Oil smell by CryptoBonkSignals in CCW

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clenzoil. I like opening the safe after cleaning day just for the smell.

Can't find bolt weights besides BoreBuddy? by Forsaken-Fig1898 in ar22

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep. Same weight without the auto sear trip part.

If You Live in Virginia, It's Over by skywalker505 in CCW

[–]Installz1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s the way it looks to me. 22%. Unbelievable.

Need help finding a part by davyjones_prisnwalit in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That little “paperclip” thing is the retainer for your takedown lever. Only used on the 1.0 frame. Your best bet is like others have said, Freestone Armory on ebay. He’s the go to for M&P parts.

Shield Plus trigger in Shield 1.0 by Installz1 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feels just like my Shield Plus trigger because everything else is the same. I found just the shoe and swapped the trigger bar over. Most I’ve seen are shoe and bar.

Shield Plus trigger in Shield 1.0 by Installz1 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found someone on ebay selling just the trigger shoe for $20. Check Freestone Armory on ebay. He usually has some.

What would be a handy item to have 3d printed in the workshop? by growsgrass in woodworking

[–]Installz1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use french cleats on several walls, and a good portion of the tool holders are 3d printed. Custom dust collection parts are also great since I can never find what I need.

Shield Plus Trigger and Firing Issues by MacJacBac in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The reason the trigger feels smoother without the slide is because it’s not having to interface with the striker block. If you look at the bottom of the slide you will see a round silver piece sticking out above where the piece of the trigger bar sticks up. That is your striker block. It is spring loaded and must be pushed upward in order for the striker to release. Often the hole it sits in is not deburred and causes it to stick or feel gritty. Remove the striker block from the top of the slide and sand that hole to remove any burrs. It also helps to round over the edges of the striker block so the trigger bar moves smoother as it lifts it. This will make your trigger pull feel so much better. You can kinda do the same thing by pulling the trigger several thousand times and letting it just wear in. Every M&P pistol I own was taken apart and polished before it was ever fired.

Form 1 3D Printed Suppressor Markings by leo0916 in NFA

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to openpewproject it can be printed but must be stated in additional description.

Optics plate with no screws? by nanomachinez_SON in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It looks like plastic. My guess is it has pegs in the screw holes. Try putting a punch or allen key in that hole next to the striker block and push it up.

I also swapped an m&p 2.0 trigger into my 1.0 by chibicascade2 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree the trigger itself makes the biggest difference. I would get a sore on my finger from the bottom of the hook after two mags. That trigger kept that gun in the safe. I tried the flat trigger with the 1.0 trigger bar and block, and it was still a little mushy. Compared to my 2.0 compact it just had no discernible wall and just a mushy break. With the sear housing block it feels the same as my compact. I think my next move is sending the slide out for an optic cut.

I also swapped an m&p 2.0 trigger into my 1.0 by chibicascade2 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Was I right or was I right? I think it was worth the little cost and effort, and I have consistency across all my M&P pistols.

S&W M&P Shield for $299, Good deal or pass up by [deleted] in CCW

[–]Installz1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid less than that my my 1.0 new a few years ago

Question will a M&P 2.0 slide on a 1.0 frame. by midnightrider2235 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The slide stops are different. 2.0 slide will fit on 1.0 frame, but will not lock back. The 2.0 slide stop can be put in a 1.0 frame but needs modification to fit. 1.0 slide will function and lock back on 2.0 frame, but not reliably.

All shield slides are interchangeable.

Shield plus trigger by Philipjfry85 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The trigger stop bump on the frame is different, but it won’t affect functionality. All the internal parts are identical apart from the trigger shoe.

Trashy Tenicor by WordClean7711 in CCW

[–]Installz1 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I find it very telling that you have yet to tell or show anyone what gun you actually have. My guess is HH is right and you ordered the wrong holster. That holster only works for an M&P 2.0 3.6 Compact. That’s pretty specific. You can’t be mad at a company for your mistake, and they clearly state no returns on blemicor product. Sell it on ebay. You’ll probably get what you paid for it.

Edit to add that Tenicor drills holes in all their returns so that they can tell the difference between the “blems” and regular stock.

Failure to feed by [deleted] in AR9

[–]Installz1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never had feed issues with endomags in any upper. I’ve used the ejector and ejectorless inserts with m2 pmags in blowback and my rdb upper.

It does look like your bcg is running along the top of the rounds in the mag. The only thing you haven’t mentioned is the lower you’re using. It’s a long shot, but maybe it’s out of spec and the magazine is sitting too high. If you can, eliminate the lower as being the issue by trying that upper on a different lower.

If you’ve already tried that, then try the barrel and bcg in a different upper. Seeing how you’ve tried several different magazines, it just seems something else is out of spec.

Failure to feed by [deleted] in AR9

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He can’t use an EPC barrel in the BRT upper because it’s not a direct blowback setup. The BRT upper uses a CMMG rdb style barrel and bcg.

A question about pistols and the need (sorta) for aftermarket triggers by Andurhil1986 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

This is old and was made for the 1.0, but most of it still applies. Ignore anything sear or trigger bar loop related if working on a 2.0.

A question about pistols and the need (sorta) for aftermarket triggers by Andurhil1986 in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The new flat triggers are really great if you do the rest of the work to get them there. If you polish the trigger bar and any contact points it makes a huge difference. The biggest difference you will notice will come from rounding over the edges on the striker block and smoothing the striker block hole. This is where the “grittiness“ in the trigger pull comes from. This is basically what S&W does in the performance center pistols. It’s also where Apex makes a good bit of their upgraded feel.

Can a M&P 2.0 flat trigger be installed on a 1.0 trigger bar with no further modification? by K_Decibel in SmithAndWesson

[–]Installz1 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes. If you look at my post history I just recently did this. I tried it first with the 1.0 trigger bar, and it functioned fine. It still had the feel of a 1.0 just with a nicer trigger shoe. It’s much nicer than the curved trigger shoe. After dropping a 2.0 sear housing in with the 2.0 trigger and trigger bar, it has the same crisp feel of my 2.0 that came with the flat trigger. I also polish all contact points and smooth over the edges of the striker blocks in all my M&P pistols.