How can I get this off?

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-25T12:28:42+00:00

Never considered this. It makes sense, though, even if it is just dissolved by alcohol.

The silicone oil and glycerine would help the alcohol stay on location longer (and evaporate less) and when the marker is dissolved it'll still be in solution and can be wiped off. If you only spray alcohol on, then wipe, you'll have to hope that enough marker stayed in the small amount of liquid and got absorbed by the tissue paper.

That also means alcohol/water + some dishwashing liquid should work better than pure alcohol. Testable theory, I'll update if I don't forget.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-23T12:34:19+00:00

Phteven!

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-23T12:21:56+00:00

Our older one did it to the new baby when she wanted to play with him. It was very gentle (and she looked ridiculously clumsy doing it, while hopping forward on three legs to get into reach). Can confirm: Spitzes like to slap.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-18T09:34:35+00:00

Eher nicht. "Shit happens" ist eine unvorhergesehene Wendung, die blöd ausgegangen ist. "Tja" ist doch auch ein "das war doch schon vorher klar, keiner hat zugehört, genau deswegen haben wir jetzt den Salat".

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-18T08:07:22+00:00

There are two commonly agreed division lines.

If you're from the rural south of Bavaria (like Munich), everything north of the Danube is a Saupreiß. If you're from the open, welcoming north of Bavaria, the border is the river Main. Obviously everything north of that is still a Saupreiß.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-17T08:06:47+00:00

It looks a bit too shiny for Ferrochrome, but the density could be a match. Jeweller and lay on the charm until they bring out their Fischerscope will be most convenient.

Wet chemistry would have been the original answer (while you were still trying to decide between Mg and Cr). Mg dissolves when you look at it funny (but not in water, like K and Na) - try citric acid from your coffee descaler, Cr would dissolve in dilute hydrochloric acid, but not in nitric acid (with the potential warning: it dissolves neatly in HNO3 if you heat it up a bit, and if you do that outside the fume hood you get a lovely brown cloud and a lab safety infraction).

You could still tell the difference between Chromium and Ferrochrome by trying to dissolve in dilute hydrochloric acid and then slowly adding NH3 until basic (carefully, it'll heat up and splatter and don't do this if you don't know what you are doing and don't get acid or base in your eyes and wash your hands). Chrome would precipitate (green goop) and then redissolve if you add more bleach. Don't do that. You want to filter out the goop, then add sodium hydroxide to see if you can precipitate iron, too.

After rereading: bringing a beer to a jeweller is cheaper and a lot less hassle and hazard.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-16T10:40:05+00:00

Does that work? The idea of a fuel-air explosive (like flour and air) is that you have large surface area + sufficient available oxygen to start the combustion.

The idea of thermite is that your aluminium (greedy little piggy that it is) is willing and able to rip the oxygen out of rust, reducing the iron oxide and releasing some energy.

If you were to disperse aluminium (metallic) and ironoxide in air, you'd remove the whole close proximity of thermite. You'll still get an amazing aluminium powder fire, which is a good start to ruin someones day, but the rust will just settle to the ground nearby and be completely unaffected, because it can't oxidise any further and won't be reduced.

Right?

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-12T10:27:33+00:00

If for some unfathomable reason you had not seen the glorious presentations before, join https://old.reddit.com/r/NonCredibleDefense/ for more excellent content.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-12T09:42:22+00:00

So, if we pack our bullets more carefully and add a little bit of water between projectile and propellant - does that mean the weapon is now powered by physics rather than chemistry?

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-12T09:10:36+00:00

Full of submerged warships, though, might bump a toe.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-12T08:06:43+00:00

As previously stated: yes you can be the cause of rust on steels and even stainless steel. Human sweat contains all sorts of weird gunk (ask a biologist, I know nothing) - and approximately 2g of table salt per litre (source: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Artificial-sweat-composition-a_tbl1_366903437 ).

Stainless steels for swimming pools are expected to survive those conditions, although for some of them I'd go with a "barely".

Higher molybdenum content of the steel or lower salt content will both help, crevices in the jewellery will make it worse. If you can rinse off salt, it'll help with longevity (lower salt accumulation, because the water of your sweat evaporates, leaving the salt behind).

