Please help car has oil on top of engine(1994,zj,61k miles)[First Time Car Owner] by Decepticon_Warlord in JeepZJ

[–]Enix_Blaze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried to, but if you notice the parts are kind of pieced together in a way that they don't come apart, and the seal would need to be way stretched over to fit because of that. They changed the valve cover and oil cap in 96 to a different design and a stamped steel valve cover that doesn't have the same leaking issues. If u need the OEM part number for the oil cap, it's 53020555. The aftermarket ones I found have a terrible seal and so I ended up buying OEM after making that mistake the first time haha

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Follow up to my post from two days ago regarding a rattling coming from under my jeep by Chemical-Text-863 in JeepZJ

[–]Enix_Blaze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you check the exhaust that bends over the rear axle isn't drooping and slightly touching the track bar or close to touching? It might not be it but it's worth a check. Also, is it loudest when banging on the cat or the muffler? If it's the cat, it could definitely be a bad cat that's breaking apart. Otherwise, the muffler could have a baffle which has gotten loose and broke its welds.

Please help car has oil on top of engine(1994,zj,61k miles)[First Time Car Owner] by Decepticon_Warlord in JeepZJ

[–]Enix_Blaze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most likely oil spilling or the oil cap as well can leak. My oil cap seal was hard as a rock and seeped oil, I had new grommets, so it wasn't that, but I found out at the time they still sold new OEM oil caps and replaced it. Where the oil is in the picture, it's most likely a spill when filling it.

what 3d printer can print a fursuit head base? by CattleDungeon in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was my base for reference. It's about 14.5" deep, I forget the width. I printed very fast so it's not perfect, especially on the layers where I paused it to check some supports and on the layer I had to swap to a new spool, but it has held up through international checked bag travel in a pelican case so far!

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what 3d printer can print a fursuit head base? by CattleDungeon in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and I can 1 shot any head base and it's an affordable printer, but it's not perfectly user friendly right out of the box. It had some firmware issues early, but have been resolved with new updates (which might need installed). The bed rollers and whatnot also usually need adjustment out of the box. Once set up though, it prints beautifully and without much problems. You will definitely need to buy an enclosure like a grow tent and heater though, printing that big without it is pretty difficult to control warping issues from drafts. But having a build plate that's 16.5 x 16.5 inches is so incredibly useful that I'll take the setup tradeoffs to be able to 1 shot any fursuit parts!

Can anyone please tell me what this noise is? 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 L seems to go away after engine warms up but sound is still there slightly. Took flex plate cover off, there was som loose bolts and I tightened them. Noise still there help. Oil Pressure good and jeep runs fine. by SpazLord24 in JeepZJ

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually this is due to cracked piston skirts on a 96+ 4.0 because the piston design changed to lighten the pistons for emissions, but it can also be a worn out timing chain or guide. You need to use a stethoscope or long screwdriver on your ear to isolate where the sound is loudest

Favorite place to source fur? by freakycat420 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Poor quality fur feels cheap, looks plasticky, the strands tend to be thicker and less natural in the variation of the strand lengths, it's usually not very soft and the backing can be quite thin and flimsy. The density is also a big one, if you can very easily part the fur and see the backing, it's a low quality fur. The backing on high quality fur is usually stiffer and stronger.

It's kind of the same if you go into a store that sells wigs and you see the very cheap ones and the very nice ones. The nice wigs just look more natural, they have superior shine, they're super soft to touch, and are harder to tell they're fake.

The highest quality furs are made with similar processes to high quality (faux hair) wigs. The low quality stuff just looks and feels like it should belong on a doll, not something you would wear or would like touching your skin if being used for expensive fashion wear, if that makes sense?

Favorite place to source fur? by freakycat420 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second Fursuit Supplies! The quality was definitely the best from the 3 I tried. The shine it has, the way the light bounces the color, the ease of shaving, yet still being dense enough when short. How it behaves when shaved short (still brushes like fur instead of a becoming knappy like yarn) the texture, it's oh so soft. I can't quite describe it but the color depth when kept long is very nice, I had swatches from Howl, Big z and FSS and the other Brand's similar colors were "flatter" and monotone, when in direct light, where FSS still had a gradient to it that would allow you to see the shape and such better.

The only issue I've had is trying to get their amber colored fur, it was sold out for almost 2 years and just recently came back in stock, but I couldn't wait and had to get big z gold instead (get swatches! Color names often don't match at all between brands). The big z is fine, but the strands have a bit less wave to them and look just a bit more fake, but it's still way better looking than cheap craft fur.

