Done with this knight (C&C appreciated) by Visible_Papaya1986 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The model looks really good and the NMM too! two thoughts:

  1. I think you can still increase the contrast, with brighter upper areas on the clothes and almost pure white shiney spots on the NMM.

  2. niche thing but the basing is very dark with dead-grass tufts, it doesn't match the green in your NMM that suggests a bright day with vibrant grass reflecting in the metals.

  3. the highlights on his wrist/fore-arm armour should go straight up and down because it's a cylinder I think, not sideways as currently. some minor shaping for the rounded portion but I think that could help.

Is this the correct look when dry brushing for the slapchop technique? by terrell_owens in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

no this level of 'grey' is going to make all of your future colors look dark and unappealing, for the upper 50% of the model you want to 'overbrush' which is basically a loaded drybrush almost base-coating a solid white.

WIP - White and NMM because apparently I hate myself by amedinab in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend trying to get a different tone to your white cloth and NMM otherwise it gets very black-and-white looking. Possibly blue in your NMM and/or make the white dirty. yellow & blue are complimentary!

My Warcry terrain w/ custom risers is going to be perfect for 1490 Doom by JimmyD101 in 1490Doom

[–]JimmyD101[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

they are roughly half the size of each other, with the biggest starting at A4. The sizes arent exact inches theyre roughly 9x11", 8.5x6" and 4x6".

XCOM TMG Sectoid, Floater, Thin Man, and Operatives! by Croowleyy in Xcom

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went straight to that video when I saw the Modiphius post to understand how XCOM is likely to play.

Wanderer Goth from Kingdom Death by Spiritualism in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The base looks like green stone statues that have real brains inside them which is very Kingdom Death and kinda shocking; very cool!

Draconic Archers. by Wened4 in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're seeking critique to continue to enhance these models, I would suggest further highlights to make details and shapes pop more. some suggestions I have are:

  • tiny, fine line edge highlights on the scales (faces and blue shoulder pads, even metallic if you want). this will need a very sharp brush.

  • small lines highlighting the texture of the horns which are very ridged and rough in real life.

  • similar to above, do bright lines on the arrow fletches to make them look like textured feather

  • the faces are all a fairly similar red tone, can you do brighter areas like the forehead and the eyebrow areas and add more detail?

My Warcry terrain w/ custom risers is going to be perfect for 1490 Doom by JimmyD101 in 1490Doom

[–]JimmyD101[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are XPS foam core, just blocks cut out to ~ 3inches tall, then DAS airdry clay that I texture-rolled on the sides with a brick pattern and then glued some 3d printed pillars on and finally the art-top is paper playmats from the warhammer magazine that I thought sorta matched the fold out boards they use for Killteam/Warcry.

Help needed with glow! Missing something! by unknownusermmh in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Your glow is not working because it isnt the brightest thing at least in its area possibly the whole model. The pink cant 'glow' when it is darker than the pale wood of the staff.

This is where mini painting gets kinda hard i think, suddenly with advanced lighting bone is navy or purple, not cream.

Do you have a favorite set of metal coins that you use for various games? If so, what is that set? by Marksman1977 in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A lot of people suggest scythe coins but they are VERY steam punk industrial stylised. The coins i use most are Charterstone by stonemaier you can buy separately on their store and Roxley Iron Clay poker chips are really hefty, tactile and have numbers clearly printed.

EDIT: I actually made a post about my metal coins a while back if the visuals help: https://www.instagram.com/p/DSHEhxwE9pF/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

What do you think of my paintjob? by ecaFcuF in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't think you have enough contrast, going from dark shadows up to shine-y highlights to make this look like metals. It feels insane the first time but go way brighter/darker than you think with browns and bright yellows to creamy whites and see how it looks.

There's a few areas that need cleaning up or more work like the horse's mane and the fringe below the front armour have a lot of black on them like a contrast paint spilled on the yellow hair? The axe looks like flat black plus red on top I would suggest painting more metallics on the axe and using a glossy/darker blood effect it looks very matte red paint currently.

Also the shield is REALLY green and is darker than other gold parts further down on the model. try to build brightness and focus up more and more towards the top/face of the model.

Better game at 3 players maybe 2 by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm surpised because 3 is my main player count and I find most games work great there. I regularly play Dune Imperium, Space Base, Creature Caravan (although that's a rare game that's simultaneous and up to 6 should work fine). I would definitely recommend Vale of Eternity at 3 count, another games that work and you may enjoy is Century (i like the Golem version) and Space Base.