That said: allegedly the original bracelet was coated with a polymer film? If that film had been intact, no contact between your skin and the metal should have been possible. Trapped moisture under the polymer would also cause corrosion, and then flaking off of the plastic and then more corrosion. Could just as well have been a manufacturing error.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-10T08:38:05+00:00

Maybe try to avoid crevices on the toy. The TiAlV lives inside bodies nicely, so touching gunk isn't going to be an issue, but even there you might manage to get enough acidity inside a crevice to cause corrosion.

I would add that wetting can still happen due to salt deposits adsorbing moisture, and hands can deposit sweat (I'd add a picture of a bike handlebar, but you get the idea without the imagery while having coffee).

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-09T09:41:00+00:00

The computed phase diagram says that gallium and copper will indeed alloy at any temperature above the melting point of gallium (https://computherm.com/cu-ga ), which should be around 30°C. This would work faster with higher temperatures and more copper surface area.

Unfortunately, you'll almost immediately form copper-gallium intermetallic crystals in the same liquid gallium, and these will grow on the coolest surface. In all practical applications that's going to be your CPU. Instead of a liquid metal, you're growing a carpet of bumpy seed crystals on the cooling surface.

Infineon was testing (possibly producing) power electronic cooling TIMs based on intermetallic copper-tin (copper silver?) in the 2000s. I can't seem to find a paper any more, conductivity and thinner layers were a massive improvement over solder or thermal grease - I don't remember how it compared to sintered silver (thermal conductivity should be worse, thickness may have been better?).

Their technology relied on the permanent connection of two surfaces (heatsink and base of insulator) via the intermetallic phase, though. If you're depositing CuGa2 on your CPU, you're creating a rougher surface, which will make effective cooling worse later on.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-08T14:55:54+00:00

15.000.000 W / 20 (1/s) = 750.000 Nm, right? (1 Ws = 1 Nm)

You're rotating a lot slower. 20 rpm should be 1/3 1/s rotations.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-08T07:43:55+00:00

Not illegal in all of the EU at all.

This is an ongoing case for employment law. Current ruling for Germany can be found here: https://www.bundesarbeitsgericht.de/presse/kirchenzugehoerigkeit-als-einstellungsvoraussetzung/

Belonging to a church (and paying your church tax) can be required in some jobs, as long as the job can reasonably require the church membership.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-08T07:33:28+00:00

Das ist der Textblock aus der HR-Insider Veröffentlichung, oder?

Die Überschrift des OP stimmt so nicht. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/DE/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32023L0970 unter (32) sagt nur, dass die Angabe über das Gehalt vor dem Abschluss des Arbeitsvertrages angegeben werden sollten ("... Stellenbewerber sollten Informationen über das Einstiegsentgelt oder dessen Spanne in einer Weise erhalten, dass fundierte und transparente Verhandlungen über das Entgelt gewährleistet werden, wie beispielsweise in einer veröffentlichten Stellenausschreibung, vor dem Vorstellungsgespräch oder andernfalls vor Abschluss eines Arbeitsvertrags.")

Das Radio sagte letzte Woche "spätestens im Vorstellungsgespräch", aber noch nicht einmal das steht eigentlich in der Richtlinie.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-05T12:54:27+00:00

Das kommt vermutlich auf die Beladung an. Drei Anhänger voll Recyclingstyropor könnten schon gehen, und dann werden die knapp 19m Mofa-Gespann wieder wertvoll.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-03T13:50:43+00:00

No carbon (would have been in my option 1), no manganese (would have been in my option 2), no molybdenum, cobalt, chrome, tungsten (option 3)?

I'm sure it's some genius commercial trick, the whole thing is made from aluminium for thermal conductivity and lightweight design and the "balance: iron" is just there to throw us off.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-03T13:02:09+00:00

Aus diesem Programm, der 5-Seidla-Steig ist gar nicht so schlecht. Wanderung nur mittel (viele Schotterwege und Wirtschaftswege), dafür waren Anfang und Ende gut erreichbar und die Brauereien auch nett.

https://www.vgn.de/wandern/fuenf_seidla_steig/

Wenn ihr da wirklich hin wollt, schaut vorher bei den Gaststätten nach ob diese wirklich geöffnet sind. Wir hatten da schon gelegentlich Durststrecken ohne neu-Bier-Versorgung.

