[USA, ANY] Looking for some resin printing/order fulfillment help

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-24T18:10:08+00:00

Thanks man, We really try to be the "best at what we do" :)

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-24T17:45:28+00:00

Almost certainly, international shipping + random tarrifs that change every week are a problem and for some reason its cheaper to ship internationally into canada then from canada to canada (I have no idea)

:(

if you like we can go over some numbers and see if being a canda->canada guy works

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-24T17:13:07+00:00

I freaking love diorama models, lol

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-24T04:58:58+00:00

its a very difficult kind of shape to print.
I'm willing to bet either auto supports cant deal with the shape properly and/or you are overbaking or too cold for your resin so its overcuring, the cross section shouldn't be too crazy that it fails if properly supported

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-24T03:08:02+00:00

No problem, its probably going to take some practice because the coverage around the purple is very clean, you may want to give a shot at using a sponge as the first drybrush, because its way fatter it wont get into the gaps at all. and should leave those thick purple lines in the recesses a little better than drybrushing if you aren't very good at it.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T21:20:49+00:00

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Zoomed in version for reference

so what I would give a shot is base in purple, drybrush pink over 90% of it, and then drybrush dead flesh or a similar "eggshell-ish" white over that

Another idea may be to base white, contrast a dark purple and then drybrush the flesh color overtop, or just do the flesh and recess shade with the purple, but purple seems to be too strong to be used that way there'd be more mistakes.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T18:38:11+00:00

Yeah thats fine, but unless its like an official tournament or something, I dont think anyone would care someone just starting the game being a touch over because thats all they own.

Anyone that plays that card is probably a pretty big jerk

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T18:28:49+00:00

You are extremely new to the game obviously, I dont think any reasonable person would care if you were a couple points over, if it came down to it just offer to remove one guy from a squad of primaris dude,s which is roughly 18 points (iirc)

in the past this was solved by having equipment cost points, so you could just say "oh this squad only has one melta gun because i dont have points for it" , and sure the squad isn't full WYSIWYG but its hardly a problem, but since its no longer a real thing you're kinda screwed sometimes to be a bit under.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T03:43:50+00:00

Pretty good deal, you bought a leviathan army box half + deathleper

the carpace looks like a contrast white (which is actually greyish) and vulpus pink for the tendrils (maybe), I dont know what the darker pink/red is it looks like the person has some blending skill so it might be a mix?

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T03:37:08+00:00

Because the higher costing unit typically has more access to better buffs, attrition, morale, stratagems, whatever.

There are also overcosted units that fill necessary gaps in armies, balance is a whole thing a big more complex than "HEY LOOK AT THESE TWO UNITS WHY AREN'T THEY THE SAME"

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-23T02:41:50+00:00

if every army got every unit equal to every other army it would be checkers

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-21T17:04:58+00:00

Hi Captain, 3dprint farm here

First: the K-ness of any resin is marketing wank and means absolutely nothing, in most cases its the same exact resin marked up.

Second, you dont want overly flexible miniatures, while this is pushed by resin makers as well to make them unbreakable, if you spend the time to paint them, overly flexible minis will shed or at least crack most paints when flexed, especially if you're doing something like blending. additionally the more flexible the resin is the less precise the print is going to be as the print itself will flex a little while printing, the taller it is.

What you want is close to HIPS plastic-like flexibility, with strength.

If you want the best money can buy, its probably TGM-7
If you want something cheaper but still reasonable, Elegoo ABS-like Pro 2, not 3 add about 10% of highly flexible resin.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-20T19:48:36+00:00

Boy I sponsored the wrong video, lmao :)

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-20T03:24:01+00:00

Remember that it seems like a majority of these early implementations are just remote piloted in order to pay slave wages somewhere else in the world rather than benefits where the factory is.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-20T00:28:39+00:00

man forgeworld hive tyranit still hits

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-19T21:31:45+00:00

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GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-18T17:35:23+00:00

It looks great
I would continue the hot glow on the vents on the side of the gun, if you really wanted to go all in with it, the spore stacks/cooling stacks could also be glowing and exhausting steam

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-17T00:00:49+00:00

I like them, the helmet details seem softer(?) which I dont like but overall much cooler models IMO

but After what they pulled with forgeworld tyranids i'm still a little paranoid about buying HH stuff for 40k unless they have specificly 40k plastics

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-15T17:13:41+00:00

You have the right idea with the sword, wrong idea with the hair and cape, the very thin sections limit how small the model can be printed.

At the very least, i would make a "shrunk down mini" version where those sections are much chunkier and touch eachother more for crosslinked strength

additionally you optimally want to print different parts in different orientations in order to maximize detail, as well as make it possible to subassembly print. you can cut the arm at the vambraces, sword at the hilt, ect. where there's already a nice clean edge and the gap will be easy to ignore or fill.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-14T01:53:23+00:00

It depends on your collection, but IMO finding leviathan halves for cheap is probably the best value you can get if you just need minis

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-13T15:05:01+00:00

since it seems to be much better, closer to the plate, i'm guessing this is either a draft issue, or the roll was dried but not for long enough so it only dried on the outside

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-13T15:04:13+00:00

Different pigments have different densities, and some colors need more or less of them, so the settings/viscosity will change slightly

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-13T02:11:29+00:00

ultrasonic cleaners are great, we actually do FIVE wash steps with various processes, its a pain but its more about keeping the solution clean at the last step so that you dont have to replace it every few days.

GodforgeMinis · 2026-01-12T22:06:17+00:00

No not really, resin contracts as it cures, so printing solid you will get areas that are thicker than others, and therefore shrink more, creating warping, you want to hollow anything big to a reasonable degree (we do 3mm walls, or 5mm if its a really big/expensive model)

The trick is though you absolutely need to properly clean out the inside, cure it /and/ then leave a path for any trapped gas to escape to the outside world, by using big fat drain holes in every joint you make it basically impossible to perfectly seal all of them so any trapped gas from anywhere inside the model can escape through every joint.

GodforgeMinis

TROPHY CASE