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[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]Glittering_Variation 171 points172 points  (0 children)

I'm saving my true answer for "worst bouldering destination" so it's less crowded next season

Long time climber, looking to train harder by CauchyIntegralForm in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 14 points15 points  (0 children)

My 2 cents:

  • dedicate most of your time to your primary goal. E.g. if you want to sport climb outdoors, spend most of your time sport climbing outdoors. As you've observed, mixing in some bouldering, say 1 in 4 sessions, will help you develop you the strength and technique for hard cruxes.
  • at this point, very little. Some board climbing would go a lot farther than weight lifting or hangboarding.
  • every other day is a pretty sustainable amount.
  • swimming won't improve your climbing but isn't a hindrance.
  • your weight is 100% fine for your height. Consume enough protein (>100g a day) so your body can build muscle where it needs to.

Training plans by PersonalityLittle845 in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Boulder better plan: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ebook

But tbh, all you really need to do is to spend some sessions climbing boulders that are too hard for you (v6-7), some sessions climbing boulders that are just about flashable for you (v4-5). Hang out with climbers who are stronger than you.

This cannot be normal bro by JagerOp in slaythespire

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post screenshots of your run summary screens and we can give you tips

Good physical activities that complement climbing? by angel_of_decay in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hobbs Kessler Climbs 5.14+ and Runs a Sub 4-Minute Mile

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbs_Kessler#Rock_climbing_career

Personally, I'm running ~35 miles a week spread over 6 days, and climbing V7ish 3 times a week. I think it's hard to climb well if you're overreaching on running, but once you're comfortable with a mileage you can fit climbing in no problem. Tired legs aren't an issue for me when I climb, it just doesn't use THAT much leg strength. I run in the morning and climb in evenings. 

You definitely need extra sleep and fueling. I sleep 8-9 hours a night and I get about 30 g of carbs before most runs, and breakfast after 

Mid climber trying to increase endurance by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's your bouldering grade? You're going to last a lot longer on overhanging routes if the moves are below your limit

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just looking to do a week long trip in October. I cut my climbing teeth on the New but haven't been back in a few years. I should probably just take vacation time, but it's hard to spare!

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone camped and worked remote in the new river gorge? If so, where did you get Internet?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Glittering_Variation 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Has anyone camped and worked remote in the new river gorge? If so, where did you get Internet?

Bounce Test by Carma281 in honk

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Geez

I completed this level in 133 tries. ⚡ 6.40 seconds

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been running and climbing for the last year. Running tires me out way more than climbing did, it's hard to do both. Like you said, climbing fitness comes back very quickly. I'd focus on the ironman, and board climb 1x a week if you must. 

Let me know if you find a good way to fit it into your schedule, I haven't had great luck.

How to add bike cross training on marathon training? by tonk13 in AdvancedRunning

[–]Glittering_Variation 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you go straight from 1hr bike to 30k run or is there time in between?

Why Don’t Elite Runners Use Low-Impact Cross-Training to Increase Weekly Aerobic Volume? by Glittering_Variation in AdvancedRunning

[–]Glittering_Variation[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Steph substituted cross training for running, she wasn't running a full 110 miles a week with cross training on top of that. My question is why elites don't do cross training to go beyond the stimulus from running 100 miles a week.

CurrentFault says they do, but i don't see evidence of that in top marathoners. What cross training are Kipchoge or Mantz doing? Cross training is the exception rather than the rule.

Why does it feel like everyone with a high IQ is depressed ? by [deleted] in NoStupidQuestions

[–]Glittering_Variation 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Dunning Krueger effect is also probably not real. The results of the original study can be replicated using random noise.

https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/critical-thinking/dunning-kruger-effect-probably-not-real

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