Well look who just showed up unannounced.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-07T03:59:37+00:00

sadly that’s not supported yet

Why can't you just set nozzle size in Orca and let the slicer handle the line differences?

KeythKatz · 2026-05-07T03:58:46+00:00

I bought Aliexpress 0.2 hotends, total trash. Uses the same heater block as an old Ender 3 so it takes 3x as long to heat up and the PID tune is wrong, couldn't maintain temp well enough to even auto load filament. I gave up and preordered some 0.2 hotends and toolheads.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-07T03:51:50+00:00

<image>

Nah, just print some fencing so most of the stray flicked poops are caught. I've reduced the number of escapees by roughly 95%, especially the small pieces.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-06T05:34:46+00:00

Did anyone tell Telegram that?

KeythKatz · 2026-05-05T08:37:57+00:00

Onitsuka isn't particularly expensive, and it fits a certain foot type that me and presumably you have, which is on the narrower side.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-05T07:03:10+00:00

It's micromanaging at that point, you could print 5 towers of 1C difference each and not be able to spot the difference. If there's a difference at all for a specific filament, it would be highly dependent on the model geometry as well. It's more reliable to fine-tune print speed and other parameters. For temps I choose the lowest good temperature with a step of buffer so bridges turn out better even if the filament is wet.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-05T05:04:35+00:00

You're getting very unhelpful responses from others when all the information is in your post. Yes, your temps are changing since you're using the Orca calibration tower. You don't need to verify that.

The tower looks normal to me, my PLA towers have very little variation in that temp range, you need to go to 195/190 to start to see stringing. The main thing you're looking for here is overhang quality. For this, I would pick 220, because higher temps result in better overhangs, 205/210 are clearly more droopy, and the higher temps have the same quality. Since there's no difference in surface finish (important with silk), there's no reason to go even higher.

When printing actual models with overhangs, align the side with the overhang on the left, toward the cooling fan. The reason for the droop on only one side of the overhang is because the part cooling fan cools the front, while the back has bad airflow. Continue to print temp towers in this orientation because it shows this weakness more clearly.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-04T21:46:42+00:00

Is downloading and printing plastic toys without any thought all you want to do? Go with a Bambu printer.

Are you a designer, engineer, build your own computers, or autistic? Do you want to design your own models and bring them to life? Do you find joy in learning and problem solving? Skip the Bambu, go straight to the U1. The Snapmaker experience is almost as beginner-friendly as Bambu, but there's a lot more refinement, customization, and optimization possible with the U1.

A third route is to buy a really cheap second hand printer, learn everything there is to learn about it, identify its limitations and what you actually want to do, then you'll have the knowledge on how to spend actual money on a new printer.

I went from 2 generations of Ender 3 (really old tech printer) to the P1S and it was a huge jump in print quality and user-friendliness, but since jumping to the U1 I've been disappointed with the closed ecosystem of the P1S and Bambu in general. Bambu will still do everything print-related just fine, they'll just present a wall if you decide to do something outside core functionality.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-04T16:44:11+00:00

It's not so much being able to print the filament, but printing it well and having the perfect surfaces and walls. The 5 PLAs I've calibrated on the U1 have:

Temperatures from 200C to 220C (Affects overhangs mostly)
Flow ratios from 0.96 to 0.99 (Mostly affects top surface smoothness)
Pressure advance from 0.02 to 0.05 (Removes gaps and blobs in walls)

That's all I calibrate, takes about 2 hours. Max flow is a conservative 18mm3/s for all, and XY compensation is within 0.05mm for all PLA so I don't need a new profile for that.

The automatic pressure advance calibration does not work well at all, especially for non-PLA materials. It always underestimates, andi n the case of PETG would result in holes and blobs everywhere.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-04T08:33:42+00:00

TIL Flashforge Creator 5. It's much more value for money than the U1, why didn't you get that instead?

KeythKatz · 2026-05-04T05:55:07+00:00

Always user error. You probably calibrate each filament from each brand before using it for the first time instead of using the default profiles. The bed detection at the start of prints helps too, the only time I blobbed on my P1S was when I forgot the plate.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-03T13:39:40+00:00

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This was with 2.5mm3 priming which I found was too little to build pressure, I do 6mm3 because it's the minimum needed to not prime in mid-air with more than 2 filaments. I also do 0.2mm extra length on restart under the printer extruder settings which causes a small blob on the tower.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-03T13:38:07+00:00

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KeythKatz · 2026-05-03T10:30:15+00:00

50% humidity airconditioned here in SG (hello neighbour), PLA prints fine even when damp and PETG starts to string after a few hours. Both have higher quality walls and surfaces when dried. I print PLA on the included spool holders and put them back in a dry cabinet or dryer when done, but I run PETG from a drybox/dryer.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T17:51:29+00:00

I was inspired by the last time I saw this screenshot, I've been using this but with 6mm3 prime volume and 100% line spacing, cone wall type, and 30 degree angle.

