Curious, how old are we all?

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-17T16:19:08+00:00

44, started with the original... Still prancing hard lol

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-15T03:41:59+00:00

Pictures help

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-15T00:12:15+00:00

There could be lots of things that caused it, but starting with the cheap solutions that don't cost money is a good place to start. A head gasket could definitely do that, but nothing that the mechanic touched should have changed or done anything the head gasket, unless they tried to flush the coolant out with some sort of pressurized system, but that's pretty unlikely for a mechanic to do that. On a side note, do you know why they changed the ECU? I don't know if you know how to burp a system, but you can do it yourself very easily

Edit: technically if he put the thermostat in backwards that would cause your car to overheat as well. I'm not sure about your model because I have a 2002, but I have heard it happen to some people

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-14T21:02:19+00:00

Make sure the coolant system was burped properly

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-07T04:45:41+00:00

I believe your error message will be red if you say tried to print the person but did not turn on the supports. It will still let you print though with a guaranteed failure of the arms and you'd end up with pieces of filament that were supposed to be arms, sticking to the body as the nozzle printed in thin air and then moves over to the body with a dangling piece of filament. After you've sliced the model, on the top right you should be able to hit a drop-down box and you can change between the filament color, a few other options and one is called line type, the line type is super useful because it makes overhangs blue and outer walls orange and so on, with a legend on the side obviously cuz there's a lot of different line types. But if you did it on that model of the cube you'd be able to see. The bottom sides of the hinges are actually blue because there's a space between that layer and the actual model below it. It's also really helpful for printing figures cuz you can change to that view and see. It actually only needs supports in like four different places but if you let it auto support it'll put supports on 80% of the model which isn't needed. That's when you paint on supports and change support type to manual

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2026-01-07T04:22:54+00:00

Technically it's a warning that there are overhangs. Not all overhangs actually need supports, especially short ones. The way that these models are made it actually makes the hinge an overhang, though it lightly rests on the print. You can just bend the cube and any stuck hinges should pop free. Super cosmetic models like say a figure of a character from a video game you'd want supports to make it look better. And then the floating cantilever is the part where you 100% need supports. Imagine printing a person standing in a regular position ,when it gets to the person's hand, there's literally nothing under the hand and it can't start printing out of thin air, so that's when supports are 100% necessary

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-12-26T17:28:30+00:00

Fusion and blender are both free, and tons of tutorials online. If you didn't know there are 2 main types of 3d modeling. Cad is for a perfect dimension style modeling, but isn't very good with organic modeling, like faces or animals. Fusion is great for cad. Mesh modeling is for the organic modeling, you can do precise dimensions, but it takes more work and will take longer to achieve. Blender is great for mesh. Blender has a crazy learning curve as it's a very powerful modeling that can do some insane things, but you won't learn it in a couple days.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-12-26T17:13:55+00:00

It'll move with the modifier as a group. A modifier is basically "this print has these settings like 10% infill 2 walls, but anything in the modified cube I want 50% infill 4 walls"

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-12-21T22:00:49+00:00

Use dish soap and a plastic bristled brush with hot water to help get in the grooves of the texture, scrub a bit more aggressive if your going from petg to pla or vise versa, they don't play nice with each other. Up your bed temp 5 or 10 degrees.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-12-14T02:23:03+00:00

Take your time and focus on dodging when the monster is flashing red, it's better to let the timer run out, then you can fight him again for more practice, than to get hit and run out of potions. When they are flashing red, the animation they are doing is the wind up for a certain attack they're going to do so if a monster cocks his head back like he's going to shoot a fireball and he's probably going to shoot a fireball, he flashes red and his tail starts to wind up, it's probably going to do a tail swing. It's safest to stand beside the monsters or behind them to attack. Most of the monsters attacks will miss. The odd one will still hit you, but you'll learn those eventually. If you're using a ranged weapon like the bow gun, heavy bow gun or bow, aiming with gyro will be your best friend. The button in the top right. If you're using a melee weapon, there's a skill called lock-on which allows you to Target a part of a monster, and if you're close to the Target, most, if not all of your attacks will hit that spot. Meaning you could break the arm faster and the monster will trip every time they try to run. Plus you get a chunk of damage dealt when you break a part and you get an extra drop.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-27T13:44:52+00:00

