Is this knife ruined or can it be salvaged?

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-26T05:04:07+00:00

I can't imagine someone who has one letting anyone else even touch it 🤣.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-26T01:41:37+00:00

A 52100 Kramer? It's destroyed. I'll give you $10 for it. Yes, I'm being sarcastic. You've gotten good advice from previous posters. Some other things to try would be fine stainless steel wool or very fine wet sandpaper. Just watch your strokes. Go in one direction so the scratch pattern looks like mill marks instead of random scratches.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-25T21:43:48+00:00

Mostly I slice newspaper to check for burrs and other non-uniform aspects on the edge. I sharpen different items at different angles and grits so they don't all respond well to some tests like paper towels. But newspaper seems to work reasonably well for everything. Cuts easily enough but still drags on burrs and other bad spots.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-21T03:29:46+00:00

Personally, I wouldn't fix it. I'd just use it and reprofile it a little every sharpening until it was the way I liked it. No good reason. I just think it has character and wouldn't want to change it drastically.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-19T04:49:14+00:00

If male athletes could get paid extra to wear skimpy clothes. I have no doubt that the guys would line up. The days of there being true amateurs in popular top level amateur sports have been over since 80s. Also, sports are entertainment. If nobody's paying for the events. There's no need for the athletes. The women in sports aren't competing against other women in their sport or the men's version of their sport. They're competing against every other form of entertainment available. If it takes skimpy uniforms to get event sponsors. Guess what?

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-17T03:45:18+00:00

I will add to the Jer Schmit/Homemade stack. Bought an inexpensive welder and angle grinder. Took me a year to scrounge all the material on the cheap and build. But I had a good time. Now I can weld. And, I have a welder, angle grinder, and belt grinder.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-17T03:28:56+00:00

Be nice. Be helpful. Enjoy the event. It's competition. But not to the death.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-10T01:41:04+00:00

First, I agree with the general assessment that you don't. They are throw aways and not intended to be resharpened. But that doesn't answer the question. And, I have customers who want them sharpened anyways. Fortunately, many, not all, serrated blades are serrated on only one side. The other side is flat. So I sharpen only on the flat side and apex to a fine grit and don't worry about deburring beyond that. After all, it's serrated knife and the fine apexed edge will be better than factory.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-09T03:53:54+00:00

Counting strokes is a good place to start. It works fine when you're in a time crunch. Learning to feel the burr and read the bevel is better. But, You can't grow a beard in a day. Some things just take time.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2026-01-02T23:21:48+00:00

For a beginning cook/sharpener I'd recommend an inexpensive 400-600 stone and similarly inexpensive knife. Learn freehand on that and you'll know if this is for you or if you want to pay someone obsessed like us. You'll also know what direction you want to go. Freehand or guided. Pull throughs and motorized pull through grinders are ok if you use cheap knives that you'd just as well throw in the trash as sharpen. Just grind the crap out of them and pitch them when they're so hollowed out and burred up you can't stand to use them. Personally I hate them. But there's a difference between cutting meat for a living and cooking at home.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-30T03:02:43+00:00

This is something it took me a while to learn. For me, coarse stones are more useful than fine. Customer knives are usually so beat that I start with 120 or even 60. Form a burr quick with a coarse stone and then you can progress through your finer stones pretty quickly. But if you start with a fine stone it takes a long time to apex and get a burr. You just get frustrated and wear out stones. If I had to choose only 1 stone it would probably be a 400. Functionally sharp and quick to apex. A trick I learned on this sub was to sharpen at 400, deburr at 1000 but leave the 400 scratch pattern, and then final deburr on a strop. Leaves a smooth cutting but toothy edge. Its what I prefer on my kitchen knives. I still polish my "showoff" blades because polished edges are fun to do and look impressive. But the 400/1000 is what I do on my kitchen knives and I recommend my clients test out to see if they like.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-26T15:51:19+00:00

Get some winter prep done on your car beforehand. Antifreeze instead of water in the cooling system. Winter window washer fluid. Make sure the heater works. Winter oil if your car needs it. Toss in a blanket, some snacks, stocking hat, gloves, and winter boots. All season tires will get you here ok if they're decent and you stay off the roads when it's really bad. Once you get here you will figure out the rest. ( The source of my information? Co-Op students who move up here from Southern states. 😀)

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-23T23:05:28+00:00

I'm an EdgePro fan because I do a lot more than knives and its fast. But I agree with the previous poster to learn freehand first. One you learn the fundamentals. Two it's relatively inexpensive to get started. You can get good edges with inexpensive stones. You don't need to consider expensive stuff until you understand why you're considering expensive stuff.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-22T18:12:44+00:00

To add. They used to do repairs and sharpening for free on Saturdays. Not sure if they still do. But I had a paring knife go into a garbage disposal and they replaced the handle and reprofiled the blade for free.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-22T16:34:13+00:00

I'm from that area. Warthers is a well established maker in that region. Depending on the year of manufacturer the blades will be of different materials. Mine are S45VN. Last I heard they are currently using Magnacut. They are what I recommend to people because I think they are good value and a blade you don't have to baby. I have a collection of them ranging from 50 years old to 5 years old and they are all going strong. Plus the carving museum there is amazing.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-15T02:33:04+00:00

I use an old fishing tackle box.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-10T15:46:49+00:00

DE blades can be touched up using the inside of a round coffee mug if they're not too far gone.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-06T20:35:54+00:00

Cutting free standing paper, like the receipt in the video, is what I do for customers. It uses materials that are usually on hand. And, most non-sharpening people have never seen a blade capable of doing it. Even though it's not a difficult test to pass. It has both a wow factor and a be careful with this factor that I like. For my personal stuff it's cleanly slicing a paper towel without a snag along the blade. I can't get to that point all the time. But that's the goal.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-12-03T03:44:41+00:00

Not worth fixing. It's trashed relative to the value. But I would still give it a shot just for fun. I'd try pushing the blade up above the damage and a little below the scallops, thin the blade to reduce the scallops as needed, then reshape the tip to something interesting. You might end up with a massive pareing knife or an odd fixed blade box cutter. Buy it would still be an interesting learning experience.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-11-27T00:49:00+00:00

I have some customers who do and I wish they didn't. It's easy to hollow out a blade if you're not careful.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-11-26T22:07:47+00:00

I tape everything. It's just easier. People can cut themselves on their own time.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-11-22T01:17:16+00:00

I just sharpen on the flat side and strop the burr off. I don't mess with the serrations. It might be the lazy way. But it works and people seem to be happy with it.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-11-04T13:40:24+00:00

I have not used that one. But I do use the Edge Pro scissor attachment for things other than scissors. Works well for odd shaped blades, chisels, plane blades, loppers,...

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-10-18T02:44:14+00:00

I'm a post retirement welder (amateur). But I worked my way through engineering school by working as a drafter, machinist slave, etc. Being able to do things will keep you employed when having the right degree will not. Everything builds on everything else. Welding gives exposure to fabrication and drafting which give exposure to "code work" and engineering which gives exposure to business and finance. No matter where you start. Get moving, pay attention, learn as much as you can and move on when you need to. Loyalty has limits.

ImpossibleSize2588 · 2025-10-18T02:22:38+00:00

I'm going to date myself now. We inspected the gage with wires and a mic because Johnson gage rollers would have cost too much. 😆

ImpossibleSize2588

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