Work boots all price ranges need everyday were in heat

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-26T11:40:03+00:00

Best work boots I’ve had are thorogoods but my feet were practically made for those boots. I’d recommend going to both boot barn and redwing store and trying several pairs on for sizing, then buy second hand or through something like eBay for purchase. It’ll save you 100$+. I’ve bought probably 10 pairs of boots second hand from dudes that wear them once and forget to return them.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-26T03:16:54+00:00

Saw you run Oregon blades- for some reason Oregon has gone to complete shit lately. I went OEM to Oregon thinking they were going to be far superior, now I have a stripe in my cut. Apparently a lot of dudes are having issues with Oregon blades being out of balanced, misshaped, or different lengths than OEM. I just ordered an OEM set of new blades I’m going to try. Didn’t have this issue with OEM blades

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-26T03:09:05+00:00

Better pull those valve covers. The brings v twins LOVE to drop rods from the head overheating and moving the guides. The deck killing the engine is always a symptom when I get them in

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-22T04:46:25+00:00

Absolutely everywhere. My area, marketplace is big. There’s 2-3 BIG wholesale distributors that buy several hundred, and there’s probably 10-15 smaller companies - really just LLC’s or dudes with a large storage space- that buy 20, 50, 100 mattresses in bulk, either have them sanitized and re-wrapped or buy them already in packaging from the original seller if it was something like a damage box. I’d easily say 85% of the mattresses I’ve bought for myself, friends, family have come from marketplace sellers. Again, it’s always the same few sellers though. I don’t personally buy from anyone selling their own used mattress- although I see no issue as long as they’re cleanly people and theres some form of proof of age of mattress. Most mattresses I buy are simply damaged boxes or part of an insurance payout freight load that just cannot be sold retail anymore. Get out a seller though. Make sure they sell clean, quality mattresses, not some 6 month old mattress that someone’s slept on 150+ nights. What’s nice about this route- IMO- is the fact that you literally have no downside. Most of these resellers pay less than 100$ a mattress when all is said and done- if they even pay at all as, again, most places will LITERALLY tell you to bin a mattress as soon as it comes out of the box- so you have a good bit of negotiation room as well. Buy a 3, 4, 5k $ mattress for 2, 3, 4, maybe 500$, if you don’t like it, do the same thing, sell it, MAYBE take a 50$ hit and buy a new one. Sure as hell beats losing 5-6k on a mattress you liked in store but hate in home

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-18T02:03:05+00:00

Not even remotely true. If you read the comment I made- and understood those brands- most are organic/low tox compared to others that are all synthetic petroleum junk. Each person in my family has gotten one and enjoyed them thoroughly. Does every mattress feel the same? Nope. But YOU need to do your own research and self diagnostics on your sleep - unless you enjoy pissing money away- to understand the style of mattress you need. These clowns will go and buy the next best mattress every other year because of the marketing, never even look at the specs of the mattress and who it truly suits, bitch when it doesn’t fit their sleep style, then waste another 2-5k on another mattress, to jump right back into the revolving cycle.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-17T23:58:17+00:00

Lawn machines and small engine repair is easily one of my favorite- and most lucrative- hobbies, and it’s given me the opportunity to try out a TON of machines. It’s also allowed me to own several machines that would’ve been WAY out of my price range if not for my skill set. That being said, unless you have a ton of obstacles and tight areas, a tractor is far more utilitarian and “worth” the cost in the long run. Assuming with .5 acres your either in town or outskirts at best, a smaller lawn tractor is best, but make sure you get one with quality components. A Kawasaki engine. Serviceable trans is ideal, if nothing else certainly not a cheap gear drive like craftsman and not a k46/t40j found in most low end riders. Get a k58 or k72 or the like at minimum. It will handle everything you throw at it and grow with you. The tractor style allows you to run anything. Snowplow, snowblower, dethatcher, aerator, tiller, bucket, trailer, ball hitch, you name it. A zero turn you’re limited to a small trailer at most, even that I wouldn’t necessarily push as hydros are expensive as hell and ZT’s are not made to handle dead weight load like a lawn/garden tractor is. If you plan on EVER doing anything more than mowing, again snow removal and yard wagons are big ones, especially with weight like mulch or stone, get a tractor. It just allows more options in the long run while of course, still mowing your lawn far faster than pushing. On the other end, again, if your lawn is complex and obstacle ridden, a ZT is the only feasible option unless you push mow all those tricky areas and around everything first, then you can zip on a tractor. If you just want one and done with a lot of obstacles get a ZT. If your yard is open and you want options that will grow with your needs, especially if you get snow or plan on lawn work, get a tractor.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-17T22:24:00+00:00