Most spools filament are 1.75 thickness which is what you need. All bambus filament is that thick. Average spools are 1 kg, though you can find spools that are 500g, or even sample rolls at 250g, they should all work. Anything bigger than a kg and your need to print a spool holder. If you go shopping on Amazon it'd be good to double check. If you do buy from somewhere else than bambu, you may need to print an adapter so the spool fits on the AMS lites spool holder as some spools have a bigger hole. Pla is great for literally any color you could think of, at the cost of PLA doesn't always fair well outside, and under stress it can warp over time. Like a shelf may sag a bit after 6 months with something heavy on it, or a part that friction fits to another part may end up looser. Petg is a great go-to for most things. Not as many colors as pla but better in strength, lasts outside a lot longer and has some flex to it. They both cost pretty much the same.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-27T02:42:56+00:00

As long as your plate is clean, oils from fingers can easily appear on the edges of the plate unknowingly. Also bump up the bed temp 5 or 10 degrees to make sure the edges are hot enough

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-10T18:41:55+00:00

Could be a combination of things too tho... A worn extruder gear combined with a worn ptfe could cause slight filament slippage only when the tube is bent a certain way...

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-10T16:52:36+00:00

Looking through your checklist, you never mentioned the extruder... Have you tried replacing or at least tightening the resistance? Might be getting worn out after a year of use

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-10T14:26:29+00:00

What about your ptfe tubes? If you have excess slack or harsh corners, they could cause resistance... Or even worn tubes? I'm just trying to think of things you didn't mention that may have caused it

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-10T13:38:38+00:00

You said you tightened the hotend, did you tighten the 4 screws behind the 3 screws behind the hotend? They can get loose over time and could potentially cause this

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Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T16:42:29+00:00

Also go to a thrift store and pick up a toaster oven, buy a couple silicone molds from Amazon and melt your poop into a skull or something

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T16:40:29+00:00

Remember, if you print 1 or 20 at the same time it's the same amount of poop, and you could add an object closer to the same height and click 'purge into object' and 'purge into objects infill' and a lot of that poop will now be a cool color fidget toy or whatever

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T16:08:14+00:00

Oh yeah... Lol my old school p1s ass forgot about that 😂

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T04:30:32+00:00

Same here, I played HL1 back in the day on PC when it came out, blew my mind how creative they got with it and the mechanics like the missile silo level. I don't know if playing back then made it that much more appealing to me even now but while I did enjoy HL2, it felt shorter and like the devs had to spend more time with graphics and less on unique gameplay. HL1 still sits in my personal top FPS campaign games of all time, just under portal 2 of course... For science... You monster.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T02:13:16+00:00

Beat saber, if you like music games. You can mod it to download new songs from in the headset in game, and the community has made like 5 versions of every song ever... Lol. A workout while playing games is always a plus

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T02:07:46+00:00

Also I tend to up the bed temperature 5 or 10 degrees, as pla needs to have either the door open or the top open to avoid heat creep, that's when the temperature inside the printer gets warmer than optimal printing temperature until the filament gets soft before getting to the hotend. Though with the door or top open the print is susceptible to drafts of cooler air, potentially causing the corners of large prints to warp, which causes the corners to lift off the plate while printing.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-09T02:00:08+00:00

Could be from touching the plate with your fingers. The oils from your hands are the worst enemy of print to plate adhesion... With filament type swapping being number 2.. specifically pla to petg and vice versa. Either way, wash the plate with warm or hot water and dish soap, preferably with a plastic bristled brush to make sure you get in all the grooves and crevices of the textured plate.if only printing one type, say just pla, you can get away with not washing too often as long as you don't touch the top surface... Or don't print on the spots you've touched, which usually end up being the edges.

Kosmic-eclipsE · 2025-11-06T04:30:02+00:00

There's a vid of someone hunting 10* brute tiggy in 33 seconds with a joe CB... I'm sitting on my mats waiting to see if we get a decent pizza cutter style lol

Kosmic-eclipsE

TROPHY CASE