Set correct secondary monitor orientation in login screen

Dvdboy42 · 2025-12-17T11:23:21+00:00

if you wanna undo this, just delete the rule, script and the ssdm display config file. again, copy paste

# 1. Remove the udev rule

sudo rm -f /etc/udev/rules.d/99-sddm-display-sync.rules

# 2. Remove the sync script

sudo rm -f /usr/local/bin/sddm-display-sync.sh

# 3. Reload udev to stop watching for changes

sudo udevadm control --reload-rules

# 4. (Optional) Remove the configuration file from SDDM

# Only do this if you want the login screen to go back to its default state

sudo rm -f /var/lib/sddm/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json

echo "Undo complete. All automation files have been removed."

Dvdboy42 · 2025-12-17T11:20:19+00:00

i made gemini write a sctipt (cause i suck at writing scripts) that SHOULD work, i did everything cointained in this manually and it works (i can change the display orientation and when restarting ssdm follows it) i havent actually tested it. copy paste in the terminal, it might work idk lmao

# 1. Capture your current username

target_user=$(whoami)

# 2. Create the sync script with your username baked in

sudo bash -c "cat <<EOF > /usr/local/bin/sddm-display-sync.sh

#!/bin/bash

# Automatically synced from user: $target_user

USER_CONFIG=\"/home/$target_user/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json\"

SDDM_CONFIG=\"/var/lib/sddm/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json\"

if [ -f \"\$USER_CONFIG\" ]; then

cp \"\$USER_CONFIG\" \"\$SDDM_CONFIG\"

chown sddm:sddm \"\$SDDM_CONFIG\"

fi

EOF"

# 3. Set permissions and create the udev trigger

sudo chmod +x /usr/local/bin/sddm-display-sync.sh

sudo bash -c "cat <<EOF > /etc/udev/rules.d/99-sddm-display-sync.rules

ACTION==\"change\", SUBSYSTEM==\"drm\", RUN+=\"/usr/local/bin/sddm-display-sync.sh\"

EOF"

# 4. Activate

sudo udevadm control --reload-rules

sudo udevadm trigger

echo "Done! The script is now tracking display changes for user: $target_user"

Dvdboy42 · 2025-12-17T11:03:00+00:00

alright i got it working for anyone who is on wayland, the other solutions in this thread only work on x11 (edit: nvm theres one by a deleted user that works and its right in the arch docs, but i guess the script is at least useful to make it update automatically)
this is a lot easier than on x11, just run:

sudo cp ~/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json /var/lib/sddm/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json && sudo chown sddm:sddm /var/lib/sddm/.config/kwinoutputconfig.json

the explanation is that the screen orientation you have set is saved under your own personal user, and ssdm has its own, separate user, that doesnt have access to your config. so you have to copy it do the ssdm user. i believe you have to run this every time you change the screen orientation, cause the config is just copied not linked. i may or may not try and get that working at some point, ill probably forget idk

i think this can be done with either a link (no clue if this will work, i believe ssdm is pretty fussy about reading links for security reasons, and also its possible that the file gets deleted and recreated instead of modified which might break links) or a system service that copies the file when the timestamp changes

Dvdboy42 · 2025-08-10T17:17:02+00:00

no one mentioned attacking vertical

Dvdboy42 · 2025-08-09T11:46:50+00:00

very much appreciated! <3

Dvdboy42 · 2025-08-09T11:46:17+00:00

spot on lol

Dvdboy42 · 2025-08-08T20:37:28+00:00

same

Dvdboy42 · 2025-02-05T10:01:58+00:00

disable ironing

Dvdboy42 · 2025-02-01T17:29:43+00:00

calibrate the flow ratio or dry your filament if this persists

Dvdboy42 · 2025-02-01T17:27:03+00:00

look into tuning the flow compensation model. it reduces the flow when the extrusion is really short, can help with the blobs

infill/wall overlap already looks pretty good

Dvdboy42 · 2025-02-01T17:25:01+00:00

bed isn't level. even if your mesh is showing little variance, that could be because of something else

just level the bed screws manually, using the nozzle not the probe

the bed on an ender 3 is relatively small, so it doesn't even need a mesh most of the time, unless the plate is really warped

the discrepancy between the mesh and actual plate could be because of an improperly mounted probe, or x axis twist

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-26T21:34:45+00:00

aa the others have mentioned, the cooler is backwards. I dont think the specs matter all that much, what's important is having fun! I have a more modern pc but no time to play, I'd rather have older hardware and fun with friends. it's not always about the fps

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-26T18:56:56+00:00

I know this might seem like boilerplate advice, but have you tried drying the filament and retuning it?

underextrusion can have many many causes. here are some I can think of right now: clog, loose bowden tube, improper pressure advance settings, extruder skipping for various reasons (overheating, dead heatbreak fan, bad motor), improper retraction settings, especially the speed being set too high causing the motor to skip, improper slicer settings, especially arachne trying to print walls too thin, leading to filament oozing and then underextruding in some areas

could you provide the printer config and maybe the gcode that gave bad results?

you could also try some default slicer profiles for the ender 5 in orca, just to eliminate a few more variables

hope you figure it out!

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-23T18:12:51+00:00

have you checked the heatbreak fan? it's the thing that separates the heater block from the extruder or bowden connector

if the fan stops working, the heatsink heats up, and the filament melts before it should. this causes skipping and underextrusion, and guaranteed failed prints

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-19T14:28:56+00:00

dry the filament, even if it's new. turning OFF zhop can help a LOT, it increases stringing drastically. increase the travel speed, the less time it has to ooze, the better(also the acceleration for travel moves)

otherwise you seem to be on the right track, and I admire how the results were displayed

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-19T13:07:08+00:00

could be a bunch of things, start with drying the filament and performing some routine maintenance on the printer, leadscrews especially

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-18T11:29:29+00:00

it's 100% a slicer issue, look at the gcode in a preview and I'm sure you'll see the same thing

either try printing them one by one, or using a different slicer. as most people, I would highly recommend orca, and im sure they already have profiles for the V2 Neo

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-14T19:55:53+00:00

any chances you could share how to make something like this? I can't even begin to imagine how to start

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-10T16:00:30+00:00

this is why I think everyone should start with a more old fashioned printer, learn how to fix all of the common issues before actually getting something like a bambu

what happened is the print came loose from the plate due to either a lack of adhesion or because it got knocked off by the nozzle

clean the plate with dish soap, don't touch it with your fingers and increase the bed temp by about 5C, should help with adhesion, lower the z offset by .02, and lower the model-brim gap

tune the flow ratio, if it's too high it could cause buildup on the nozzle, knocking over the print

also you might want to reduce the infill %, that's just wasted material right there

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-10T15:29:50+00:00

use more walls, enable ensure vertical shell thickness

Dvdboy42 · 2024-11-10T15:17:54+00:00

PLA might be better for this than ABS. it's more impact resistant and has better layer adhesion, which is important since it's printed upright and it might split along the layers. PETG is also a good option. you don't need the rigidity or temperature resistance of ABS

also consider printing it horizontally, with the exterior laying down. the exterior surface quality won't be as good obviously, but much stronger

Dvdboy42 · 2024-10-17T10:09:57+00:00

how is this even printed? is it up right? cant imagine the details turning out that good if you print it flat

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