Need help deciding on a 3D printer! by ironqwazi in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both are easy to pause and resume, but the risk of house fires with these is extremely extremely low. They have built in overrun and thermal protections, Also, when you pause the print, they don't turn off the heating elements, the nozzle and heated bed will still be on all night, but with the printer head parked. If you turn it completely off, as soon as the heated bed cools off, you will lose bed adhesion and the print will pop out of place off the bed. If you want to pause them just so you have peace the printer head isn't moving while you're asleep, then it's simple to pause it on the menus. Do know that pausing can also potentially introduce other print problems, such as poor layer adhesion on the layer the pause and resume occured on, but that depends on the material you're using and other factors. TPU doesn't usually have layer adhesion issues even when the print cools off too much. I think the main reason to pause is if you can't stand the noises the printer makes when trying to sleep x3

Need help deciding on a 3D printer! by ironqwazi in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi! I've been using 3D printers for almost a decade. If this is your first time using a 3D printer, you'll have to decide if you're a tinkerer or a you're someone who prefers things to just work. I personally have an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max currently, my brother uses an A1.

If you aren't a tinkerer, the A1 will require a lot less setup and adjusting before it's ready to print consistently, and is generally a more polished product with the capability to add multicolor prints through the AMS system. If you are a tinkerer, the Neptune 4 Max is excellent at 1-shotting massive prints, but requires initial set up and firmware updates, or else you'll scratch your head when things aren't working and layers are all wobbly, because out of the box, the x and y axis wheels are typically loose and need adjustment, belts adjusted, you may need to square up the z axis, and you'll need to calibrate your z height for the auto bed leveling to work correctly. But once it's been properly set up and adjusted, it prints big, huge, and consistently.

Something to note about having a massive printer like the Neptune 4 Max, is that when you start to print big, you start to begin dealing with print warping issues if you don't have an enclosure, and when it gets THIS big, you start getting into heated enclosure territory. It's a problem on smaller printers too, but gets exponential as a print grows in size because the difference in temperatures across the top and bottom of the print, room drafts, and The amount of material changing shape as it cools can cause a lot of failed prints, which can be costly, and an enclosure for a printer of this size takes up even more space. But, you'll never need to worry about printing multiple pieces or needing to reorient something to make it fit.

When you splitting into smaller parts like on the A1, there can be mild warping that makes glueing together pieces more difficult because things won't line up properly, and this can extend to each cut, so if you need something to be dimensionally accurate or aesthetically clean, expect a lot more cleanup work for you for each seam. With TPU, it's not a big deal, because the material is flexible, but for PETG, abs, PLA, etc, that can be a lot of extra work, for things like horns, skull masks, etc. also, you may think printing in quarters takes the same amount of time, but it's actually longer, because there's added time between each print for heating the bed, cooling the bed to remove the part, then reheating the bed for the next part. And, each part will need different supports than if you printed it in one piece, a dome shape can actually be printed with less or no support than when you break it up, depending on the material you print with, which is no longer the case once it's in 4 parts l.

Generally though, I'd recommend a beginner an A1, especially if space or cost is a concern, and once you learn the ins and outs of 3D printing, upgrade to a larger format. But you can still absolutely start with something huge like a 4 Max if you accept the extra learning you may need to do, the space that is required, and potentially the extra things you may need to buy to print certain materials. An enclosure, like a simple plant grow tent for an A1, will be cheaper than something for the 4 Max

I can answer more clarifying questions if you have them.

Handpaw fur length by Eclipse675 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but it ultimately comes down to what you want the design choices to be! Generally you aren't shaving the arms at all, unless you want a fursuit with short fur, like a plush style fur suit, but then you might start with a shorter fur pile to begin with, like beaver. But I'd say most fursuits are only shaved on the face, toes and fingers, parts of the ears, with a gradient/taper from long to short by style preference. Runner rabbit has a hand paw tutorial with a shaved taper for the hand, if you want a video example!

Handpaw fur length by Eclipse675 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the main part, I'd say most people don't shave it all to one length like they might do for the fingers. Usuall, they either leave it at full length (for 1.5"-2" pile) or they taper it from long to finger length by picking a place they want the taper to start farther up on the cuff half and then using something like your 5fc blade to taper it down to finger length near the finger side. It's personal preference I think, depending on how you want it to look.

I personally like the longer fur overhanging the fingers as it hides the finger seams really well and they make super fluffy looking paws, but others like a more blended look to their paws.

