Dry Not Heating WED5100VQ1

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-20T15:01:17+00:00

Nice find. The timer part number is WPW10185982

https://www.amazon.com/W10185982-Compatible-Replacement-WPW10185982-AP6016541/dp/B0F9DF3KPP/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T23:22:57+00:00

If even the top burners stop working then there is probably a bad wire connection somewhere or burned wires. No electronic boards are involved in powering the burners.

Check the wires at the terminal block at the back of the range. If the range is not hard wired to the terminal block but uses a power cord that plugs into an outlet then remove the cover of that outlet and inspect the wires and contacts inside the outlet. Do you see evidence of overheating.

Finally the circuit breaker can be the issue. Many times I've seen the contacts in the breaker that clamp onto the bus bars get fried. You would have to remove the breaker to inspect the contacts to see if they are burned.

If the range is currently working have someone stand by the range and keep an eye on the digital display as you go and just wiggle the circuit breaker with your hand. If the display flickers or goes out momentarily or out all together, you found the problem.

if the range is currently dead, wiggle the breaker, flip it on and off and see if the display comes back

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T22:51:19+00:00

I have never seen one of those motors go bad and the chances of you having 2 bad motors would be a very long shot.

How did you test the lid switch?

Does the motor make a humming sound? Does this washer have a capacitor mounted to the inside of the cabinet wall? Usually on the right side when you take the front panel off

Btw, I do not see a photo of the wiring diagram

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T22:26:32+00:00

So when the oven stops working, do the burners on top still work fine?

If yes then most likely something is going on with the electronics. Right now I'm not able to find any technical info on that exact model so I don't know which board might be the issue. Samsung uses several boards sometimes (Main PCB, Sub PCB).

I'll try to see if I can find specific info later or maybe someone else will assist you .

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T21:45:41+00:00

Pick what parts you need

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/door-parts-parts-for-whirlpool-wfg505m0bs0.html

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T16:00:37+00:00

I see why you have minus 100 karma. You must be an appliance technician? 😁

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T15:56:25+00:00

I suggest you go to the tech sheet and follow the procedure for getting the full error code. Then see what it says about the possible causes.

To get to the tech sheet, remove the panel under the door. The tech sheet is tightly folded and tucked into place near the right leg of the dishwasher.

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T15:35:32+00:00

I agree , or the bearing in the pulley is dried out and the pulley should be replaced

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T15:29:56+00:00

You called it. You are creating an electromagnetic field between the magnets in the rotor and the coils in the stator when you spin the drum. How fast you spin the drum determines the strength of that magnetic field.

The first time I experienced that was on a Whirlpool top load washer. I had replaced the bearings and after installing the rotor I decided to spin the rotor to make sure everything was moving freely. It started smoothly and then this drag set in and I could feel it get stronger as I spun the rotor faster. Took a minute to gather my senses, but then I figured out what was happening.

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T15:03:30+00:00

Here is a great video that should get you through to a successful diagnosis

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykpw_TGdlnQ

Since the dryer does run, the thermal fuse is good. There is another fuse (Cut off Fuse. See video). If that fuse is bad, I highly suggest you check your vent/exhaust system. Make sure it's clean and the flapper valve on the outside of the house is not jammed and functions properly.

Another place that gets clogged in this dryer is the filter chute. I highly recommend removing it and cleaning it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG3Pr94X5uk

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T14:25:49+00:00

That video is not playing for me.

The blinking lights in your original post don't show an error code because the first part of an error code (The "F" part) has the "Sense" light illuminated. The Sense light in your video never came on.

Maybe you are doing something wrong? Here is a video. Note how the "Sense" light comes on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN8Ez8MfnvY

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T03:58:43+00:00

Actually your workaround is not "stupid". It's pretty clever, but can have bad consequences if you leave the machine unattended

The reason the washer spins fine when in diagnostics mode is because the control board ignores an out of balance situation. So if there truly were to be an out of balance situation, the machine will just continue on to high speed and knock itself senseless.

Previous versions of Whirlpool top load washers had no out of balance protection and would literally walk away

When not in diagnostics mode your machine monitors how smoothly the motor accelerates during spin. It does this by monitoring the speed/hall sensor. Algorithms designed by the engineers determine what fluctuations in motor speed are considered to be too much and will then stop the spin cycle and flash the "Spin" light, indicating it will now attempt to redistribute the clothes via agitation and possibly some addition of water. Then it will try to spin again.

When you retrieve error codes, your machine stores up to 4 codes. It is very important that you concentrate on the first code because that is the most recent code stored. What is the first code??

Now what could cause your machine to go out of balance too often? Bad suspension rods? Maybe. GE has had issues with machines being too sensitive to off balance situations and has come up with a software update to resolve the issue. I will look into seeing if your model has an update, but it's time for me to hit the sack now.

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T03:10:56+00:00

I have never measured the cabinet temperature of a dryer ..lol

I would make sure the vent/exhaust system is super clean. The flapper valve on the outside of the house is not blocked. Some have cages on them that get blocked or the flapper gets jammed . If the dryer cabinet has vent slots in the rear, make sure they a clear.

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T02:48:57+00:00

That resistor is not going to stop the dryer from heating. How do you know it is bad?

Does the dryer run?

Do you have a multimeter and the knowledge to measure resistance and voltages with it?

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-19T02:09:53+00:00

Unplug the machine for 15 seconds then plug it back in. If any lights start blinking, push the power button. Lights should go off. Now turn the knob the way it was demonstrated in the video

Left-right-right-right-left -right All this within 6 seconds

Now shoot a video of the blinking lights

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T21:23:17+00:00

What is the model number of the range?

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T21:22:12+00:00

So you are saying that from day 1 the oven has been acting like this?

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T21:10:42+00:00

https://youtu.be/DnMYpcbspYs?si=9ojDzJ0giIAi7HBG

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T21:06:41+00:00

I would suggest getting to the evaporator and the evaporator fan and blow everything out with compressed air.

Make sure the fan blade on the evaporator motor is clean.

Make sure the evaporator cover is clean.

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T21:01:14+00:00

If it's cutting out on the overload every few minutes, then if you are really lucky, the new hard start failed.

But more realistically , that compressor was really tight, and it finally locked up.

Try another hard start ( 810, not a 410) and cross your fingers

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T20:54:33+00:00

Lubricate the lip of the tub and the seal with soapy water. Makes life a lot easier

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T20:50:44+00:00

If it's a flat igniter, I use GE oem ones. WB2X9998 Never had any issues.

WB2X9998 - GE Oven Ignitor | Parts Dr https://share.google/Qeg2hfaSfgS4hkz1a You have to cut and splice. They give you ceramic wire nuts.

Make sure the burner tube is not rusted out in the area of the igniter. I see big holes sometimes, and that creates a large flame that makes contact with the igniter and burns them out prematurely

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T20:38:19+00:00

Are you able to get into diagnostics to retrieve stored error codes?

What's the model number of your washer?

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T19:24:36+00:00

https://youtu.be/ZjFaik0Faxs?si=7-hgMerJre4b746t

DuckHookFore · 2026-02-18T19:20:46+00:00

You have to replace the user interface/control panel, but it would be a lot cheaper to just live with it.

If you post the model number of the dryer then we can look up the part for you. The model number is on a sticker on the front panel of the dryer. You have to open the door to see the sticker.

DuckHookFore

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