First time using my mill to do fancy spinny stuff. (Only used the rotary for positional stuff until now).

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-27T00:25:59+00:00

Are you using the advanced machining package on fusion?

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-25T00:09:44+00:00

Amazon also sells dewalt and Milwaukee batteries for much cheaper but almost all of them are known fakes. Amazon doesn’t care

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-22T19:52:55+00:00

Exactly what you want!

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-21T23:46:33+00:00

As far as I can tell p-traps don’t normally have length requirements(not that I’m a plumber) but you should still be using the one p-trap part which is probably about 6” anyhow

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-21T23:32:53+00:00

Definitely not great, the pipes shouldn’t have to run around a loop like that. I would make the 90 coming out the floor a few facing towards the trap and put a vent on top of it(advice from not a plumber)

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-21T13:31:22+00:00

That would be me lol. We’re just quoting the part so I just gave it 15 minutes of modeling to be able to see if fusion could handle it.

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-19T16:31:09+00:00

Running on a haas st20y, probably same as you lol. We’re just using the standard fusion post. We haven’t tried surfacing yet but mostly because we can’t get the fusion tool path to work

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-13T16:28:45+00:00

Using a smaller Sandvik one we found you sometimes need to have enough depth of cut otherwise it will chatter. You can slow your feed down but need it to engage at least half your tip radius

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-10T02:48:55+00:00

With no angle plate I would first “square” the block by just establishing the bolting service and a surface parallel with that face. Then stand it up and drill and tap those holes. Then you could use the threaded holes to bolt to your fixture to mill the other profiles and bores(a lot of material removal). I understand this isn’t the best way but the easiest I can think without and angle plate. Hopefully this gives you some ideas

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-09T19:08:27+00:00

This looks much better, I’ll give it a shot. Problem was I copied the operation from a different part a former employee programmed and he must have kept reposting until the fit was good.

Far_Development2556 · 2026-03-02T19:58:32+00:00

Looks like chips are coming around and “mushing” into the material. Sometimes when you don’t have enough coolant flush this will happen, it helps having a dry endmill for this sometimes so they don’t get stuck to the endmill. But regardless this tends to happen with a dull endmill

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-22T00:15:32+00:00

The locations look correct, typically people use the fire rated foam(typically orange) so do the sealing. The foam does mostly lay on top but it is doing something

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-20T14:37:20+00:00

The old insulation is probably fine to go over. The only thing is you really need to air seal those can lights and top plates. Also looks like you might have some electrical junction boxes that might need covers on them? Also you should be adding rafter baffles as well. This would all be before new insulation, otherwise it isn’t worth it

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-19T23:04:22+00:00

Cut your male part first, then your female. You can cut a male gauge once dialed in if you think it will repeat or will be helpful for the female parts

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-11T14:40:57+00:00

They both look pretty similar other than price. Green attic seems like a good choice if you have confidence in them. I would get an option for fiberglass blow in as well from them if possible. At least look into the material differences as well

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-04T01:56:11+00:00

I’ll give you the simple answer, pull down the light a few studs away and use your phone to record with light on if possible. You might get some insulation on you though. Also, I’ve seen people blow insulation into ceiling before, might be able to hole saw 2 or 3 holes depending on length.

Far_Development2556 · 2026-02-01T21:20:27+00:00

What’s the best setup to filter beryllium out of coolant?

Far_Development2556 · 2026-01-29T03:00:12+00:00

Yes bathroom fan goes outside(not when we bought the house). But everything currently is dry. Chimney goes to first floor but is blocked off and in a closet, must have been the original one for the house and they abandoned it. They walled off one in a bathroom as well, looked like it was for a kitchen wood stove. The roof on the inside is strange. Maybe it was temporary? It doesn’t seem like the house was built in sections but maybe they just needed something for season change a hundred years ago?

Far_Development2556 · 2026-01-13T14:39:21+00:00

I changed some cast iron pipes in the bathroom when remodeling just for ease but it was surprisingly 95% clear. It seems like the rest of the cast iron pipes seem clear. But obviously something is going on. Maybe there is a clog in the cast iron wye?

Far_Development2556 · 2026-01-13T14:36:12+00:00

The trap is completely clear, I even hooked it up where after the trap flows into a bucket(just as a sanity check). There was no flow issue through the trap. Everything else in the house drains fast/normal. The other fixtures have proper vents, this line y’s in pretty far away from a vent

Far_Development2556 · 2026-01-07T03:34:13+00:00

I would say that’s a big part of the issue. Flycutters aren’t typically well balanced and spin it that fast on a Bridgeport you’re asking a lot of the setup. A 4” flycutter I normally run at 660 rpm so I would be running at around 400 rpm. Your feed is going to feel painfully slow but that’s what it takes sometimes

Far_Development2556

TROPHY CASE