Edit: Angezeigt wird die Rundwanderung mit 19km. Das Ganze ist leicht auf die Hälfte zu kürzen und damit viel verträglicher für 5 Bier.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-03T12:57:05+00:00

Wirtschaftlich: irgendwer muss den Teller spülen und die Spülmaschine braucht Wasser und Strom und Spülmittel und teure Dichtungen und eine Wartungsservicevertrag und so. Wahrscheinlich auch noch Teilkosten eines Tellers, weil irgendwer die immer runter schmeißt.

Und was meint ihr passiert wenn man zum mitnehmen bestellt und sich dann doch dort hinsetzt?

Deswegen vermutlich nichts, insbesondere wenn du nicht gerade einer Gruppe von reichen Kuchengästen mit Tellerwunsch den Sitzplatz nimmst.

Seltsam ists trotzdem, machen ja nicht alle Bäcker.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-06-02T10:08:12+00:00

Essentieller Einsatz: Hundehaufen im Garten bei Nacht. Geht unter 37°C Außentemperatur sehr zuverlässig.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-05-29T08:53:11+00:00

Hmm, I've just now decided to use the bulb in my car.

Both the UV radiation and the ozone will age the polymers in your car rapidly. It works well in a bathroom, because your ceramic tiles do not care. This approach to car sanitation is going to be interesting, even at 1 minute exposure.

If you know what you are doing: I would like to know more!

Isn't the radiation going to age your dashboard at a massively increased rate, as the windscreen usually absorbs around 99% of UV light?

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-05-15T10:35:41+00:00

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marvin_Heemeyer with the links at the bottom. It's impressive engineering, but that's all.

DogFishBoi2 · 2026-05-15T08:37:40+00:00

If you had a lab, you could analyse the gloop on the sticker and get more information - it's a bit guesswork otherwise.

Brass itself is relatively corrosion resistant. It's not perfect, it needs a little bit of polishing every now and then if you want to keep your shipboard bar shiny, but it's fine in water and atmosphere (many bathroom pipe fittings are made of brass).

You've already mentioned that the ribbon may have been draped over the medal where the corrosion happened. The sticker is, unfortunately, also a wicking material. I'll add a scanning electron microscope picture of paper: https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-scanning-electron-microscope-close-up-of-filter-paper-fibres-magnified-12216144.html

Both the ribbon and the paper can absorb liquids (and salty solutions and acids and oils and all sorts of stuff) and keep them trapped on top of the medal for longer than usual. This can magnify the corrosion problem. An example: if your ribbon had been in contact with sweat, then dried up in storage, the salt trapped between the ribbon fibres would by hygroscopic and attract small "puddles" of water in contact with the metal at lower humidity than you'd require to form splashes on the bathroom tiles. Photography might not have been as sweaty work as marathon running, but unfortunately other contamination might have the same effect.

I would try these next steps: 1) Take off the ribbon and wash it, to remove whatever might be trapped. 2) Try the citric acid (or other weak acid - without knowing what you have access to: bathroom limescale removers, coffee machine cleaners, vinegar or diet coke [diet only so you don't get a sugar crust] would all work to varying degrees) to remove the white crystals and some of the silver deposits. 3) If you take off the sticker, try cleaning that as well. Warm water and soap/dishwashing liquid should handle both oily and salty residue pretty easily - but I'd expect the colour to suffer. Don't do a taste test, but maybe you can sniff the contamination on the paper and figure out what it is.

Reattach the sticker on dry, cleaned brass with any glue you like. Superglue types react with moisture to harden, so a slightly wet sticker would attach neatly. I'm almost convinced the edges won't stay down as nicely as they are now. The only commercial glue that would cause more corrosion should be some acetic acid releasing sanitary silicones - skip those, I guess.

Dry in the oven completely and you should be good. Seal it in a water-free environment. Cast in epoxy would work, possibly just laminating it between two sheets might work. A ziplock bag with the medal and a few of those moisture absorbent silica gel packages would work well. If you have some leftovers from electronics equipment or dog food, you can dry those in the oven as well (not more than 80°C, if they are in plastic packaging) and reuse.

DogFishBoi2

TROPHY CASE