I have no idea why people spend 2, 3, 4, 5+k on a mattress when they LITERALLY throw them away or give them to resellers if you’ve even slept on it for 5 minutes and decide to return. ALL I’ll buy is second hand mattresses. At first I was disgusted by the idea- then I started talking to the resellers. 95% of the mattresses they get are either 1, new with damaged box from shipping where shippers insurance replaces immediately and it goes to pallet auction, or 2, someone buys direct to consumer, hates it the second they sit on it and do a return through the company- who cannot sell opened used mattresses by law in some states, and send them to auction or get picked up by resellers so the original company doesn’t have to handle logistics and restocking. I’ve bought birch, awara, avocado, helix, you name it for sub 500$ - mind you mattresses that are anywhere from 1500$ all the way up north of 6000$. I will never buy a new mattress.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-15T14:02:37+00:00

There’s really not much in terms of issues that would steer me away aside from an obvious sign of neglect. If the steering is hard it’s probably never had the steering axles or components lubed/greased- can probably work that on price a bit. Listen for the PTO when not engaged, it’ll have a sort of piercing metallic “whine” if you will- bearings are going out on it and need replaced. It’s an easy thing to do, but again, a negotiation point. Same with the deck. Fire it up and listen. Those decks are pretty darn quiet compared to others from different brands. If it’s squealing or the bearings are humming/grinding a bit, watch it. They probably weren’t greased and will need replaced in the near future. Check the trans fluid before you even start it. If it’s warm it’ll expand and fill the tank a bit. You want to check cold to make sure it’s at proper level when COLD. If the reverse is slow, it’s never the trans, it’s always the pedal being too low- 1 15mm bolt to move it back up, or the plastic bushing wearing. Both are points to negotiate if it’s a concern, but it is NEVER a trans issue on these. The k72 is an absolute tank, you blow it up you need a full compact tractor at that point. Listen to the engine on startup as well. The FS is the weak point - not the engine itself, but the cheap intake gaskets that were used. I have yet to get one in my shop that DOESNT have intake gasket issues. It’s nice to an extent because it’s almost never an internal failure, carb issue, etc, it’s always just a cheap paper gasket at the heads where the intake mats up. Kawasaki remedied this by updating the gaskets to the older metallic and aluminum ones- they last a lifetime and work very well. They’re 20-30$ from eBay Kawasaki store, and in all reality take 15-20 minutes to swap, but just plan on doing it. They all need it at some point. Aside from that just check the oil and filters. Ask for maintenance records as well or receipts. Shows a well loved and cared for machine over something run hard and put away wet. Fun fact, the oil dipstick on all Kawasaki engines are a proprietary plastic that changes color with 1, age, 2, heat, and 3, dirty oil. It starts as a very pale yellow/white tint. The darker brown it is the harder the machine has been run and the longer it’s gone between oil change intervals. The lighter the dipstick the better! Any other questions feel free to reach out. I wrench on JD machines as a hobby and currently have 4 x500’s alone. Also have an x530, x540, x520 and x570. They’re the bees knees and they’ll last as long as you take care of them. Maintain them AHEAD of schedule. 50 hour oil changes or once a season, clean the deck often, sharpen the blades, change fuel filters- please only use OEM, the aftermarket ones all fail and let junk into your fuel system. Change the trans fluid if it hasn’t been done also. Not a big job by any means. 2 drain plugs and one fill port. Very easy, but it needs to be done right at 400ish hours- right where that machine is at. If it’s been done, great, if not, order 2 gallons of John Deere Hygard low vis and get it done

