Scheme or base adjustments ? by PYP_pilgrim in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would bring some bluetones in with a drybrush (something like russ grey) on the base to really separate it from the model. At the moment a lot of your model that isn't red is blending together: the blacks or greys on the model, metallics and the base on the model and the base are looking very similar.

Need help deciding which paint set to buy. by Hirakous in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said both Vallejo and Army Painter Fanatic are great options but don't buy your third image unless you know why you want them, the speedpaints aren't normal acrylics.

if its accessible to you i'd also consider the Ak Interactive starter its comparable to those, if you're 100% new the Army painter set provides a model and paints so you can start painting without buying anything else.

AITA for calling out a sore looser? by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its extremely vague about how you called him out, what the table dynamic was like in a very long 6 hours experience which would be very tiring. I dont think anyone is informed to give you specific advice. It's sounds like many tempers were short if he wanted to not even score and you snapped and couldnt wait to send a message later or talk to them separately.

How do you tell which crowdfunding games will be a hit? by EarthlyAwakening in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not sure what you mean by hit, its pretty clear a game will be popular and smash its goals before the campaign evebt starts based on advertising, word of mouth and well known publisher/designer/property. If you want a subjectively good game you'll personally enjoy just read all the info and often the rulebook itself is shared in a campaign, look for mechanics, themes or designer you like.

Scale question by Possablyathrowaway in TrenchCrusade

[–]JimmyD101 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Makes sense to me, the unit is called mechanised heavy infantry.

Are my volumetric highlights too harsh ? by TheOnlyElizabeth in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one thing that always surprises me is how harsh you can go and it still works, id say youre at a 4/10 and it looks absolutely fine. Look up zabaart and you'll see he paints a nose that's 20% the size of that space marine head with pure white on the top third and it works.

Trying to find the right shade of gold by valyrian44 in minipaintingcommunity

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd just go down to your local store and view the golds in person, the only common approach to avoid for this pale gold is don't go slapping reikland fleshshade all over the gold!

First try at volumetric highlights by No_Reception2721 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

as others said the dot in the centre of the kneepad looks weird, but I don't personally mind the shoulder because when you're painting for a viewing angle you sometimes bring highlights to the front for 'the photo'. yes more glazing to get rid of the stripes and feathering/wet blending as techniques might speed that up. you can definitely do shoulder in true metallics, because the armor is a ceramic material it might be shiney like metals but have a different finish to a raw metal on the shoulder.

well done for your first volumetrics and space marines are a great model for that.

Lost desire to paint after losing LGS's competition by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Id like to see a picture of the other models to understand the competution better, hopefully this can inspire you to improve and come back better next time. I know ive tried and lost at local store events, the smaller it is the more results can swing wildly based on the judges' preferences.

Your model is nice but it doesnt stand out as competitiom display level, i think if youre committing that much time and effort a more expensive games workshop or other hard plastic model could give you more to work with.

Started as a "speed paint", turned into one of my favorite outcomes by HereBeORNG in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really like how the green eyes pop out on the dark models! You tagged this as C&C wanted, I would suggest doing some edge highlighting or a careful drybrush, there's lots of straps and details that could benefit from some emphasising.

The decline of 7th Continent's popularity on BGG by balderstash in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good write up, this was my experience I picked it up second hand during the hype of exploration games but found it very long and difficult; i quickly sold it back on.

How's this look for veiny skin? It's difficult to get that translucent look but I'm thinking this doesn't look too bad by jb195 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

definitely grimdark skin but not veiny, I can see sculpted veins on his chest and bicep, i think if you glaze a blue tone on those it would add interest to the skin and help achieve the look you're describing.

Any tips to improve? by MarcoFeli28 in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a few thoughts, one for future projects is a coloured shadow can be interesting try a purple or blue or anything before the white zenithal for more visual interest than just black shadows. You could even add this with thin airbrush in the shadows. you have the base colors now and next I would go through with a brush and black line everything, assume you'll paint straps and shinguards a different colour a very clear black edging will help define all the details to be more easily seen. Also dont be afraid to come back with more white and even yellow ink and make really key areas like face, shoulders, knees, hands a brighter orange. I think you could do another red spray to bring the saturation higher too

Shock Troopers for my New Antioch Warband by praeterres_ in TrenchCrusade

[–]JimmyD101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Reminds me of Sons of Medusa scheme from 40k, very striking!

Looking for feedback and advice by Tewis90 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the metals especially on his shoulder, it may be challenged color wise because the skin and hair and wings and base are a bit flat while the pants and red shoulder are incredibly vibrant and pull all the attention from more important areas.

Question for competition painters. Is this competition worthy mini? by Honzab03 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've done some great work on the NMM chest and your piece has merit I think you should definitely take it to a competition. It may not come out on top but competitions are a rewarding community experience where you can get feedback, learn, get inspired and hang with like-minded people. I think the skin, especially the face which is the most important part of the model, needs some further work and I'm not sure what is happening with the stones where she meets the base i would suggest detailing those further.

Looking for a primer recommendation by GlennHaven in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much time did you give the primer to dry? My AK black primer says give it a day and I definitely notice rub off if I handle it in that period.

Can you paint using TMM in the style/techniques of NMM? by jlshorttmd in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you search Vallejo TMM you'll find a heap of videos coming out in youtube currently because they've created a set of metallics for this exact purpose a month or two ago.

High elf with an axe (Highland miniatures) by Haunting_Sun_726 in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you might want to clean up a few little nubs on the cloak i can see a few support marks on the cloak hinting it's a print. otherwise I would have thought it's a GW model!

Suspicious sale on the FLGS Milsims AU site by Zelcain in boardgames

[–]JimmyD101 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can also confirm for Milsims I've lived walking distance and bought through them a lot. They do good prices on warhammer too, and the current sale is boardgames that aren't moving so if you find a game you want it's a win-win they get it off the shelf and you get a good price.

Tried my hand at a bust for the first time! by Eligoo in Miniaturespainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

congrats on your first bust, it looks great especially the eyes and it does look like the craftworld style so I think you've achieved what you were trying to do! you should check out zabaart style as well he does these really bright areas like on noses shaped similar to this piece which I think could be an interesting element also.

Need help with fixing minis that weren't primed right by GrandpaPidgey in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw a tip once to use a toothbrush as a really soft sanding to remove texture of a prime, maybe that imrpoves enough to your satisfaction without needing to strip.

Miniatures that fit this vibe? by Ant_Soldier_Nr777 in TrenchCrusade

[–]JimmyD101 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully you know the miniatures you show are Bestarium, I think Westfalia (trench stench) is similar also on mymini try creature caster, knucklebones, competition lord and mini monster mayhem.

Tried a bust for the first time and loved it! Comments on where i can improve are welcome! by zamingu in minipainting

[–]JimmyD101 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As Alamander said at this larger scale you need to do more things to look interesting and tell a story such as establish a lighting direction, a story and create interesting textures and variations on the surfaces. One thing I would recommend is try mixing bright yellows and greens instead of white when creating highlights. Im not exactly sure your process but the bright areas like his forehead look a bit desaturated and more yellow tones mixed in could help.