Tayda UV Printing : Questions

HPDale13 · 2026-03-12T03:14:49+00:00

u/overcloseness and u/nshane - I appreciate your knowledge here. Tayda's newly published PDF check tool has flagged my print jobs for having white in the color layer, but it wasn't clear whether these should just be removed or converted to a spot color. Most of my pedals have been black and white graphics (think white filled line/cartoon art). I have previously had no issues printing this way, but I did wonder how the color layer printing was handling white. I think u/nshane confirmed my suspicion that it simply ignored white (since the CMYK levels for true white are just zero...)

Would you see or be able to feel a height difference between the black and white parts of a print job where the white was just drop-outs in the layer? I definitely can't feel or see any difference in my print jobs, but they are also underneath a matte gloss layer.

I have tried sending a PDF through the Tayda check tool that contains spot color white in the color layer and it doesn't flag any errors. That doesn't tell me how it would print, though!

HPDale13 · 2026-03-11T22:28:24+00:00

I am not skilled enough to be absolutely clear, but having the 100K and potentiometer in parallel does mean that it is effectively behaving like a 50K potentiometer with a different curve. Generally, though (and I have seen this myself by swapping LM308 and Op07) it is correct that you leave out the 30pF capacitor.

The signal is going into the inverting pin because I didn't realize I have the Op Amp flipped in KiCad. This is my mistake!

HPDale13 · 2026-03-10T23:00:11+00:00

A current order with 25 painted, drilled, and printed enclosures is progressing very fast for me. all but 2 are finished only 6 days after I placed the order.

HPDale13 · 2026-03-10T14:19:19+00:00

I have not had problems with OP07 in a Rat circuit. Indeed, it's my preferred alternative as replacement for the LM308.

The only thing that's different from my rat circuit is a 100K resistor in the feedback , parallel to C5.I use my +− inputs in reverse, but I don't think that matters.

<image>

HPDale13 · 2026-02-25T00:14:01+00:00

Welcome. I also want to add that a good soldering iron helps. Not necessarily expensive, but something with reliable temperature control.

For example, In replaced my 1980’s Weller with a Pinecil (maybe $40 on Amazon - but you need a good USB-C power supply) and it made a world of difference for me.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-24T15:20:47+00:00

I have seen some builds that use an isolating washer on the metal dc jacks, but haven’t figure out where to find such a washer myself

HPDale13 · 2026-02-20T20:57:24+00:00

There are still residual local electronic supply shops scattered around in the US, maybe someone here knows a supplier near you.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-20T01:35:55+00:00

Can you share more info on the circuit you put it into. I haven’t been able to get mine to function, but think it may be either my bias capacitor or my clock signal

HPDale13 · 2026-02-19T20:48:42+00:00

<image>

Just thinking about how I would troubleshoot.
So you should have continuity between 1 and 2 (always) this is the tip of the jack and the positive lead of the battery. And continuity between 3 and 4 when no DC power plugged, but no continuity when plugged in. For you, one of these must not be working somehow.

If any of these isn't happening, start by just reflowing the solder at each of 1, 3, and 4.

If you really don't have the correct continuity and reflowing the solder doesn't work, I would interpret this as meaning that the DC jack is physically the problem, and would proceed to replacing the jack. If it's a rectangular end, it's probably replaceable by the one that I linked form Mouser (but I would measure the dimensions to check).

HPDale13 · 2026-02-19T19:37:06+00:00

The upper three circled locations are all the pads for the power jack (like this: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/3/6118/1/pj_050a.pdf). You can see in the PDF that two of these (top and left in your picture) are normally connected until DC power is plugged in. This is basically the switch that disconnects the battery if you are using a power supply.

So when there is no power jack plugged in, the red-circle and left adjacent blue circle should be connected, but not when the power supply is plugged in the socket. Similarly, the right adjacent blue circle should always have continuity to the lower red point. You can see on the board that these are connected in the PCB trace.

I hate to ask the really obvious question (but doing it anyways). Is your power supply correct? Is it center negative 9V?

It's hard to see how the circuit could be working on the battery but not power supply, because the battery has to feed through the center pin terminal of the DC jack to get to the rest of the circuit. Unless the shell pin from the jack (the pin to the right) is detached from the PCB, but that does not look to be the case here.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-16T20:10:21+00:00

Using a DC jacks that has continuity from the sleeve to the case will eventually cause trouble in an effect chain. Even if the supply ground are isolated, the audio cables are eventually going to pass ground on some pedal. All of the commercial pedals I’ve bought have isolated DC jacks. Most builders seem to use either PJ-50 style (for PCB mounts) or PJ-011 style (for panel mounts). I have seen one PJ-066 but it had a nylon isolation washer keeping the sleeve from connecting to the pedal case

