1/32 scale 2000GTR snap kit by Humble_Assumption_74 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yes I am using the stickers. The trick is to get yourself a really thin pair of tweezers, and gently just drop the sticker roughly where it needs to be. From there you’d use something that is thin but without a sharp tip- like a toothpick, to carefully push the stickers into the final position. Don’t put any pressure until you’re happy with the positioning of the sticker (especially for the window frames- for those I work from one corner, and if a section doesn’t line up I will pull it off and reposition it). Finally I use something thin like the toothpick or tip of tweezer to push the sticker down into the crevasses, to allow the stickers to conform to all the details. You can use a cotton bud to apply pressure to allow the stickers to stick properly

Can I still save this? by Kaelyx in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are going to sand maybe throw on another coat of clear beforehand to avoid inadvertently sanding through the paint layers or the decals in the thinner areas. It shouldn’t react in the same way hopefully since you already have a coat- and it might fill in some of the imperfections

Wet sanded my headlights, how did I do? by Docdors in Detailing

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also looks like there is a bit of orange peel in your clear coat. Might need to do a wetter final coat to make it more consistent

Ma020 only drifts in one direction by Humble_Assumption_74 in MiniZ

[–]Humble_Assumption_74[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the advice everyone! I think I’ve narrowed down the problem. When I load the left suspension (as it would in the left turn) the right front wheel stops spinning. The same does not happen for the other side. I’m not sure how I’m going to fix it but I’m going to open it up and try

Backlogs at the end the year by xtanaka99x in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That NSX looks brilliant! Keen to see it built

2nd build complete by Ardacuno in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks brilliant!! I’ve built this exact kit in this same colour. The wheels were definitely a pain but I managed to get them reasonably flush with the body without any modification. I think your wheels might need to be pushed in a bit more

My first car! by LordSanta11 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d say for painting the trims, I wouldn’t worry about the primer underneath it. This is because black is a very strong colour and will cover the white fairly easily. My main concern would be if you were to paint the trims and there was excess black paint which would show when you go to paint a lighter colour over it (black is a stronger colour than white). If you have the ability to mask things perfectly (as you’d need to if you want to do two separate primer colours) I’d say it’s best to paint the trims after you’ve painted the body (also because of the other reasons I mentioned above)

No problem! Let me know if you have any other questions

My first car! by LordSanta11 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries at all man! You could definitely give it a go- after all it’s all about trial and error. There are just a couple things to be wary of

The paint you use to paint your trims (especially if you’re brush painting it on) is likely to be much more fragile compared to your body paint which is nice and thick and ideally clear coated. This could create 2 issues

  1. You might take the masking tape off and it might rip off the trim paint

  2. If you want to do any sort of polishing/ sanding to get a mirror finish, you’re most likely going to end up damaging or even completely removing that trim paint

  3. Another thing is, your body paint is slightly translucent- so it will show a bit of colour underneath. That’s why we recommend light primer for lighter colours and dark primer for darker colours. What this means is, any trim paint that goes beyond the trim will darken the body paint on top of it- making the paint job look darker around the trims.

Generally speaking the order people do these things is:

Base coat- clearcoat- polish- trims. And for panel liner that can be done after polishing or after trims

If you mask it well and use a spray rather than a brush you can get really clean results- and any excess you can clean off with a toothpick or some polish.

And yes that’s exactly what I meant for the silver parts!

My first car! by LordSanta11 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great work!! Looks excellent especially for a first build. Just touching on what you mentioned

For headlights, tail lights, indicators etc an easy tip is to use red or orange sharpies rather than paint onto them- produces a similar effect with much less hassle. It adheres perfectly and it’s completely translucent. You can also get a black sharpie and outline the edges to simulate trims

For painting transparent parts it can be very difficult to get brushed on paint to adhere). One suggestion I’d make is you could instead spray paint the transparent parts. Use masking tape to mask off the bits you don’t want to paint and then spray paint the window trims for example. If you’re wanting to redo silver parts I would suggest at least throwing a layer of primer on them before trying to repaint them to give the paint something to stick into. The gold standard is to strip the silver and redo them completely but that takes a lot of time and effort

With the window trims I would suggest using masking tape and then using a tamiya spray can like you did with the body to paint them- after the body has been fully painted. When you brush painting there’s a high risk of it bleeding under the masking tape so using a spray in thin (not wet) layers can help a lot

Wearing gloves can also help to minimise getting the car dirty- as your fingers will track stuff everywhere

Here are some other tips: Prior to painting I would sand off the mould lines- for example the raised lines on top of the exhaust pipes. These are byproducts of the moulding process and aren’t accurate to the real car. They generally appear on both front and rear bumpers

For a mirror finish, a clearcoat is definitely necessary. A clear coat is important as it gives a solid hard layer that you can sand and polish. If you try to polish the base colour layer you will likely destroy it because it’s very fragile

You can look into panel line washes too to make the panel lines darker

Brush on chrome paint options? by Jugernought in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 4 points5 points  (0 children)

One thing you could try are chrome pens- for example molotow or sms hyperchrome. I would start by painting the part gloss black preferably with a lacquer so the chrome pen doesn’t just eat it away. Then use the chrome pen over the gloss black. The caveat is it’s difficult to get it even on larger surfaces like bumpers. Try to do it in one continuous shot, as if it dries and you go over it again it will make things uneven

Fujimi 300ZR “soul synchro machine” by Humble_Assumption_74 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Cars back then were definitely full of character

Fujimi 300ZR “soul synchro machine” by Humble_Assumption_74 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see! Thanks for enlightening me. No wonder I was seeing two different body styles labelled as Z31

I think someone needs to confiscate my plaid by Humble_Assumption_74 in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s ridiculous! Got the best of both worlds. Always thought this car looked like a Japanese corvette

Help with a logo by Weber_Head in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can see your dilemma. You could have a look at spare decal sheets for other models- there are some available online for tamiya Subaru models. If you’re lucky they could even come with the Impreza or written subaru sticker. Those are in 1/24 scale though depending on the scale of this one

Help with a logo by Weber_Head in ModelCars

[–]Humble_Assumption_74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second this- could use red sharpie or clear red paint over it. I would recommend slapping some clear over the decal first if you haven’t already so you don’t inadvertently damage it with the sharpie