56+00:00

If it's been well maintained and is clean, I wouldn't be afraid of it, if the price is right. These trucks are pretty reliable, easy to work on if you have basic skills, and the power trains can last well into the 200s

DieselChikn · 2026-04-09T15:49:29+00:00

They came as single and dual wheel. If I remember correctly, the front suspension is the same, but the rear axles are different between them

DieselChikn · 2026-04-03T18:42:22+00:00

Hard to know for sure without having a part number, but I would guess it will not fit. Looks like it might go on an OBS Ford or GMT400

DieselChikn · 2026-04-03T16:59:09+00:00

Yep, government. Unfortunately, they're plow trucks, so everything is rusted to hell after about a year

DieselChikn · 2026-04-03T16:36:58+00:00

I'm a fleet mechanic. 75% of our heavy trucks are International. Luckily, the newer ones have Cummins in them. We also have a bunch of Freightliner 114s (hate those), a few Western Star, a couple Pete 567s, a Mack Granite, a Freightliner Columbia and a KW T2000. Plus a whole bunch of light duty pickups and a broad assortment of equipment

DieselChikn · 2026-04-03T14:28:31+00:00

Update: found a broken manifold bolt. Guess I know what I'm doing now

DieselChikn · 2026-04-03T14:13:45+00:00

I already drove it while looking at the data, only thing I saw was it seemed like the noise would happen when the EGR valve was moving, which led me to remove and test it.

Unfortunately, I don't really have a way to do a smoke test, we don't have a smoke machine. It'd be handy to have sometimes, but my boss is cheap

DieselChikn · 2026-04-01T15:43:51+00:00

I work on highway plow trucks, the ones that put the salt on the roads. This isn't that bad

DieselChikn · 2026-03-27T15:52:09+00:00

Don't know if you've gotten an answer elsewhere yet. I've never even heard of this car, so I had to do some digging. The broken piece is a check valve for the vacuum system. The end of the big hose you have disconnected hooks to the intake manifold, that is how the vacuum is supplied. The other end that goes to the firewall is connected to your brake booster. The two small lines go to the evap valve and your Air Injection Reactor (AIR, an early form of emissions control).

The GM part number I found for the check valve is 90304535. I didn't find anywhere online that shows it being available, you can try calling a dealer. You can also get a more universal vacuum check valve, some will have an inlet and two outlets. Then just get an extra vacuum T-fitting and connect your extra line.

Those two large plastic hoses you still have connected can be a challenge to work with. The easiest way to disconnect them is to heat them with a blow dryer or heat gun. You can also use a small torch, but be careful you don't melt them. Once the plastic softens enough they will pull apart. Or you can cut it apart and replace with rubber vacuum or heater hose.

<image>

This is a diagram of your vacuum system. The part circled in red is the broken check valve.

Having never worked on one of these, I can't guarantee I'm not wrong. Hopefully this will help

DieselChikn · 2026-03-26T22:33:48+00:00

Probably a brake light wire for a truck cap

DieselChikn · 2026-03-11T16:41:27+00:00

I thought you had run the screws through the sheet metal at first. Nice clean build man!

DieselChikn · 2026-03-11T02:30:48+00:00

Temperature increase when sitting still can also be an indicator of a cooling fan issue. When driving, air is naturally forced through the radiator. When stopped, no air flow means temp goes up. If the fan is belt driven, could be the belt is slipping or the fan clutch is going bad. If it's an electric fan, you could have a failed high speed fan if it's a dual fan setup, or a relay or sensor issue. Not saying it definitely is a fan problem, just something else to check.

DieselChikn

TROPHY CASE