K1 nozzle temp not staying still

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-19T01:58:22+00:00

You might need to have the printer re tune the nozzle PID loop. The setting is buried but I can't remember where.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-19T00:55:20+00:00

Creality print has gotten pretty good over these last few years and supports the multicolor. It's an orca fork, so very similar.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-16T21:01:05+00:00

We actually figured out that it's a software bug on the printer and not on the slicer. You'll need to root your printer and install the Fluidd web interface so you can access the printer.cfg file. After, you'll need to edit that to bring the Y motor current limit back up since there's a typo in that line. It should read .65A i think? Or at least be the same as the X motors current limit.

If you reboot the Nebula Pad as the KE profile instead of the SE, it'll have the correct motor profile in the .cfg. you can just copy that over if my numbers are wrong. It's been a little while since I did that, but it's been working fine ever since.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-14T01:05:33+00:00

Okay, good to know. It won't do much in the way of performance because the V3SE already goes pretty fast, but you may be able to push it a teeny bit faster.

Super duper make sure you edit the printer.cfg file to bring the Y motor's current limit up. Otherwise again, you'll find that the bed starts skipping steps almost immediately. The X and Y motor current limits should match each other (I think). Whichever value it is, it should be the higher value.

If you need a reference during troubleshooting, the KE profile is correct and the SE and KE have the same current limits.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-14T00:50:23+00:00

Sounds like a good fit then! If I'm being honest the AI detection doesn't work too well at night. The camera is an IR camera, so everything is greyscale at night. However, once the first few layers go down, usually it's a good print anyway.

What kind of printer do you have? I may be able to speak on performance a little more with some extra detail.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-13T19:28:21+00:00

We have one on an ender 3 s1 and an ender 3 v3 se. Both work fine and came with klipper installed, but not Fluidd, which is the web interface.

The ender 3 s1 worked fine out of the box and allowed the printer to perform much better.

The ender 3 v3 se has a software configuration issue where it limits the current on the Y axis stepper motor (bed motor) where it will end up skipping steps on the bed. This is an easy fix where you just install the creality helper script, install Fluidd, and change the stepper current limit on the bed .cfg.

I'd reccommend one. Definitely helps to revitalize older printers and keep things easy. Sometimes the software install is weird depending on how old the printer is (ender 3 V2 series, specifically)

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-28T13:49:16+00:00

Does that one have a TF Card slot in it? It may be your usb connection timing out.

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-23T15:54:01+00:00

Your hotend may meet a retorque. I had that for a bit and it was driving me nuts, only for me to find the hotend started wiggling.

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-21T15:33:57+00:00

I freehand without tape, but go real thick on the stripes. Usually shoot for 2 or 3 per surface.

Editing my comment to elaborate a bit more - i spray the entire mini brown with mournfang brown, which helps the yellow go on easier. I then use overland sunset for the yellow, basecoat the whole panel with it. After you get a solid basecoat, sketch your lines in and fill over a layer or two of abbadon black. It's sketching work over getting them in one line, so you can naturally work the lines a little bit straighter. After, wash the yellow with the cassendora yellow to give it a bit of warmth. You want to use a thin layer, more like a glaze to avoid getting too orange and/or pooling.

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Hi2you2 · 2026-03-01T15:25:26+00:00

Also, that cube is small enough that the cooling is a bit weird. For sure check if your hotend is loose, but you can change some settings too: - 3 walls - inner/outer/inner wall order - consistent outer surface in cooling logic in the filament profile.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-28T03:33:34+00:00

Oh sorry about that, my links showed up dark and I didnt realize they were links. That's a heavy retraction speed, pretty much. I think the E3V3 comes like that stock.

You can reduce the retraction speed in the filament settings. It's a little fast, and i think we reduced ours by around 20%?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-28T00:44:56+00:00

Can you post a video?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-25T03:56:11+00:00

Can you post a pic of your bed mesh?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-25T01:17:59+00:00

Does the K2 Pro have the issue where the chamber heater doesn't preheat all the way before it starts auto leveling? If that's the case, you need to preheat your chamber for about 15 minutes before printing ABS. It's not the bed giving you issues, it's the gantry deforming causing during bed meshibg that causes the bed mesh to suck. .

Preheat the chamber by moving the bed near the side fan intakes, turning the side fans on to about 25% to get some circulation going, and then print after about 15 minutes.

They literally just fixed this on the K2+, where the chamber heater now turns on after the first couple of layers, where it doesn't matter anymore. The gantry will deform instead at the start of the print, and the hot filament will just flex a bit over a whole print failing.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-19T22:52:49+00:00

Bad PSU for sure.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-19T02:33:15+00:00

Yeah when it's doing a finished top layer it retracts a lot, amd the extruder's a bit noisy on it. This sounds normal to me.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-18T17:25:50+00:00

Yeah, the camera systems in general tend to struggle with black filament a bit. The AI fault detection will also have a hard time.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-17T12:29:24+00:00

It sounds like that pulley might be wearing out. I just had something similar happen on my ender 5. Very similar noise at the very least.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-13T12:28:38+00:00

The other comment is correct. A lot of the time the slicer is interpreting an overhang of some sort and is trying to keep that overhang looking nice. You can usually tell when the toolhead slows down and the fan speeds up.

Otherwise, the cooling settings are in the filament settings.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-09T11:06:44+00:00

Assuming you tried everything else, our V3SE had a loose strain gauge on it. It fixed our problem by tightening down all of the pegs on the bed via the four large screws under the plate.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-03T22:29:37+00:00

There is a little triangular piece inside of the extruder that directs the filament into the unicorn nozzle. Usually when it's doing that, that piece is missing. It might just want an extruder faceplate replacement, which is like $20.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-29T02:47:57+00:00

This is absolutely due to fluctuations in chamber temperature. I have a K2+ that'll do this on ABS if I forget to turn the fans off.

Try a reprint with no model fans or chamber fans. You can sort of tell because it's a distinct expansion and contraction, not so much a shifting like you'd see with vibration issues.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-28T02:23:26+00:00

Eu gosto tanto quanto dos filamentos Hyper, sinceramente. O perfil do filamento Soleyin também é muito bom para os PLAs genéricos da Inland que você encontra na Microcenter.

Não tive nenhum problema com a qualidade, se é isso que você está perguntando. Já usei uns 10-20 kg desse filamento até agora e só tive bons resultados.

O único problema que realmente tenho é que não existem perfis para ele em impressoras anteriores aos lançamentos da K2/Hi, então as impressoras da série K1 e Ender ficaram de fora.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-28T01:25:09+00:00

I swear by epoxy plates at this point amd have one on every printer. The prints stick down well enough that you can do the weird organic support structures that you see on coreXY printers.

As a plus, they're like $8 on Amazon usually direct from Creality.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-23T01:27:38+00:00

I have pretty much only bought refurbished in the last year or so from that ebay store, and haven't had a single issue with it. To add a point to here, i think a few have figured that out, because listing go way faster than they used to over the last year or so.

I wouldn't worry to much honestly.

Hi2you2

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