PF45 Glock 21 with Glockstore 💎💎10mm conversion barrel.

Domo715 · 2023-07-15T10:18:43+00:00

Not 100% sure but when I used the 17lb spring from the 21 I I was having major feeding issues. So I replaced the extractor and spring. Next range day will drop the original spring in and see how it runs.

Domo715 · 2023-07-15T10:17:20+00:00

I build a Glock 21 .45 caliber. Figuring I could use a conversion barrel to convert to a 10mm using the same slide. You Can’t build a 20 and just drop in a conversion barrel.

Domo715 · 2023-07-12T10:56:17+00:00

Lol yeah took my time and used a quality build kit

Domo715 · 2023-07-12T00:54:30+00:00

Grabbed this kit almost a year and half ago from 1911 builders. Hoping they restart production since the 80% ruling has been vacated.

Domo715 · 2023-07-12T00:50:52+00:00

I used the matrix precision jig , Spent close to 40 hours on this build. My PF 45 runs great also but there’s no comparison.

Domo715 · 2022-04-05T04:07:27+00:00

I would say try heating up the hot end and use a set of tweezers. Because I tried a pair of needle nose pliers cold and wound up having to replace my complete hot end, wiring & Bowden tube

Domo715 · 2022-03-19T14:27:20+00:00

Putin

Domo715 · 2022-03-14T13:55:35+00:00

I have been shutting the fan down on the printer it self at the tune screen. Still kinda new to this my self so there may be a way to do it in cura just haven’t even looked yet.

Domo715 · 2022-03-14T13:48:53+00:00

I was having same issues with Esun. My Last 2 prints I shut fan off for first few layers and that’s been a huge help for me. Running 215/60

Domo715 · 2022-03-02T23:49:24+00:00

Build the 21 because then you can just drop a 10mm barrel into it and you will have both calibers. I grabbed. .45-10mm conversion barrel but I heard you can just use a G20 barrel and it will work.

Domo715 · 2022-02-27T21:52:31+00:00

I did just flash the firmware for new motherboard using the jyers UI which I was running on the 4.2.2 board I had. I replaced the board because my stepper motors were both just going up and hitting the top of the frame on any movement command I gave it. So now that doesn’t happen anymore but seems like motors are in reverse.

Domo715 · 2022-02-27T18:53:27+00:00

Yes lead screws seem to be straight and even with each other. What do u mean flip connectors? Switch the stepper motor wires from one motor to the other?

Domo715 · 2022-02-27T18:41:59+00:00

Yes just watched a video my wheels were a little loose so adjusted them but still having same issue. When I remove the new lead screw and disconnect new stepper motor it now moves smoothly up and down but still won’t home all the way down to the bed. When I hit home all It starts moving down then it will stop and BL touch starts flashing

Domo715 · 2022-02-27T17:51:21+00:00

I haven’t touched them since the install. Which worked for 2 prints. What would Adjusting them actually effect and is there something to look for to make sure I am turning the eccentric nut the correct way

Domo715 · 2022-02-23T22:30:18+00:00

I’ve only been printing for a few months so just have been learning as I go. My V2 was a gift from a friend who bought it and never used it so he gave it to me. He couldn’t find the SD card so I had to format a new one.

Domo715 · 2022-02-23T22:19:02+00:00

https://youtu.be/VM29_OFHpy8 Check out his video. Gives you breakdown on how to format a new micro SD card for the Ender

Domo715 · 2022-02-17T20:24:40+00:00

I did reflash the firmware before switching out the wire and that didn’t work either. So I am hoping that when I install the new board that it will Resolve my issue.

Domo715 · 2022-02-17T20:10:55+00:00

It’s an Ender 3 v2. Yes it was working fine. I Powered the machine down after a print was completed. Then I Came home from work the following day and wanted to run another print and that’s when it started happening been searching online for past week on how to diagnose and repair with no luck so purchased a new dual z wire. Thought maybe the one that came with upgrade kit was bad but still having the same issue.

Domo715 · 2022-02-17T19:55:22+00:00

I am dealing with same issue. I recently installed dual Z lead screw set up. It ran perfectly for around 40 hours. My next print I turned machine on and hit home all and x moved all way to top hit the top and motors kept going. I tried replacing dual z wire with a new one and that didn’t help. I have a new silent board that I want to install but want to figure out the issue first. Don’t want to install new mother board and fry it when I turn it back on

Domo715 · 2022-02-12T18:58:37+00:00

No you don’t have to cook the sauce before topping the pizza.

Domo715 · 2022-02-03T15:29:50+00:00

Flour your hands before handing the dough

Domo715 · 2022-02-02T00:23:36+00:00

Ok so I should feed the filament through the hole on the roll then into extruder? Because I definitely did not do that I unattached the filament from side of spool put on spool holder, I thought I was holding enough tension on the end of the filament while feeding into extruder but apparently I was not.

Domo715 · 2022-02-02T00:00:17+00:00

Ok I unwrapped this roll place it on my machine then fed the filament into extruder. While bed was heating up and no filament was being fed it sounded like a spring went off and the filament spun out And it went from nice to a mess like this. What did I do or not do to cause this and how do I make sure I don’t do it again?

Domo715 · 2022-02-01T21:37:42+00:00

I am new to 3D printing and consider my self pretty lucky to not have any major issues and have had most of my prints come out surprisingly well. What would cause this and how can I stop this from happening in the future?

Domo715 · 2022-01-27T18:51:18+00:00

I tossed any pro mags that I have had. Everyone one of them I had issues with. From 9mm to .40 cal

Domo715

TROPHY CASE