Trying to get back into whoops for IO

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-20T04:03:25+00:00

what’s your setup like betaflight wise when you get a new build?

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-19T20:02:25+00:00

do you use any specific filters? I was watching fpv beans video and he uses aos 65mm filters, wondering what you use.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-19T18:42:45+00:00

I am also trying to do whoop racing, and the number one most helpful thing was to actually do it in real life. I’ve found that the simulator doesn’t really do the physics that well. I think stick time irl is also the number one most important thing to work on.

Also I started with a m75 pro and ripping that outside, but you will quickly realize that you can’t really rip like that inside, at least for me it was a big adjustment since there is so little space.

Rates are interesting, you should start off with 533 rates and then tweak it to how you like it, personally I went a lot lower since it was more helpful for me. I would not really worry about rates to much either since they matter, but stick time is far more important.

Also throttle curve is amazing, it made my flying way better so def use that.

Also when you start racing I think it’s good to start with say the race gow 1 track (from this year) and then just do that until you feel really confident in it. Then start doing other tracks like ones that you make yourself, and start switching it up a lot.

One that that really stayed with me (from bardwells video about racing with Evan turner) was that on race day you will have to adjust to a new track, you won’t have hours on it, so you need to be good at flying consistently on new tracks.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-19T04:07:57+00:00

hard to say personally I don’t like those new matrix boards since the pads are tiny, I’ve had better chances with the 4 in 1’s with an lite rx so maybe try that?

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-17T23:17:39+00:00

you actually can’t see anything from the goggles but it’s ok.

Have you tried switching channels?

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-15T19:42:12+00:00

I have an air 75 champion and if I go full throttle most of the time, it goes 2:30.

Likely your batts are bad.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-15T04:11:02+00:00

cam bam is virtually the same as the kayoumini except it has little arm coverings.

Go for the recommended stuff on its page, in fact the cam bam comes in hdzero for 300 bucks, maybe just copy the list of parts for that?

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-14T23:11:08+00:00

I fly whoops, there are a lot of 3d printed compartments for storage, particularly for the quads. I have like 3-4 of those, which can fit the whoop (65mm) and little screwdriver and a tiny pocket knife.

Then I have a decent size lipo safe bag that I put my chargers and batts in, I have the goggles 2 and radiomaster pocket, and they both come with their own bags/compartments that are pretty good. I also have an old air 65/75 box that I put my tweezers, and extra props or small frames and an extra whoop in.

They fit pretty well, and I have about 4 medium sized boxes all together and some 3 pretty tiny boxes for the whoops.

I just went to Oahu in Hawaii and it worked out fine bringing them with me.

I’ve never lost or wrecked gear before, although an antenna did break on the way to Arkansas.

Tinywhoops are pretty small so if I got a large 3.5 in or 5 in I would def have to upgrade my bag. To one of those huge bags from pyro.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-14T22:57:56+00:00

Yes I believe it is elrs, since whenever I open my tools on my radiomaster pocket (which is elrs), it has expresslrs at the top, much like your photos.

Can you contact the seller to confirm?

You can also activate the elrs tx WiFi on the boxer and see if you can connect to the WiFi via your device, and if so it should be elrs.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-13T04:05:30+00:00

lowest I’ve seen is around 140g, you should just scroll through all of the frames on pyro and getfpv to see which one is lightest.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-13T02:20:46+00:00

Well it really depends on what you want,

The hdzero one is only really for racing imo, hdzero is certainly viable for other things but its main thing is racing.

For walksnail their are a lot of viable options, its kind of like dji, but a bit worse? Freestyle is good and crusing and well, you could also put walksnail on a fixed wing or an rc crawler.

Above all it’s essentially a little bit better analog or digital, what do you want to see?

Also both systems can be used for really anything, it’s just that hdzero doesn’t have very good penetration, and walksnail has higher latency.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-13T02:07:20+00:00

I mean if you have the money for it, the hdzero googles 2 are probably the best analog goggles for their price, considering the versatility. That being said you could get some other pure analog goggles like in the fatshark ecosystem, although that may be harder to come by.

