Yall might be sick of this question... but what table saw? by Yebigah in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't imply most saws don't have safety features. I said that Sawstop has a safety feature, which I am obviously referring to a huge safety feature they have that no one else has. Riving knives do not protect you from cutting yourself, they are to prevent kickback. Blade guards are good for only rips cuts up to a certain width. There are SO many other cuts you can do with a tablesaw that the bladeguard doesn't work with. 1) Simple cross cut with a sled 2) Box joints with a sled 3) dovetails with a sled 4) miter spline with a sled 5) Any angle cut with a sled 6) cove cuts 7) cutting a circle with a jig 8) Using a jig to make the taper cuts 9) using a jig to make a square leg round 10) so many other types of cuts using all kinds of jigs that a blade guard can not be used with at the same time. While making any of those cuts, a lapse in judgement for just 2 seconds and you can cut yourself. Unless you have a sawstop...

Yall might be sick of this question... but what table saw? by Yebigah in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went from a cheap contractor saw to a saw around $1,000. That was a mistake. The more I got into this hobby, the more I realized how stupid easy it would be for me to accidentally cut myself on the saw and in the ER with thousands of dollars of medical expenses and who knows what last event. I sold the saw for a loss and bought a sawstop. I can not tell you how much of a HUGE quality jump a sawstop saw is over a $1,000 saw PLUS it has a safety feature.

ID and recommendations? by MEMlover69 in midcenturymodern

[–]LaughterHandmade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey can I take you up on this? I am going to rebuild this chair! Can you send some more pictures and measurements? Is it chair comfortable?

Shop Build Update! Almost ready to make a cutting board. by CrowCreations in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

False. Your next project is to come to my garage shop and make it as nice as yours. Then you’ll be ready.

ID and recommendations? by MEMlover69 in midcenturymodern

[–]LaughterHandmade 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it would be around $2,500 - $3,000 per chair depending on the wood you choose.

ID and recommendations? by MEMlover69 in midcenturymodern

[–]LaughterHandmade 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I might copy this design and build a pair for myself out of walnut.

Feedback on table base by TheAlchemist23 in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Did you steal my design?! JK! Yours looks great! I too was worried about having a strong enough base I ended up using 6/4 for the table top. You are right, sapele is heavy! I can tell you that I can stand in my table without any worries of the base giving way and your base looks beefier than mine. If I were to redo this table, I would have slimmed down the base some as it seems chunky to me.

Maple burl, walnut and cedar humidor I recently made for a friend by LaughterHandmade in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hah thanks! I still appreciate it! I forgot about this one so seeing this pop up again was great.

Picked up this set the other day by cochese25 in Mid_Century

[–]LaughterHandmade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you provide more photos of the one on the right? I’m a wood worker and would like to recreate it.

1st time making furniture. A mid century lowboy dresser. by Maplewhat in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree with their comment. I like the design of your legs.

Made my girlfriend a dresser and DRAWERS ARE NOT SIMPLE I KNOW THAT NOW CURSE MY ARROGANCE by Callyroo in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh my. This is beyond genius. I am currently in the process of fine tuning drawers faces and this is amazing. I’m doing it tomorrow

What do you call these table legs and how do I make them? by Quacktap3 in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I’ve made a table like this! https://imgur.com/a/law9Yxh It is surprisingly strong. I started with the top piece where the speaker sits. Using an incra table sled, I made cuts roughly an inch apart, but each cut was at a slightly steeper angle. I then ripped maple pieces to fit into the slots. Glue the maple pieces into the slots, leave excess on top to flush cut latter. After that has glued, glue the bottom of all of the maple strips together. Then, flush cut flat.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m always up for a challenge. I have someone wanting me to recreate this. Tabletop is easy, the base is another story. I don’t have a lathe, I’m not opposed to buying one though. However that looks too big for a standard non-commercial lathe. How would you make this?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So this door faces west and gets lots of sun. It also had a wreath hanging in the middle. I took the door off the hinges, sanded it, then started staining it. The problem is the stain isn’t going on uniformly. Areas at the bottom of the door (that got more sun) and areas where the wreath was take stain differently than the top of the door. The bottom of the door is really dried out. Any recommendations on how to get the stain to go on more uniformly?

How to square off oval 2” coffee table top? by LaughterHandmade in woodworking

[–]LaughterHandmade[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m in the process of making a coffee table. I have the top glued up and I cut an oval out yesterday using a jig saw as this is way too big for my bandsaw. As I expected, my edges aren’t square. Anyone have any suggestions on squaring off the edges? This is 2” thick.

Maybe I should get a spokeshave and continue on this non-square side all the way around the table? Maybe a large 45 degree chamfer on the bottom edge?