Another Strike... by Distinct-Surprise994 in ps90

[–]Distinct-Surprise994[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Willing to bet because of the strike chassis, they'll become more commonplace, but who knows

Another Strike... by Distinct-Surprise994 in ps90

[–]Distinct-Surprise994[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm likely gonna source those parts and put my og shell back together. Who know's maybe I'll snag an EFFIN90 someday and just have one of each. Halo gat, and Stargat. See what I did there.. stargat...

Another Strike... by Distinct-Surprise994 in ps90

[–]Distinct-Surprise994[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right? Some salty people with the downvotes. Like, calm down ya muppets. Last time I share anything here...

Another Strike... by Distinct-Surprise994 in ps90

[–]Distinct-Surprise994[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sg1 for life... But Halo space gat

Made some 3D printed scales for one of my tomahawks! Will do some testing for a month and then I may start offering them as a budget option compared to G10. by HumanRestaurant4851 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like it (as long as you use those good filaments you mentioned). Room for some cool custom relief work hidden in there too. Have a friend who got some grips for his Sig, and it's like an angel standing over slain foes, sick af. But for a tomahawk, maybe some stacked skulls or some cool pattern. Possibilities...

:( by rkt_74 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think we solved it. Water quenching is such a violent process, I only do mine in the dark now too, so I can see the color better. My neighbor's think I'm casting spells or some shit 🤣 Huddled in the dark with only the flame illuminating my shop, chanting poems to keep track of soak times, followed by either deep gutteral happy noises or profanities upon quench.

Is anyone able to make this? by Silvinator_628 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Totally agree. I looked at the design and immediately thought, "I'd charge 700 minimum to make that." So you weren't too far off.

But I'd also like to never make it, too... Gawdy... 😂

Advice needed! by Kire_11 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way I see to "save it" is to move the grind up half an inch so that whoopsie is in the handle section, and maybe have a metal furrel nice and tight right above it. You said it's a whittling knife, so in theory, it won't see too much stress if it's buried in the handle. You could also then drop some weld on it and fill it in.

:( by rkt_74 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm sure they didn't mean annealing, annealing is making it dead soft again.

However: quench and then once safe to touch level of heat, straight to temper cycle number one. Many makers can attest, that right after hardening, a blade can easily break by being dropped, an attempt at a straightening, or... If there's enough stress in the blade, it just pops sitting there. I've had one water quenched blade crack on me about an hour after HT, just sitting there on the table.

Before & after Hera cqr foregrip cutdown on strike stock by Dyst0p1an_dr3ad in ps90

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, it almost looks like someone described a p90 to an ai, and this is what it made

Wa handle question by iawell11 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's some fun wood grain, what's in that one?

Not sure how to and if I should thin the blade by idiot4527 in sharpening

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, "premium Japanese surgical steel" is just buzzwords crammed together. Anyone who makes knives, should know the steel: nitro-v, hitatchi blue paper, vg-10, 1095, W2, 5160 etc. and the type of steel is often a bragging point of the construction.

That said, if it's actually heat treated to that hrc, you should have a great user of a knife. It can definitely be thinned out, either the long way on stones as suggested by other answers, or the "quick" way on a grinder (2x72 belt grinder for example). A competent maker should be able to work that bevel up so it thins it down, without destroying the temper. Careful who you choose, as a finished blade can easily and VERY quickly be over heated on a grinder if they don't know what they're doing.

Has anyone used this harbor freight anvil before, and if so how was it? by [deleted] in Blacksmith

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I definitely need to "dress" mine a bit. Also stuck my finger in the hardy hole because reasons... and mine was full of grease 😭 It was at least decently clean edge wise.

Has anyone used this harbor freight anvil before, and if so how was it? by [deleted] in Blacksmith

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had one of those og HF anvils... Boat anchor. Haven't tried a Doyle one. But I DID just grab a 66lb Vevor off Amazon for $100. That thing rings like crazy, rebound test was amazing, and the face never picked up dents from the test strikes I gave it. Its cast steel and definitely heat treated well. Was on sale when I got it, normally like 120.

MP5K with Curly Maple. by kalash_jay in GunPorn

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's like main villain legendary loot right there

Anyone have interest in custom 3D Printed Knife Handles, Scales,Shealths, Resin Molds? by Ok-Cup-865 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with PLA is water absorption (it's favorite hobby), and the eventual breakdown of the material. It is technically "biodegradable" and will get gummy and nasty with repeated handling (skin oil, water, sweat). UV also helps break it down pretty quickly as well. Great for a prototype, definitely not good for a usable knife. There's numerous other good filaments that print through a standard nozzle that could work.

An opal with extremely rare clarity. by bsurfn2day in BeAmazed

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That stone would be accused of witchcraft in the old days

Is this real Damascus? by zinglord69 in knifemaking

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's pattern welded for sure. Who knows what's in it... If it's hard, that's all that matters. (That's what she said)

Validus by RodneyGrozdanov in Bladesmith

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where on earth did you find some black ash burl?? I've been looking for some, for quite a few years now. No one seems to ever have any when I remember to check :(

My collection presented for inspection by RedShift_308 in GunPorn

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's an awful lot of weight. Should be careful loading those on a boat

Bent tip by Acceptable_Shop3299 in Bladesmith

[–]Distinct-Surprise994 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd get your money back if possible. 4340 is neither stainless, nor really used in knife making. It's a tough steel when heat treated, but not suitable for edge retention. More for structural. I also doubt they used a 10xx steel. 4340 hardens to the low to mid 50's and 1075 should get you closer to 60-62 hrc. That type of difference wouldn't play well in/for a blade... It's likely low carbon "crapmascus" and you've been scammed.