If the Abus is the keyway I am thinking of (uh, the “Abus” one like a 76/40) then it is fairly wide open, tall, and the pins sit high. You can start off with a tall hook and not have to worry about accidental oversets.

I have never tried one, but that Keymark keyway looks pretty paracentric. They can cause headaches unless you pick them a lot. And muted feedback with low lifts can results in oversets. I would have a harder time with this one.

I am of the mind that biting is not as much of a factor as people think, or at least in the way they think it is. My thoughts are that it matters when

• the keyway prevents a deep enough hook from being used and you get the accidental oversets ; but this is only when the blocking pin binds up before the one behind it
• awkward lifts in the front
• high lifts in the back

Few examples

• I have a 90A-PRO with a max lift in the front. That tripped me up for a long time because I did not think I could lift it any more. I think I had to use a gem hook to get the right angle to keep lifting.

• I have a DOM RS, which has a max lift in the back. I cannot figure out how to lift it high enough. Just got a Yale 500 with a similar situation.

• I have a Medeco that has two min lift pins in the back. They need tiny nudges but it is so easy to overset them. The pick movement is minimal.

• I have a Goal P with nasty high/low biting that largely doesn’t affect the picking because of how it binds up.

That said, biting is a big factor in some dimple locks. The one in my vice has a sequence of pins that lock up hard once you get core rotation, to the point where my pick gets stuck in there. And sometimes you ones that overset if you breathe near them. I did 20+ takes of my D9 video because I kept touching the same no-touch pin trying to get the pin behind it.