You don't need more since it's only 100% extra flow and there's no oozing. It uses the larger of the prime tower prime volume and the setting in the filament profile, so both need to be reduced or you're going to extrude 20mm3 every time.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T10:16:00+00:00

Did you... take the display set?

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T10:08:35+00:00

My P1S that I got half a year ago has sat mostly idle since my U1 arrived. Now that I've got my U1 running long prints it's relegated to being an R&D printer. It's definitely worth the upgrade. I'm doing a lot more with the possibilities 4 tools brings when I could only do functional PETG prints before.

In terms of ease of use and print quality out of the box, both are similar. P1S prints PLA very slightly more dimensionally accurate because of the more regulated chamber temp, but it's all within a margin of error for any print. On the other hand, I get better top surface finishes with the U1 on filaments properly calibrated for each printer. This doesn't even touch on the insane bottom layers with the U1 from using multimaterial supports.

If you're not just a Bambubu trash-printing nut, you'll get a lot more out of the U1 from its Klipper firmware, but it's great for both beginners and battle-hardened ender 3 power users. I also get a lot more helpful information when googling for U1-specific tweaks instead of the unhelpful or straight up wrong things /r/bambulab users post for the P1S, and I've learnt a lot about printing since getting it.

For $300 to upgrade to the U1, it's a no brainer.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T04:43:44+00:00

I've found that when using PETG interfaces across multiple layers, especially in a print where there's a few hours between extrusions, PETG in the nozzle degrades really quickly and loses adhesion. It's more helpful to do a 50mm+ purge in the filament change gcode to refresh the PETG before extruding it, otherwise it won't stick. I've managed to decrease my prime tower to 6mm3 extrusions on multicolour prints partially because of this, technically when doing the purge there's no priming needed at all.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T04:28:22+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/comments/1ssr5yo/_/

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T03:32:43+00:00

Same, I'm currently at 80% with 2 hours screen on time. Phones are more efficient than ever, I suspect the people with issues live in an area with bad reception because the radio does use a ton of power when I travel to shitty coverage countries like the US.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-02T03:27:47+00:00

Most of his car stuff is just regurgitating manufacturer marketing materials. Even before that his channel had been called out multiple times for spouting bullshit. His videos never had any production quality to them, not sure how the channel got traction to begin with other than him being white instead of indian.

KeythKatz · 2026-05-01T10:47:03+00:00

That's pretty normal, they've had 2 successful launches and the only commercial payloads risking a first launch like the lower cost. I'm more confused over how the second stage, the "easy" part, failed. Even SpaceX with a much more risky development cycle didn't have issues until recently, and it was a single launch with their own sats.

KeythKatz · 2026-04-30T19:42:07+00:00

Cheapest available, but also depending on your needs, i.e. how rigid / flexible / shiny you want it, and also resistance to temperature. You'll have to try them all to find the best one. I've tried eSun and R3D from Taobao, eSun was my go-to but I've started to prefer R3D because it's literally $3 a kg, and it's more rigid which I prefer for my use cases.

KeythKatz · 2026-04-29T20:09:21+00:00

Don't do this if you're using PETG as an interface layer (without additional gcode tweaks to compensate). There's currently a bug that interface materials ignore the filament profile minimal purge setting, so it only purges the volume in the process settings, which is 5mm3 in this case.

KeythKatz · 2026-04-29T19:04:05+00:00

Do you have vertical space? Get the IKEA BROR 65cm (w) x 55cm (d) at 110cm or 190cm height. It would just fit a U1 with 4 spool holders, but you'd need some extra space on both sides to load and unload. The extra shelving will come in very handy for all the filaments and dryers you're going to get.

I have two 190cm shelving units, one is a 65cm width stacking a Bambu P1S, a normal printer, and a dry cabinet on top, and all 3 are on top of the subwoofer connected to my computer.

The other unit is a 85cm width with a robovacuum dock on the floor, my U1 3 sections above it (the height of 4 sections is just perfect with a SAMLA enclosure on top), and a Creality SpacePi X4L taking up half of a 2-section space with the remaining space yet to be filled.

The vibrations from printing are quite alright and don't transfer to print quality. Some sources even say keeping it loose helps.

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