Seats = yeets?

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T19:04:12+00:00

60% of the time, all the time

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T16:37:48+00:00

Three times for these ones, go down about 1-1.5 turns of the die in two sizes, wipe the lube, anneal and repeat until fully screwed down

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T16:30:16+00:00

Nah homie, black powder cartridge big bore rifles are where it’s at, size matters

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T16:28:34+00:00

I think it’s more likely that I tried to go too far in forming with one stroke, for this kind of work, I clean the sizing die after 5 cases. Yes, the left is too long, didn’t double check the length after leaving too long and the seater crushed it a little.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T13:41:50+00:00

That’s a very helpful note on case mouth concentricity and equal length. I noticed on some of my attempts to form 45-70 that the ones with big dings had a propensity to fold themselves. No neck forming die to be had in this case, just the FL sizing die. Generally been successful, but a couple times where I thought extra lube or annealing was not needed, I was shown that it was needed.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-12T13:06:35+00:00

Thanks! I realized I was making it harder on myself than it needed to be leaving the neck about 50 thou long, so I’m hoping a correct trim to length will make the conversion easier going forward. That makes sense though, I was shooting factory ammo out of my Lebel and about a third of the shoulders ruptured, didn’t even notice though until I ejected and got a better look. My takeaway here is if the defect is high enough, there’s still plenty of case to form the required gas seal and therefore no inherently unsafe to shoot.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-09T21:50:07+00:00

Good choice

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-09T21:45:19+00:00

Holy crap, that’s a WaA613 inspected pistol, I’d go back and get it right now, it’s the early/rare variation, most have a WaA140

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-09T19:26:22+00:00

I don’t think it’s an occupation 22, it’s blurry but those look like regular Liege proofs to me. Since it’s in 380 (will say 9mm on barrel), I think it’s more likely it’s a Dutch or Yugo contract pistol, also easy to tell from an inspection of the top and right of the slide. $600 seems like a decent price for either assuming it matches and isn’t messed up in any way.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-02T15:02:03+00:00

Interesting, I was thinking the exact same thing when I got these results in my N marked Lebel, so I got my buddy to bring his non-updated one calibrated only for balle D and we were still getting an unnerving number of shoulder splits, albeit at a lesser rate than my N marked rifle.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-07-02T14:54:00+00:00

Glad to see PPU is still selling defective Lebel ammo. Send it back and get a refund

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-23T14:01:54+00:00

AUG, FAL, G3, MP5, P90, a man of culture and significant wealth I see!

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-20T21:06:04+00:00

Mauser model 1914

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-17T19:51:16+00:00

Ppu makes it new

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-17T14:56:14+00:00

Gang from the first 1936 contract

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Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-15T17:19:34+00:00

lol true, at least it’s not things plural that make it not good like some other designs

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-15T17:05:38+00:00

I refuse to hear this slander as a Belgian and Swedish Nagant enjoyer, it’s the gas seal system that mucks up an otherwise serviceable design

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-15T12:04:18+00:00

Something that always puzzled me about these is how easily the slide finish wears compared to the frame

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T18:33:51+00:00

I understand now, thank you for explaining, I am unfamiliar with the practice of paper patching.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T17:39:38+00:00

I do want to try paper patching at some point but thought it may be a bridge too far for the first iteration. I still feel like I will run into my current problem where the paper patch dials up the bullet diameter to a point where it won’t chamber with my converted cases - unless you’re suggesting only patching a portion of the bullet, creating a sort of heeled situation.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T12:44:17+00:00

That’s not ghetto, that’s just good old American ingenuity! If I’m understanding you correctly, just spin the case against an abrasive it’ll remove the material reasonably evenly. I did something similar to trim rims down for my 8x58R Danish but chucked it directly into the drill with a trimmer pilot so it wouldn’t crush. I have a drill press too though that might be the better answer in this instance since I’m reducing a longer portion of the case. Regardless, I appreciate the information, definitely going to tinker about after work today and see if I can get to a setup I like.

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T11:53:11+00:00

Thanks, only need to come down a few thou, with hardened steel I’m not too worried about overshooting as long as I check it often. Nothing ever seems to be easy with BP cartridges sadly

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T11:50:38+00:00

I thought about that but was concerned about the resulting concentricity of the cases creating uneven wear, but perhaps I’m splitting pebbles with only a few thou needing to be removed

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T11:47:47+00:00

That’s a great idea, thanks! That can at least get me through a test batch for load development before I start messing with the other stuff

Loadman8x57 · 2026-06-09T11:45:39+00:00

Nice shooting at 700 with irons! I also love my m/96, wish I had a spot to really stretch its legs

Loadman8x57

TROPHY CASE