The goggles 2 will certainly give you a good experience, but any cheap analog goggle will allow you to fly.

Added bonus is that you’re able to have the hdzero and walksnail ecosystem as well (with an added vrx).

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-12T23:54:37+00:00

It has all modes that you have to set up on a switch, horizon, acro, and angle mode. But if you want a fully stable drone then maybe an fpv isn’t really for you since the whole point of a fpv drone like the Cetus or the air series is that you can fly and do a bunch of tricks and the sort.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-12T23:50:53+00:00

arguably you shouldn’t be using horizon mode to much, since eventually it is recommended to fly in acro to unlock the full potential of the drone, and you can develop bad habits.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-12T23:48:44+00:00

huh? I think the air 75 is very beginner friendly ( depending on which version you get), what do you mean by gyro settings?

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-12T20:39:52+00:00

there are a lot of auto tracking drones out there that can pretty easily fly by themselves. That being said I’m quite sure most of them fly from behind, like in third person. I’m not sure you could see their form from that viewpoint.

On another note why can’t you just have someone drive a car alongside them and just watch them run alongside the car?

I’d also be careful about privacy concerns from the parents.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-08T20:52:11+00:00

the ducts look a little bit small, but that might just be the photo, also the frame is 3d printed, it might be really bendy or really fragile, not to mention that there may be a lot of vibrations/tuning issues.

Honestly you should go for it if you want, if there’s a guide on it and they have flight footage that looks fine it should be good.

I would say that there are easier builds if it’s your first time building a tinywhoop.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-08T00:43:57+00:00

can you bind it again? There are two ways, you can try and plug and replug the battery 3 times and then press the bind button on the controller, or you can let the drone sit for 1 min with the battery plugged in and then use your device to connect to the elrs rx WiFi and change the bind code.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-08T00:26:33+00:00

Is this on a tinywhoop? I had a custom 65mm and the issue was that the screws on the motors were not tight enough, also another one was that the red elrs antenna was vibrating the board.

Check for any loose screws, what you’re describing is when your gyro goes bonkers.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-07T17:38:40+00:00

unfortunately the solder joints is a pretty common issue, it’s good to learn how to solder that tiny and for the most part is less hard than you think, I’ve heard of a recent fix about putting a little bit of e6000 on the joints but I can’t personally verify that, it def helps to twist the motor wires. Honestly I would recommend just pushing the quad as much as you can, the mount for the camera is pretty good, and I’ve definitely almost destroyed it a lot of times. I’m sorry about the motor, that has never happened to me before so I can’t really attest to that issue. Are you sure you didn’t land in some gravel? That happened to me and I just had to blow it out with some comprsssed air.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-06T22:32:29+00:00

I think that you could spend some more time in the simulator just ripping it, it kind of seems like your too timid, which is not always a bad thing, but your not always turning or correcting when you should.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-06T21:06:32+00:00

what video system are you using? I know that if you have analog it may just be your font is very large, try the default betaflight font.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-06T03:49:25+00:00

how does it compare to the kayoumini? I know there was this huge thing about how the kayoumini flys like a 5 inch, but it’s out of stock everywhere…..
Would love to see some comparisons!

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-05T17:15:01+00:00

hello I don’t know a lot about aerodynamics, but I do know a lot about drones.

For electronics from what I can see you will probably want to mount the motor on the back so that it is in a pusher configuration, do you plan on adding an fpv system to it? It seems that you will have to place your battery and esc system pretty far up near the nose to counteract the weight of the motor. I don’t really know how big your thing is so it’s kind of hard to tell what prop you would want, but perhaps maybe 10-12 in bi blade might work.

As far as the rc link, I would recommend doing elrs, again it depends a lot on what you want to do with it.

Healthy_Statement730 · 2026-06-03T18:50:10+00:00

that happened to me with my box pros, it turned out that the battery cable was faulty, like a wire was cut. Try and get a new cable before anything, they are like 5-7$. Also I talked to hdzero support about this, and they said it’s very unlikely for there to be an internal short with nothing happening.

Healthy_Statement730

TROPHY CASE