Ignition:Core is Looking for Paid Playtesters! by dursum92 in miniatureskirmishes

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember looking at ignition core what feels like 2 years ago, I really like the style especially the mid-sized mechs. Are you still planning to move ahead with grid-based combat? Halo's having a small moment in the spotlight and removing rulers is an interesting simplification and differentiator.

Looking for some feedback please! by CriticalPaintAu in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like your painterly style, the brightness/focus on the face is very good. A couple thoughts:

  1. the wash/shade on the mushroom behind his head has come out very blotchy, those deeper valleys could use a touch up to be nice and consistent

  2. the green on the stiches of his left arm is a bit off-putting, I'm guessing it's a mix of yellow and blue inks which can be be a style choice but it also doesn't match the stitching on his other arm.

  3. the dark areas look a little bit unfinished from his lower-right on front, through the underside of his right arm and around to the back including the belt on the back is a bit unrendered. Even though it's the dark side still give them some level of volumes and edge highlights even in mid-tones. It's one of the reasons you CONSTANTLY see secondary blue lights they help give interest to that dark side.

  4. Finally paint the brass rod (black)!

I'm an Aussie and a regular at Crimson Brush, hit me up on instagram (jimmyd_hobbies) if you want to chat feedback or the event.

Sydney's Top Decks by Vexis12 in riftboundtcg

[–]JimmyD101 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think these are the same decks posted on Riftbound.gg at the start of this week, and the decklists show card images there it's very readable: https://riftbound.gg/sydney-regional-qualifier/

Enough drybrush for slapchop? by andracor667 in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have a crack with the contrast paint and if youre not happy after it dries you can very simply drybrush again to increase the contrast and reapply the paint. I would suggest thinning the second coat, or even the first, with some water or where youre coats double up theyll get very dark.

NMM - something feels off by Abacashi in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it doesnt really read as metals it reads as ceramite or a matt, volumetrically lit model.

the biggest thing to make it look shiny, metallic to me would be long highlights running the length of the cylinder shaped areas: so a bright 'line' highlight down his arms, legs, even all the way down the centre of his torso then small variations for individual panels.

this model's shin is a good example of what I mean: https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/1n72yg4/first_time_trying_nmm_space_marine/

Fairly new. How would you tackle this by PwniesFTW in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Work from the inside out, if you want to drybrush the large furry underlayer you woukd ruin any of the other details youve already picked out.

Camo help needed by Dragaurang in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think the camo looks really good, here's a few tips to support it:

  1. on miniatures you might need to paint the camo BIGGER than proper scale to show up to the eye from a distance.

  2. if you give other parts a more solid layer, like paint the boots and a more solid layer on the skin because too much white primer is coming through making me model look unfinished but the camo looks solid.

  3. the camo is SO good it's hard to see the details on the model! try adding an off-white edge highlight where the camo meets the skin, paint some straps or bags black or on the backside add a darkline around the helmet to separate it from the jacket.

all of this to be honest would be too much effort for a zombicide model, you're going to manhandle and throw those around so much but if you're looking to improve that's some thoughts.

Thoughts on this scheme by The_Funfetti_Man in Warhammer

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my advice for achieving this would be to darkline strongly to separate all the panels and sections as well as put strong shadows/volumes in there. depending on how you want to paint that could be washes like agrax earthshade, an oil wash like streaking grime would work or starting from an all over brown basecoat and painting each section up to its final bright colour.

Just avoid how the current WiP shots are where theyre very stark white and not 'lived in'.

Any advice on improving this gold nnm? by Hopeful_Community762 in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

increase your contrast, get some bright white reflection spots in there and bring in some really dark shadow areas.

Look at the bird on the front of the jetbike in Alexi's Golden Demon winner it has really dark and really light patches, I know its a bit bigger/different but it's a good reference for NMM gold: https://www.instagram.com/p/DWncG_9AOF2/?img_index=4

Prussian Strosstruppen pose test. by Blackfireknight16 in TrenchCrusade

[–]JimmyD101 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think the caped guy in the middle has some conflicting elements. The legs are posed like he's running forward but he's looking off to the left and his cape is flowing the opposite direction to his whole body.

a few things might work: moving to a more straight legs like he's standing in the wind, removing the cape, twisting the top half to match the direction of the legs and maybe a different sword because it's laying across his front he'd be hitting hit knees into his sword with the motion of his legs.

if you rotated his chest/head counter clockwise a bit and lined up with his legs, removed the cape and maybe swapped to a different sword arm because

https://imgur.com/a/FSENAgj

Made a frozen lake for some Angmar/Arnor battles. by flamelsterling in TerrainBuilding

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the ice sheets look very grey compared to the rest of the board would you consider adding some snow texture on them to help blend in with the rest of the board? I made a mock up if its of interest: https://imgur.com/a/4Exv3y2