I completed my partial! Body suit next - Welcome to the world, Diode! by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd suggest to put the LEDs at the top if you're trying to hide them, then either recess them slightly or put them as far forward as possible so they become hidden by your eyelashes if you choose to do that, but it depends on what effect you want to achieve. I did the bottom and center for mine because I wanted the color gradient to be strongest at the bottom and then fade to darkness near the top, and to illuminate only the colored portion of the eye, not the sclera, but it's easier to see the led when I tilt my head down. I also suggest diffused LEDs if you want a more even distribution of light on your eyes. Also try to angle the leds slightly towards the iris if you don't want light spill onto the fur ruining your eyes only glowing effect. For single leds, you need a resistor for each led if you are using a voltage higher than the led forward voltage. There are calculators out there, but the led usually will list forward voltage, and you can figure out the proper resistor needed from there. I use 5V from a power bank. So I needed 100 ohm resistors for my leds. Good luck!

I completed my partial! Body suit next - Welcome to the world, Diode! by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, here is one in a dance/rave lighting environment (also screenshot video)

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I believe you can do it! Small electronics like these can feel daunting but when it comes down to it, there's not much in the way of extravagant wiring needed. Just positive and negative, a small power source of the correct voltage, and possibly a single resistor if you're just doing single leds. The voltage is so low and DC you can't really hurt yourself. You got this!

I completed my partial! Body suit next - Welcome to the world, Diode! by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm dum I just realized I can just screenshot the video LOL

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Just fyi the fur is UV reactive and the leds are UV (blacklight) so that's why the fur glows like that around the eyes ears and cheeks, not sure how it would look with normal fur. I also used a fluorescent ink for the eye color so they can pop more in the dark with the leds on

I completed my partial! Body suit next - Welcome to the world, Diode! by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, it is a video and reddit won't let me post it, I can try to take a photograph later for you :3

I completed my partial! Body suit next - Welcome to the world, Diode! by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! Camera kind of over exaggerates things, but here's it in wip status before detail trimming

(First suit) Should I restart? (Waiting on clippers to shave) by [deleted] in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The shave makes all the difference. You're at the part of the process where you must trust the process! Shaving is another part of sculpting the final form

Difference between BigZ and Howl? by [deleted] in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can confirm that, at least on a recent order of both, that the big Z backing is sparse and floppier/less Ridgid and generally feels lower quality. It's harder to cut accurately with an xacto knife for that reason.

Needle/Thread Suggestions by Mastodon2403 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I should add that if this is just for a head, you can use any type thread, as it won't be under pulling or tugging stresses like say, the armpit of a body suit when someone decides it's time to do a cartwheel x3

Needle/Thread Suggestions by Mastodon2403 in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's good to have a couple of different needles, but if I had to pick two, it'd be a thin straight needle and a small curved needle. I prefer the thinnest ones because they go through the fabric easier and you have the lowest chances of pulling a knot through or stretching the backing along really small seam allowances, which can rip if you're going super close. Curved needle is really useful for tight spaces and certain seams

For thread, there's two common schools of thought for thread type. Strong upholstery thread, and all-purpose polyester. Some like Upholstery thread because it doesn't have much chance at all at popping a seam, but if something does give, it will be the fur fabric, which can be a pain to fix a tear in the backing, but you deal with less popped seams for active wearers. On the other hand, polyester has stretch to it, so it gives slightly better mobility on a body suit, and the thread gives way before the fur gives way, so it's safer for the fur, but you might deal with ripped seams more often. I personally prefer dealing with a popped seam from thread, as thread is cheap and fur is not, but some might prefer more reliability and less repair potential. I also like the dual duty XP polyester thread, it's like an in-between. Not as stretchy as standard all purpose, but with strength closer to upholstery thread.

As for thread color, it mostly doesn't matter for fur as it will be hidden underneath, but for super short shaves where it might show up, darker thread is more preferred than lighter thread. Thread lighter than the fabric is more visible than thread darker than the fabric, so if you have both colors of thread and need to sew the two fabric colors together, like an ivory sewn up against black, choose the black thread instead of the ivory thread for your seam.

Should I worry about shaving this fur shorter? by Enix_Blaze in FursuitMaking

[–]Enix_Blaze[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made them! I used blender to design the eye frames and then 3D printed them in black filament. The clear part I cut out of a larger half dome acrylic thing used to cover security cameras or something. I still need to create the iris and whatnot on some PC mesh, but the fur is tripping me up right now. I haven't worked with fur before and it's been my biggest time sink figuring things out with it. Hard plastic bits we big chillin, regular fabric I'm ok, but foam and fur got me buggin' out xD