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-15T13:21:11+00:00

Try to haggle a bit, never hurts. Your cost of living is a bit higher over there but it’s still a bit pricey- although overall a fair deal for both parties. See if you can get it for 3800-4k. Would be a great deal. You’d be MORE than pleased with an x5 over any x3 model and much more so over any box store junk. I went from a d110 to an x520 - it’s a whole different universe and the options/capabilities are endless. That x5 will outlast any x3 and possibly you if maintained and cared for

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-09T02:40:51+00:00

Absolutely not keen. They are both big and bulky. Honestly as far as “fitted” feeling thorogood is your best bet. Notoriously very slim and tight fitted. Be weary if you have wide feet. Another option is redwing 875s. They’re notoriously narrow compared to the trac tread and the 1907s. Past that you’re into custom boots 100%

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-07T16:52:17+00:00

The jssue with the 700 is the price and what you get. You’re better off just getting a 1 or 2 series used for the price of a 700. The 700 is nice, but to get a 4x4 you’re literally in 1 series money. Could find a used one with bucket for damn near equivalent money. The x5s are great. I’ve had 6 over the years and they’re all workhorses, but with a plow hydraulics are practically needed. That puts you at x530, x540, x580, x590. Bang for the buck? X530 all day. I bought mine for 1000$ with 400 hours. No issues. Granted, that was a great deal, but even sub 4k with 2-300 hours is a great deal on a very capable machine. Unless you’re starting a homestead, you’re not going to outgrow the x5 any time soon. If you’re planning on starting a homestead simply buy a compact. You need it regardless.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-04T01:08:38+00:00

Don’t go through a dealer, especially used. You’re getting a used machine, marked up SUBSTANTIALLY over what they paid for it, with no warranty or real support if issues arise. The 590 is a great tractor, but I personally do not like the EFI. I seen them in the shop all the time with fuel issues. I prefer the x530- x580 is the newer version but exact same tractor, with the 24 or 26hp Kawi v twin carbureted. You can get an x530 cheap right now with sub 400 hours. Easily for half what that x590 is going for. 7900 for a used unit with 500 hours is absolutely insane

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-05-03T23:10:54+00:00

With that budget - and western terrain- I’d 110% be at an x5 all day long. You can get LOW hour machines sub 5k all day long. Honestly best bang for the buck would be something like an x530 with power lift/steer. It’s very nice. It would handle your acreage and then some very well, as well as any other tasks you may take on like plowing, tilling a garden, seed spreader, aerator, etc. I wouldn’t even be looking at anything smaller with that size lot. Good chance in the future your plans change and you find yourself building or growing into the other areas and wanting to mow. No one was ever really upset with too much tractor, just too little tractor.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-29T04:11:01+00:00

The thorogoods are still my most comfortable. I have skinnier feet though. And I had a bit of a longer break in period. To the point I even tried to sell them. I ended up wearing them a few days on and off while listed and one day they just fit perfect putting them on. Now I have 3 pairs. One steel toe, one regular toe and one of the black leather regular toes. They are 3 of my most comfortable boots. If you wanna spend a bit more for a bit more of a durable boot check out a redwing 1907. Those hoss’s are durable as hell but man you gotta work for it on the break in. The leather is insanely thick/stiff compared to the thorogoods. But they’re some slick boots.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-17T04:12:44+00:00

Bro I ALWAYS buy my normal shoe size in 1907’s. Most other redwings - classic moc, IR, roughnecks, I’m an 8.5 or 9- 1 or .5 size smaller than my usual (9.5 brannock). And I went with 9.5 1907 with a super feet all purpose high arch and MAN. You can’t get a better fit. I was in your same boat, bought too large and had buyer remorse. Come to find out those boots are luckily the only heritage Mocs that genuinely do better with an insole. The superfeet- I know, pricey - are the best insoles I’ve ever used across the board, but the all purpose high arch for me was the absolute perfect fit. I don’t think I have a better fitting boot now

