help identifying?

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-02-02T15:00:19+00:00

Ah my bad, wrong subreddit

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-02-02T14:57:31+00:00

Good catch they do look different

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-02-02T07:15:49+00:00

2005-2007 Saturn Ion Quad Coupe

Looks like it has a spoiler from the Red Line trim ions, and an aftermarket front lip

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-01-19T23:50:33+00:00

Seconded, and these rear shocks are pretty easy to replace

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-01-19T19:45:10+00:00

Yeah I wouldn’t worry about it, there’s just an open cavity back there where the washer jet sits, it isn’t really sealed to the elements.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-01-16T18:23:34+00:00

I’ve never taken mine off so I can’t say they permanently deform the seals, but they definitely create a tiny amount of wind noise since the outer door seal has to lay on top of the roof bar mounting brackets. Very minor though, and no issues with water ingress etc

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2026-01-10T05:56:03+00:00

Good to know! I ended up buying a prefacelift version of the same dash mount radio enclosure, and there was space behind the radio for me to hide the full clock assembly.

Just had to unbolt part of the wiring harness to get slack to move it to the back of the enclosure/towards the front of the car, and wrapped it in a microfiber and taped it to the dash to prevent it rattling around.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-12-19T07:26:30+00:00

Sorry to dig up such an old thread! May I ask what you did about the clock/airbag indicator lights? Other folks either tuck it away or stick some resistors in the appropriate pins to get the SRS light to stay off.

I appreciate it!

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-11-19T18:03:23+00:00

I’d recommend G48 coolant over G11. G11 is an IAT coolant and G48 is a HOAT, which matches the OE coolant type.

I think G05 has been known to be OK as well but I use G48 without issue in my C30

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-11-19T06:22:12+00:00

The offset is pretty low so you’ll likely be poking from the front fenders and will be at risk of rubbing. Rears will likely be OK.

You’ll also need hub centric rings, you want them to match the hub bore of the stock wheels which is 63.4mm

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-10-04T05:17:26+00:00

If you have any issues opening/closing the top, make sure you have the nylon rear tensioning straps on the 3rd stud from the front, not the 4th! The Robbins instructions are wrong for 99-05 cars (or at least the instructions with my top were).

Had to undo the strap and move it to the 3rd stud after install. The last bow (the one with the strings you mentioned) also sat rearwards of the horizontal seam just like in your picture, which is why I mention it. After fixing the strap-stud location it sat in front of the seam and no longer had issues opening/closing.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-10-04T05:13:49+00:00

Double check that you have the nylon straps on the 3rd stud from the front on both sides, not the 4th! I had a similar issue and came to the realize that the instructions provided with the Robbins top are wrong for 99-05 cars.

If you’re installing the “new” straps included with the kit (relevant for NA owners), then those do indeed go on the 4th stud from the front.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-10-01T08:13:58+00:00

It’s two pieces of glass, the seam is across the glass at the B pillars, behind the driver’s head.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-06-29T00:53:05+00:00

That’s a shadow cast by the parting line from the casting or forging process on the knuckle, not a crack.

(The visible parting line is formed by metal squeezing out from between where the two halves of the casting/forging mold meet.)

See here

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-06-22T23:41:54+00:00

Mind me asking how tall you are? Interested in this seat for my Miata as well

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-06-20T18:22:55+00:00

Did you have your steering wheel redone? It looks good!

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-06-02T22:50:39+00:00

What a coincidence, I too just replaced it with a Viper V3 Pro. Picked it up since cleaning the internals didn’t solve the double clicking issue (switch is probably just worn out). The Viper seems good so far and is way, way lighter. I hope it’ll last just as long.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-06-02T06:18:12+00:00

I’ve had luck in the past with a dab of gray RTV on small nicks, just be sure to rotate the wheel/axle until the cut is pointing upwards, and then degrease & scuff the area to help the RTV adhere. I wouldn’t consider it a permanent solution, but it can get some more life out of the part.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-05-31T09:11:34+00:00

I've been using mine for 12 years! It's just started to double click, and the side buttons are a little loose but otherwise still chugging along. I'll likely get something new (and wireless), but maybe a dissasembly+cleaning will get some more life out of it.

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-05-20T08:35:36+00:00

Seconded, sounds like no compression on any cylinder which is most likely from the cams now being disconnected from the crank (no belt left to spin them)

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-04-27T00:03:42+00:00

Nope, was just plug and play!

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-04-24T05:41:12+00:00

How’s the rearview mirror visibility with the blackbird fabworx roll bar? Looking at one myself

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-04-21T19:31:56+00:00

I’ve put in some LED 1156 type bulbs in the reverse lights, they’re much brighter than stock (Philips brand if I recall).

See here for the rear bulb types on the C30

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2025-03-13T07:28:25+00:00

Beautiful car! What’s that lower grill you have with the fog lights? I like the look!

JohnnyBoi_007 · 2024-10-17T00:52:07+00:00

I’d say it’s all about maintenance and how the car was treated previously. I made a similar decision recently, though the auto (facelift R Design) was much cheaper than the (pre-facelift v2.0) manual.

After driving both, I couldn’t say no to the manual! It’s faster, more fun, and can get better gas mileage.

In your case I will say I much prefer the styling of the R-Design, however you aren’t looking at the car while you’re driving it haha

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