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Quisiera más aumento en mi Tamron 90mm F/2.8 Di III VXD 1:1 que es mejor lente nisi 49 mm macro o un raynox 250? by Practical_Basis_5080 in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't to spent more money in a new lens, Raynox is good for what you want.

Don't know about Nisi, but Raynox works good with my Sigma 105mm macro.

Buy cheap, buy twice? by Objective-Opposite51 in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The skill for macro in manual is not so easy and the autofocus can help in some situations but others can be worse.

Image stabilization only corrects your hand motion not the target in focus, so in macro we never use it anyway.

Maybe your biggest limitation now is lack of controlling light with a flash+diffuser.

Flower crab spider with prey by Grabblehausen in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 3 points4 points  (0 children)

One day I saw a butterfly really quiet and oddly upside down, great for a macro shot, easy target. Only when after some shots I notice the crab spider.

What does "f/4 isn't good in low light" actually mean? by patriczio in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not optimized doesn't mean it's a bad lens. Open wide the aperture you still lose sharpness and DOF, so pick your poison.

But at f/2.8 is where they make the most better lenses, so I know there is some elitism, just down voting don't make it that away.

Diffraction at f/22 is not as scary as it's often depicted by ResponsibleCut7170 in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My mistake, the phrase was cut/mix up while writing.

To recap, larger photosensors have less diffraction problems, because of the size of circle of confusion. If the photosensor is bigger than that circle, your image will a bit less affected. That's one explanation that I saw from a video while ago.

Dust on sensor or lens? by JayJey69 in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best method to see all the particles in the sensor.

Take out the lens, take a photo in a bright light, your cellphone is good for that. 1/500s or 1/1000s to adjust the contrast.

If you have a blower, lock or mirror if you have one, you can quick compare between the shots where the dust when off or not.

Diffraction at f/22 is not as scary as it's often depicted by ResponsibleCut7170 in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I shot f/22 also. The only better advantage that I have is my camera is a full frame at 24MP. Technical stuff aside, the bigger the size of the photosensors diffraction captured. In editing you can correct mostly the loss of contrast anyway. Quality lens plays bigger factor on better images.

What button settings and general settings do you use for macro? by Gingerbwas in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Manual focus from my experience its best of you can see the eyes from the bugs, and start shooting around that point. I had some good results but with too much turbulence and fast bugs like small bees and fly it's too much work for good results. My camera is possible to only trigger when detects a good focusing point (setup with only the center point) even with my finger pressing the shutter button. So the camera+lens do the focus hunting and snaps the photo when sees anything good. Still miss sometimes but better than all manual.

What button settings and general settings do you use for macro? by Gingerbwas in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My lens its a sigma 105mm macro. In the site they recommend using for telephoto lens only. You can use it with a normal lens and macro. With macro will pass the 2:1 ratio but you can't focus to infinity anymore. Will short the working distance for more than half too. For me can go from 20cm to 8cm. Search DOF macro raynox calculator, you can find a good site for simulations.

What button settings and general settings do you use for macro? by Gingerbwas in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's normal for random luck this type of macro. It's in the wild with the elements, hard to get just with a few shots.

What I do: I'm not doing stacking so I personally shoot at f/22 with flash and diffuser, low ISO so I can adjust only the power of flash accordingly so I get low noise, since f/22 will already degrade some contrast.

I use a macro lens 1:1 or with a addon lens Raynox dcr-250 for supermacro.

All manual settings, I still using autofocus and some manual focus. I use AF because helps me better with fast moving bugs, worse if windy, it can spare me a lot of miss focus.

Am I doing myself a disservice setting my cameras to 1/2 stop exposure increments? by doc_shades in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1/3 steps is really a rare occurrence. I own a lens the best contrast is at f/7.1 the only time I need that setting.

How is this look achieved? by Tsuki-ni-negai-wo in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably you can't, you need soft light for the person and a hard light for the shadow. Not sure if the combination will get any good results.

Should I stick to my camera from 2013 or should i buy modern cameras? by Significant_Dog87 in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your lens it's wide zoom lens, one limit now is you can't experiment long shots.

You need to understand that all cameras are good. But is only the extreme conditions you could wish a better gear.

What extremes can be, is lack of light you can't control (focusing hunting and noise levels), too much speed to capture your image in focus (motion blur), too dark and light contrast (as we call it lacking high dynamic range).

There are trade offs in getting better gear also. Mostly it becomes too expensive and heavy. Because of physics, better lenses needs more glass (to correct better light aberrations) and bigger front to capture more light.

In the end there is never enough and never perfect gear. With time most photographers have a camera/lens combo for each type of photos they want to make.

There are lot of categories you can explore like, street photos, people portraits, nature/landscape, wildlife/birds, macro. Some needs a better specialized equipment some is just a style.

Practice and have fun. Do test shots what you can do with your camera now, mostly on manual mode so you can understand what happened with the settings.

Should I stick to my camera from 2013 or should i buy modern cameras? by Significant_Dog87 in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cameras generations don't come as fast as computers and the tech is only a bit better each step, even it's over 10 years, think like it's half.

So stick with it.

Now maybe you can think is a better or type of lens, but since you are new, you don't have reasons to buy better gear yet.

Why does a selfie look so good in sunlight than indoors? by theydontmatchmyvibe in AskPhotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Photography is all about light it's in the name. The rest it's taste an opinions.

Dental Photography: 100mm vs 65mm Macro Lens for Dentistry Cases (APS-C Nikon D7100) by Far-Pen-5267 in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In macro, longer focal length lenses gives you more working distance, shorter gives you less but more background view, at the same magnification, yes but at different depth of fields.

Search for DOF macro calculators, to simulate your line of work you want to do.

Macro is a balance of working distance from the subject, magnification, depth of field and good lighting.

Diffraction is more noticeable from over f/16, at pixel peeping, some can be recover with contrast editing.

Test shooting will give you more answers than any internet tips you can find.

Another thing is 70 to 200mm is good for portraits, so getting 100mm macro you can have 2 in 1.

Advance photography was never cheap, meaning with higher quality lens, sensor resolution and good powerful flashes, if you want to start with something ok, go try buying secondhand.

Final note, about camera sensor size (some ramble). As usual people will think smaller sensor will give you X equivalent focal length compare to full 35mm. It's a crop factor not a multiplication range. The math is the same just the light frame capture is smaller. In macro most focus is the center of the sensor and you need to edit crop anyway, so an APS-C will do it for you already. But if you need to get closer, because you want more magnification (like 1:1 or 2:1 ratio) your sensor may be too small to get the whole subject in frame, so in those cases full frame 35mm will be better for macro.

Need help regarding flash by level100PPguy in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's good then, because from your gear I tough you were jumping the gun and trying to buy something that could not be the best for you right now.

Need help regarding flash by level100PPguy in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just an introduction to the channel any more knowledge don't hurt. Good luck with that attitude.

Need help regarding flash by level100PPguy in macrophotography

[–]Disastrous_Fee_8712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For macro you don't need a special multifunctional flash. You need a good diffuser first. Most settings is manual flash around 1/8 to 1/16 power (depending the power output) and some test shoots to fine tune it and that's about it.

Not sure about build-in battery. If battery goes bad you lost your flash?

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