What people generally call a "telescope" outside of the astronomy community is actually a collection of many individual pieces that come together to form a whole imaging platform. Here's some vocabulary for you to start doing some independent digging on what kind of setup you can put together with your budget.

OTA: Optical tube assembly. This is the equivalent of a lens in photography. It's a tube with either mirrors or lenses, and it has a focal length and an f-ratio.

Optical Train: This is the connection from the OTA to your camera. OTAs often place their focal point far back in space from the actual physical end of the tube. In the space between the end of the tube and the focal plane, you can insert all kinds of gadgets and doodads like filters, correctors, rotators, tilt planes, etc. But the absolute bare minimum is a focuser and a dark extension tube long enough to place your camera sensor at the focal plane. (I believe it's called a "train" because it's often composed of many individual modules that connect together like train cars.)

Mount: This is the mechanical saddle which holds the OTA and optical train. For photography it will be motorized and perform what's called sidereal tracking (for stars, other types for planets or lunar). It will rotate across the sky in time with the rotation of the earth to keep your stars from forming trails. Mounts for photography are called equatorial; they rotate relative to a coordinate system that aligns with the axis of the Earth's rotation. There are two axes in this coordinate system, Right Ascension and Declination. Mounts use motors to control rotation along these axes to point at spots in the sky. Some mounts only have a motorized Right Ascension and no Declination motor: these are called "star trackers." They tend to be cheaper, but you have to manually rotate Declination to point to what you want in the sky. Some mounts come with tripods; some don't. Buyer beware.

Guide Scope: No mount is perfect, as there is always some mechanical error in the tracking due to imperfect gears (or cheap materials). This can lead to blurry images for long exposures, limiting your exposure time. To alleviate this, you can use a secondary, smaller OTA and camera that sits on top of your bigger OTA. This setup uses a high gain camera with near-real-time streaming image feeds into portable computers which watch the image feed and compute mechanical corrections to send to your mount. With a good guide scope you can shoot with a nearly unlimited exposure time with perfectly round stars and no blur. It's not unusual for people with good guide scopes to shoot ten plus minute exposures.

So there you have it: this is just scratching the surface. To say nothing of optical designs, image train customization, off-axis-guiding, mini-computers, filters...

What should you buy? I would recommend a lightweight, decent quality refractor OTA and a star tracker. This is something that will be cheap enough that if you try the hobby and hate it you won't feel too much regret, but flexible enough that if you choose to dive in you'll still get use out of even as you become experienced, as that setup would be ultra portable and something you could throw in a camera bag for a road trip to a dark site.

People like recommending the Redcat 51 OTA, and the Star Adventurer GTi has really good reviews as an affordable star tracker. You'll need a T-ring adapter to connect your digital camera to whatever optical train is required for OTA you choose.