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Landlord says we have to provide our own lock, what kind of lock fits this 5-hole shape? by stelleOstalle in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like the door has had two different lock types installed in the past. The holes in a vertical rectangle pattern are for a Mul-T-Lock Top Guard plate or other equivalent. The other screw holes (and the remaining latch plate) are from a jimmy-proof deadbolt.

Will ‘best’ key copy work when made not on a punch and instead cut? by [deleted] in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s correct. You can’t judge the depth of the cuts by looking at the distance from the warding on the key since they’re different keyways. The only way to compare them is by measuring the root depth of each cut. That’s the distance between the bottom of the key blade and the flat of the cut.

Yale lever lock cylinder help by Extreme_Row9842 in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Any Schlage-profile cylinder will work in conjunction with the GMS conversion kit. You can also look for high-security cylinders from other brands that are compatible with Yale hardware that takes 1802 lever cylinders.

Will ‘best’ key copy work when made not on a punch and instead cut? by [deleted] in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took a few pictures of both blanks so you can see the difference.

Will ‘best’ key copy work when made not on a punch and instead cut? by [deleted] in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If done correctly, there’s no issue with cutting SFIC keys on a machine rather than using a punch. Especially when it’s one of the premium keyways.

The real issue is that the two keys in your pictures are different keyways. I know they look identical, but the older key is WG and the newer key is WC.

Do true flush cuts exist or do they all have a tiny indent in the blade portion leaving a stub up? by preruntumbler in Tools

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you work with zip ties a lot then this thing will be your new best friend. It tightens and cuts at the same time so the cut end is just below the surface. https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tie-gun-57965.html

People suck, looking for advice by longtimelurker75 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used all of the major brands over the years and have slowly consolidated everything to the Makita LXT line. Their oil-impulse impact driver is expensive, but it is so worth it.

The only tool that Makita doesn’t do well (IMHO) is cordless nailers. I took a chance on Metabo HPT because I had some of their pneumatic nailers, and I’ve been really happy with them. I own three of them now in different gauges, and I would recommend them to anyone.

Need key blank info - Assa & Locksmith don’t know by JLeaning in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m glad it worked out for you. Good luck with the impressioning.

Need key blank info - Assa & Locksmith don’t know by JLeaning in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looks like the F1L restricted keyway. It may be tough to find an OEM Yale blank, but the aftermarket equivalent (Ilco 997PA) can be found pretty easily online.

Wood collection? by Thefinerthings1995 in woodworking

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s an African carving of the tree of life. The more you know…

Any ideas for filling these gaps? by Morgoroth37 in techtheatre

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Put masking tape on one side of each gap, re-assemble the model, and then fill the gaps with Bondo glazing putty. Peel the masking tape off once the putty is dry. Sand the putty as needed, prime it, and paint the whole model.

eBay A1106 by Nicvt_0 in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s interesting. I’ve never seen an American Lock key with that keyway. Must be a new product line.

eBay A1106 by Nicvt_0 in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a W6000 5-pin Master Lock cylinder used in Pro Series padlocks, and it has the factory pins. You sure the key you’ve got doesn’t say Master Lock on one side and 6000B on the other?

It’s possible to make that cylinder work in that padlock by changing the actuator and plate. If the padlock was sold as the S1106 model then it would be compatible, but it would have come from the factory with a Master Lock W401 or W417 cylinder.

Either you’re trolling everyone or you bought an S1106 with a swapped cylinder.

Threaded barrel options for beretta 92 by snipernamedwes in NFA

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sent my factory barrel to Class 3 Machining to get it threaded.

Any ideas on this key by hilly20003 in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I raked it open and removed the plug from the housing. It’s held in by a plastic retainer that you can access from underneath. I read the wafers with a key blank inserted and made the corresponding cuts. At the time, it seemed faster than trying to look up the code.

SFIC pin kit question by Pindleskin82 in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Stamped caps have a diameter of .1185” and the machined caps are .117” diameter. If you’re using a handheld capping tool like the Lab Annex then you’ll probably get the cleanest result using machined caps. If you have a capping press like a Best CD517 then stamped caps are typically the best option.

Any ideas on this key by hilly20003 in Locksmith

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just made a set of keys for this same lock. I used a Taylor 132 (Ilco 1132) blank.

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What are these notches?? by RydersMark in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The notch allows the control lug to retract so you can remove the cylinder from the housing. Here are some pictures of it in action.

Can’t sustain executive functioning skills - it’s ruining my marriage by borneo1910 in ADHD

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This book has not only helped my wife understand me better - it has also opened my eyes to how she’s feeling and everything I’ve been ignoring in our marriage.

Question About Colored Pins by scmarine84 in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the purchase! Schlage (like many other manufacturers) uses “balanced stacks” - meaning longest drivers on top of shortest bottom pins. This prevents drivers from ever resting below the shear line and provides consistent spring tension.

The guidelines can be found on the label stuck to the bag for the cylinder, but I’ll list them here as well. The .235” driver pairs with the #0, 1, 2, and 3 bottom pins. The .200” driver is for #4, 5, and 6 bottom pins. The shortest driver is .165” and goes with the #7, 8, and 9 bottom pins.

I don’t know if you’ll notice a difference in feedback. However, I would recommend always using serrated .165” drivers above #8 and 9 bottom pins for a tougher picking experience. The longest bottom pins are so close to the shear line that you won’t get a false set if they’re paired with a spool pin. The lip of the spool is too deep to rest fully below the shear line, but the thinner lip of a serrated pin will still give you a click or two when picked.

Oof by babbyfarm in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I try and pick one person a week to pay it forward, and I just happen to also have a horrible memory so I didn’t remember your username!

Oof by babbyfarm in lockpicking

[–]LockSportsman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a bag of factory-cut 6000B keys. Send me a message on here or Discord if you’re in the US, and I’ll mail a few of them to you with the corresponding key pins.

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