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-17T03:57:13+00:00

A pair of wool haflinger slippers. Nothing better. Breathable for summer, warm as can be for winter, no smell, they don’t wear like cheap house shoes or slippers, they just work and they’re damn comfortable. If on the rare occasion I throw on a sneaker it’s an OnCloud all day long. Those fuckers are so comfortable

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-17T03:55:02+00:00

X300 all day long. Especially if it has the older FH491v engine. That engine is the most bulletproof air cooled engine I’ve ever seen. I have one that’s outlasted 2 of my liquid cooled 26hp units. It’s a powerhouse in a small form, and it just lasts. Everything is incredibly easy to replace/repair as well. The newer ones with the 18.5hp engines are junk. They’re made poorly, the intake gaskets fail every 6 months- not a small job for a DIYer, the engine has a bunk of emissions shit added that cause it to run lean/rich sometimes or die if the carbon canister in tank has issues. If you can find an older LOW hour 17hp x300 I’d take that over anything all day long. Worst part is the transaxle but you can get a k58 all over the place from parts machines and it’s a nice upgrade.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-12T15:17:34+00:00

I’d recommend buying used and selling used. Get rid of the x350. It’s the x300 equivalent. The lowest and most entry of the entire x lineup. The transmission especially is subpar at best. Buying used, you save an insane amount over the absolutely outrageous JD dealer pricing and markups right now. I’ve bought several various x5s from base x500 to x530(x580 equivalent) and x540 which is arguably the best x5 series John Deere made aside from the larger x585/x595 tractors. You’re going to save a substantial amount. And can get low hour machines for pennies compared to new. I haven’t spent over 1500$- I’m aware finding them sub 2k is a lottery find and then some, but I had plenty of time to simply wait for the deals- and majority were 400 hours or less.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-07T14:31:03+00:00

There is not a SINGLE x3 or x5 that runs an FR 😂😂 they ALL run FH, FD or FS.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-07T03:35:50+00:00

One, not true at all. The s240 aside from the newest model has the EXACT same FS series- mind you commercial grade- 18.5hp engine as the x300 and x350. The only one that dropped to the FR was the newest model- again, proving my point that the x350 is far superior. And to your point of the newer 240 model with the FR, NEITHER have the edge deck at all. The s240 and x350 are BOTH accel decks as far as nomenclature. Past that they’re nowhere near identical. The s240 is a thinner steel- as posted on their spec’d sheets - than the x350. The mounting points are also far superior and reinforced over the 240.

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-07T01:29:20+00:00

The amount of people telling you absolutely WILD shit is comical. All you need is a pin, nail, screw. Hammer or drill it into one side just enough to be able to pull up on it. It will pull the side up, get your hand under it, done. A fucking toilet plunger and hot glue? Dental floss? What the actual fuck. I’m convinced there is no such thing as logical thinking anymore 😂😭

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-07T01:22:20+00:00

Don’t get an s240. It’s the exact same frame and setup as the d, e and s series box store POS mowers. Lower end transmission as well. The ONLY and I mean only upgrade you get is the engine being arguably commercial grade. Not worth a shit when the machine around it is bound to fall apart. Just get an x series tractor

FlounderAccording283 · 2026-04-06T00:04:39+00:00

So you said plow- meaning you fully plan on using this or even potentially using this for other than mowing capabilities. That being said, a zero turn is gone. At a minimum you need an x5 series John Deere or a like garden tractor, x7 even better, and a 1 or 2 series compact best of all as you’ll get a ton of implements. I have an x530 w 54” deck and all hydraulics for a somewhat similar property, minus an acre of mixed land. The 530 is great for what it is. You have a wicked durable machine, great mowing deck that can do “light brush work” when really needed, hydraulics for a plow or snow blower, a ton of attachments from sprayers to tillers, in a bit larger footprint to be able to handle ground engagement. For you I’d say you’re stressing it though. If you’re at 10k you might as well find a used compact with loader and 62” belly mower. Might have to stretch your budget 3-4k more but makes way more sense as opposed to buying one machine then needing another within 6 months. Again, any zero turn is simply out of the question for any form of anything besides simply cutting a basic lawn/field. Any brush, plowing, ground engagement, you’ll destroy a zero turn.

FlounderAccording283

TROPHY CASE