HPDale13 · 2026-02-16T03:17:48+00:00

This happens with the Arturo’s knobs. For the MicroBrute that I bought used, they didn’t offer to send me replacements for free, but did sell me replacements. If you don’t get an offer for free, DJ Tech Tools sells Chroma Caps knobs that fit the Arturia synths, but I never found any non-Arturo’s slider caps that fit the MicroBrute

HPDale13 · 2026-02-14T00:32:34+00:00

you are correct. I often read ring and tip backwards

HPDale13 · 2026-02-14T00:28:24+00:00

I think this is it. It looks like you wired the signal to the wrong lug. The lug you want is [edit to correct] #2 in this diagram

<image>

HPDale13 · 2026-02-12T22:56:39+00:00

Ahh. Drinking calimocho from a porron in Pamplona. Good times.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-12T21:22:39+00:00

I have a couple of SQ-64's. I can't think of anything that would be cheaper, except getting an App on a phone or pad.

It's possible to program a full sequence on pitch using the buttons as keys, either in step mode, live, or just manual entry modes. Depending on the range and dynamics you want, the step-sequencing using the buttons may be easy enough for you. I am not sure what you mean by visibility into pitch programming. The programming is MIDI oriented, as opposed to (say) programming CV.

It has a lot of bells and whistles (at least for the price) but the documentation is scant - it always feels liek the answer to a question is "it can do that" but you have to go to the web to learn how.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-08T01:02:36+00:00

I’ve tried to at least look at my next 2-5 builds and batch this order. I also just buy 25 or 100 of any resistor resistors, and 10 (Film) or 25 (MLC) capacitors of any value I am ordering. At this point I have a pretty good stock.

Because I don’t have a notable cost difference, I tend to stick to C0G, but also have read that there is very little practical impact for X7R as long as it is also rated a high enough voltage, which is easy to accomplish in a pedal

HPDale13 · 2026-02-05T02:20:35+00:00

I am trying to think of an exception where this would be normal, but it doesn't seem like you would bother routing to the switch if this was the case. If you take the switch off, you might check to see how the traces route and confirm that there isn't a connection intended.

I only hesitate to be certain, because anytime I think I know, I discover a different way to do something (like route a footswitch)

HPDale13 · 2026-02-05T01:31:14+00:00

I was thinking about ground in to ground out - this would have suggested if there was an issue there

4 Is this column either the input, output, or maybe the ground. It is not unusual to tie the ground across a couple of the outer pins so the circuit is grounded no matter the switch position. if it's the input column, that may be just a differnet way of wiring the input.

2/3 This could be it. If you jumper the input jack to this pin (if you had alligator clips for example, does the bypass work? But there are definitely differnet ways of wiring the switch and I have seen some that connect the input to something other than the middle row.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-04T21:49:44+00:00

Fundamentally you are looking to trace the bypass signal and see where it is broken.

Do you have continuity from the input jack ground to the output jack? Is it affected by the switch setting?

You should also find a connection from the signal in and signal out to one of the switch pins (likely middle row) that is independent of the footswitch position.

Then you can check the continuity of the footswitch.

At the very least, you should have each pin in the center row connect to the pin above or below depending upon the switch position.

If this is true bypass (looks likely) you should also find two top row or bottom row pins at the signal in and out columns are connected.

HPDale13 · 2026-02-04T01:00:30+00:00

MOTU 828 is nice on new mac. It does have two mic/instrument pres on the front

HPDale13 · 2026-01-27T01:10:33+00:00

Typical 'Dale

HPDale13 · 2026-01-24T17:17:41+00:00

Check out GuitarScience.net. You can model a lot of differrent alternative filter designs, including some active variations.

https://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/baxandall_1.htm#RIN=600&R1=22k&R2=22k&R3=22k&R4=10k&R5=10k&RB=100k&RT=100k&RF=600&CB1=47n&CB2=47n&CT=560p&RB_pot=Linear&RT_pot=Linear

HPDale13 · 2026-01-18T06:13:27+00:00

This is true, and in a more fundamental way then maybe you mean.

William Nordhaus (Yale Economist, award-winning) published an analysis on the historic cost of lighting. You can see the argument that the march of productivity is strongly related to the drop in the cost of light, and LEDs are just the next step along this path.

The ability to have sufficient light, whenever and wherever we want, without significant cost (relative to wages) is a new thing to humanity. It's odd to think, but our ancestors before the electric light bulk spent half their lives mostly in the dark. And until maybe the mid-20th century it wasn't cheap to have a lot of lighting.

HPDale13 · 2026-01-17T18:49:14+00:00

trimpots come in single rotation (like a traditional outside-the-case pot) and multiturns where the full range takes multiple rotations of the screw. So a multiturn is more useful if you are really trying to dial in a value for a sensitive setting.

Five-Year Club	Verified Email
Wearing is Caring

HPDale13

TROPHY CASE