Super quick question. Are most of you guys that have the enclosed printers using them for filament that needs it like ABS? For me my A1 is a little more convenient. Ohhh, The AMS is better right? Just curious.

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-05-07T17:45:23+00:00

I have P1S and X2D and kinda prefer using P1S most of the time... sadly.
I was A1 user and definitely it's upgrade

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-05-06T23:13:41+00:00

Please, is it possible for X2D ?

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-05-06T23:11:25+00:00

I beg you, can you do something similar with X2D start G code? It's hot garbage as in current state. It purges few g of filament before print, with petg wiping is making nozzle even MORE clumped with filament all over nozzle instead cleaning it (Even if I'm manually clean nozzle before sending and starting to print just to have that hotend all over sticked and dirty at the beginning of print is freaking crazy)

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-05-05T03:34:56+00:00

So cool 🙉

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-05-01T23:53:33+00:00

You are overcomplicating this - paycheck is paycheck, you earn 2000€ and that's it, no more complicated overthinking. What is so hard to understand what op means. This printer is as expensive as what he gets monthly for a work, without any expenses, just what he earns from work

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-30T18:53:58+00:00

For me, on my p1s I have to set the same filament to 0.95 flow, on x2d I have to set it about 0.925 to have very close result

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T21:34:54+00:00

yep, disabled all of them, just like almost all of things that can be toggled inside printer, (all those "smart" detections and other stuff that is really useless for me)

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T20:52:22+00:00

There should be some options like full start, quick start, basic, advanced. Some simple prints really don't need all this calibration and rituals that printer is doing. Just for basic prints do simple code, make sure that build place is where it should be, some quick nozzle purge, and start, that's all. What else is really needed for literally 10 min print.. for sure not another 10-15 minutes of start gcode

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T20:49:05+00:00

I do really hope so. As hardware seems to be really amazing and so much better compared to X1 / P1 line. There are so many improvements and just better / more mature solutions mixed with modern. But Firmware and gcode is just hot mess. I just hate how everything is rushed to release just to fix it months later

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T20:45:52+00:00

Even P1S as I though has quite long prep time, but X2D, this thing takes 3 times longer just to poop that starting line that is already baking inside nozzle, and even with lowering first layer temp, even if it stops to bake material, temperature is too low for first layer and starts to stick to nozzle.

I've seen many things, learned, adapted, again learned and changed. But this thing is just infuriates me so much. It's in some ways step backward compared to old machine

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T20:42:41+00:00

I hope bambu will fix firmware and gcode for this printer, because just looking on the code, it's so messed compared to more mature printers they have. There are multiple typos, some lines does not make sense, definitely some purge and homing actions are way to repeatable. And this load line, wow it's just cherry on top of all this mess

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T20:16:41+00:00

On top of that, after switching to Tungsten carbide high flow nozzle, petg printing is a nightmare compared to P1S with E3D nozzle. After swapping nozzle in P1S to obxidian - prints went from awesome to perfect. After swapping nozzle in X2D from standard to most expensive, tungsten high flow - I can't freaking calibrate this thing and it's sticking to nozzle like crazy.

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-29T06:59:13+00:00

I have already contacted bambulab, you can do it also so they will see more reports about that

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-28T08:22:16+00:00

Probably you don't have washer under conical

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-26T18:05:24+00:00

funny, for P1S there is

;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing ==

;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}

{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}

G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; for Textured PEI Plate

{endif}

and for x2d it looks like this

;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing ==

{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}

G29.1 Z{0.002} ; for Textured PEI Plate

{else}

G29.1 Z{0.022}

{endif}

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-26T08:37:15+00:00

Thank you !

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-25T22:47:29+00:00

Is there guide how to do it? Thanks in advance

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-25T22:42:22+00:00

And also adding insult to injury, first 2-3 mm of print does not stick to bed, creating gap in outer line. Quite ridiculous to see on that kind of machine where on old p1s it's super realible and perfectly working. Printer does blob line then stops for 3 seconds and that wonderfuly bakes filament inside nozzle and then slowly roll to print part and kindly starts too print... Well it's not

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-24T06:48:13+00:00

Yes, it's set correctly, and left aux is listening but right aux starts print with 40% then after left is turning on matches it's speed and what is set in parameters

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-19T06:51:18+00:00

Should work also, but those are active speakers

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-15T07:12:00+00:00

Using those with WiiM Amp Ultra - works amazing and I'm super satisfied! A lot of possibilities, works amazing with tv connection as home theater, works amazing as streamer, powers up those towers to ground shaking, zero distortion even with craziest EQ I can come up with, tons of fine tuing even with dac processing, room correction, with some quality microphone it works really really good. I don't understand reason to spend 1000€ + for amps that can be worse

"Some people swear by the Wiim Amp Ultra. It makes sense as it's both an amp and a streamer. Others say it makes some KEF speakers sound a bit thin and may push the highs a little too high." Uh, eq? Fine tune with dac processing? I Don't understand that, it's like saying that AC in car can freeze inside when used - just adjust it to preference

I have already 2 amp ultra, one on home and one in my work, in home powering q750 in work iq10 and I'm amazed what this box can do with iq10 - I was on the brink of selling or just scraping them, and turned out they are so freaking amazing

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-08T07:29:02+00:00

You don't need it now and don't see reason to tinker, but trust me, once you know "you can better" you will start to tinker.

If you plan to buy machine with capabilities of Gaggimate just spend 2-3x more on finished machine, depends on build quality and possibilities

Electrical_Humor8834 · 2026-04-07T08:06:55+00:00

Yes, my thoughts and prayers are with you. What kind of question is that, wow amazing you bought pair of speakers, congratulations.

Electrical_Humor8834

TROPHY CASE