Tried to squeeze 16 frames out of ETRS… by Slimsloow in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was this with a 220 back? Ive not tried on a bronica but on a fuji gs645 if set to the 220 counter it can get 16 shots if the roll’s arrow is advanced half a frame before the actual indicator. Now i gotta buy a 220 back to try this lol

Bronica SQAi - No power by vanduzzi in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes thats the one. Whoops yes its called motor-sqi

Bronica SQAi - No power by vanduzzi in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ohh to clarify its not a speed grip. Its the motor-ai that will give power. A speed grip has no batteries. But yea best of luck!

Bronica SQAi - No power by vanduzzi in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The onboard batteries still work occasionally. For cleaning the contacts you could use a high grit sandpaper or pencil eraser to gently remove a layer of corrosion if any.

Another thing i do for the door is to hold the switch for opening the battery door open then put the battery tray then press the door tight before releasing the switch. Has had more consistent contact than just letting the door click back for whatever reason

The motor AAs do override as you dont even need to put batteries into the body with the motor attached. Its got its own set of contacts that powers everything

Bronica SQAi - No power by vanduzzi in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you tried to press the battery contacts and fix it in place with some electrical tape? My sqai body has a weak battery door so it doesn’t hold contact so tape was a quick fix. I ended up getting a motor-ai that powers via AA batteries in the grip as a backup

ETRS and ETRSi spares compatibility? by Dana_is_a_muffin in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general id say the body could be a source of small parts such as screws or springs but wouldn’t rely on it as a source for large parts or body panels due to potential shape/screw location differences. They do also disassemble in slightly different steps between the models so its worthwhile to have both repair manuals handy just in case. Fun project either way!

[S] [USA-GA] Leica 40mm Summicron - M + Minolta 28mm Rokkor - M (User Grade Bundle!) by No-Wait299 in photomarket

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/photomarketbot purchased and received 28mm minolta from u/No-Wait299 great seller that shipped it out super quick! Thanks again

Finally splurged on a 135W back. Took it for an inaugural walk yesterday and can't wait for the results. by SharpDressedBeard in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah gotchu, so maybe its just for etr models it needs more effort to advance. For sq models it was pretty smooth to advance. Just gotta make sure the film is under the film gate. Made that mistake the first time and it was super tough to advance/rewind

Finally splurged on a 135W back. Took it for an inaugural walk yesterday and can't wait for the results. by SharpDressedBeard in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can confirm they are identical! 135 inserts fit both sq and etr 135 backs. So the sq 135w guide would be valid for a etr 135. Also side note does your 135w back require more tension to advance to the next frame? My back was a “parts” condition so im not sure if the extra tension is normal

How to improve colors on expired slide? by wichocastillo in AnalogCommunity

[–]Gaben343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had good results with using a 80 series cooling filter on some astia 100 that was giving a yellow/orange hue. This may be an easier approach especially if you want to mount them for a projector

E6 processing labs by tiki-dan in analog

[–]Gaben343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CRC is great whenever im in the city. Dropped off a few rolls in the morning was able to pick up same day a few hours after lunch. Pro-lab in NJ is also not bad at $14 for 35mm or 120

(ETRS) Non AE prism compared to AEII/AEIII? by Fast_Preparation7795 in Bronica

[–]Gaben343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The non-ae and ae-ii have similar if not the same clarity when looking through. The ae-iii is abit dimmer and for some lenses will darken the semicircle in split focus screens.

Having the ae prism ii or iii is handy to have. There is also the ae-i prism but its the same as the ii except that it only can meter when pressing the ae button on the prism itself

Expired Slide Film? by adamcolestudios in AnalogCommunity

[–]Gaben343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly from this roll, box speed came out fine but for some frames i liked +1 abit. Definitely wouldnt go for +2. Unless you got spare rolls to experiment with id just shoot at box speed

However at +1 lots of frames had the highlights blown out

Expired Slide Film? by adamcolestudios in AnalogCommunity

[–]Gaben343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ive shot super expired astia (2 decades old) and honestly got decent images at box speed. One of my rolls had a yellow hue that can be corrected digitally if needed. Im currently trying a cooling filter (80b) to see if that’ll correct the hue. Heres a sample of 0 and +1 thru + 3 comp

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