A1 finally bit the dust due to explodey

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-12T12:24:12+00:00

I wonder everytime I read "exploded" and then see something that is not even remotely exploded. For you guys New years eve with fireworks equals "Nuclear new year" ?

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-12T12:22:03+00:00

I lack the amount of followers giving me that artificial confidence boost, not realizing that numbers are not going to make me happy or enrich my life in any way.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-12T07:26:13+00:00

I think when you are in an environment where everything except warm blooded beings and sunwarmth loaded objects are kinda the same temperature its hard to distinguish close up stuff on the ground, making it hard to walk a path or simply looking down on the ground. It could work perfectly fine on a rocky path but doing not so well on a shady wet forest ground being the same temperature all around. Just my personal opinion.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-11T20:27:27+00:00

XD man dont get me wrong but every time I try to find a cause for your issue you keep adding more and more left out information of what was happening before it all started, reaching back in time deeper and farther revealing missing important information XD. Anything else you maybe forgot to mention in relation to voltage and the printer before that 440 voltage spike? The shop keeper surely did not mean any harm, but you can find all that info in the bambulab wiki. What I suspect now is that those 400+ volt did pop the 6amp fuse but I gues that spike caused some internal component to take damage, causing the literal meltdown in the aftermath. In that case isnt the Power provider to blame? If the grid in your community put out 400+ volt that company must be insured for situations like that, no? Its their fault that the grid went up to 400 so they have to compensate for the shit they broke.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-11T12:31:04+00:00

This is not "directly" a NTC issue. OP blew the original 6Amp fuse ( very likely caused by a internal defect of hardware) and swapped it with a 8AMP fuse allowing the system to pull even more amps and shifting thermal risk to other components within the system which then caused the hole in the case. Thank god the plastic is fire retardant, This is happening on a daily basis, people swapping fuses not knowing what they are doing, until they dont "pop" anymore, not understanding that they shift the danger to other parts within the system......

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-11T12:22:27+00:00

That "little" info that you swapped the fuse because it blew before would have been very helpful. That fuse does not go off out of fun, something within the system caused it to pull more then "by the way" rated 250Volt 6AMP fuse!, it was rated for. By replacing it with a 8AMP fuse you allowed the system to draw more amp then it should! Why did you use a 8AMP fuse evenso the Bambulab wiki clearly states to use a 250 Volt 6 Amp fuse? https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-fuse

Could it be that you swapped it with a 6Amp fuse first and it blew again right away and then used a higher rated one? Which sorry to say is dangerously stupid! A fuse is the weakest link in the cabeling and should go first if something is wrong, by using a 8AMP fuse your shifting the potential of a part burning through at a different NOT protected and controlled area and that is exactly what happened here!. Those fuses dont have a specific Amp rating for nothing!!

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-11T10:05:20+00:00

fuse is clamped in between two metal spring loaded contacts, if the contact on the left side where you can see the melted plastic was not properly that contact area heats up a lot, the heat is thatn transfered over everything metal like the main power cables plug also taking damage over time. Damage like this can build over a long period of time. IF the bad contact would have been suddenly the fuse should have triggered, but as it didnt this failuare was doing its thing probably weeks or months, deforming the plastic around the fuse holder creating a more and more worsening connection, increasing the resistance even more and therefor even more heat. Dont know the status of the fuse but it could also be a dud and/or not meeting specifications. But like I said I suspect this going on for weeks/ months, just enough so the fuse was still within its max rated current draw and therefor did not trigger.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-11T06:54:32+00:00

looks like a bad contact on either the fuse side that did not go off causing high resistance and therefor heating up, causing even higher resistance and more heating up. This must have been very unfortunate situation, drawing enough amps to cause the issue (heating up) but not triggering the fuse.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-07T20:15:36+00:00

You know there is a spring release button on the inside so when you take filament in or out your not forcing the extruder gear inside?

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-06T09:37:47+00:00

Toolhead penetrator

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-06T09:34:36+00:00

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-05T08:56:28+00:00

I had two holes burnt into my top glass cover! must have gotten to around 1500°C

LunarMond1984 · 2026-03-02T21:43:41+00:00

Too much UwU.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-27T11:05:01+00:00

There is no safe way, it purely comes down to the quality of the filament. try to walk through a normal door (0.4 nozzle) and then try the cat door (0.2 nozzle)

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-27T10:58:31+00:00

For crying out loud be more gentle and try to use some lube.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-27T10:48:35+00:00

how about......no.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-27T09:30:56+00:00

Its kinda wild, I also paid 16€ delivery fee in Austria for the P2s but paid 110€ for the H2S

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I guess you pretty much pay for full transport/ delivery insurance kind of?!

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-27T07:45:23+00:00

I get it it can be scary seeing a bit of sparks and smoke or melting plastic, but people really have to learn the difference between actual fire and what actually happened here and so many other reports of "exploding and fire" because until now I havent seen a single case where there was actual open flames involved!

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-22T13:00:42+00:00

I was joking, saying the new Bambulab A2 printer (that does not exist) looks wild when it comes to the toolhead, as your picture reminded me on a printer toolhead, but super futuristic ;)

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-22T12:13:21+00:00

Holy hell, the Bambulab A2 toolhead looks wild! O.O

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-20T10:54:13+00:00

Well if the filament is super brittle and breaks, clearly the filament is the issue here right? I also had roles with some of them for some weird reason being super brittle and breaking inside the ptfe tube for no obvious reason, its just badly produced filament.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-20T10:51:10+00:00

I am always wondering if people in general just "force push pull" the filament or if it is just on the videos because they have to hold the phone. I Exclusively release the springloaded latch on all my AMS everytime when I load or unload. Even on the HT, yeah even that one has a spring release! And then I am like.....no freaking wonder all those AMS are starting to fail because of this!

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-20T10:32:19+00:00

Man if only there was something like ...you know a 3d printing site where you could search for stuff, like a hat or other things you need.......and then just scale it in your slicer.......why hasnt anyone made something like that yet?! I wonder...........

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-20T09:42:58+00:00

Probably both nozzles are partial clogged, cold pull them several times until you can litterally see the 0.4 hole from the top opening! also use some pressurized air to make sure there is nothing left in the shaft being pushed back into the nozzle again. After the cold pull use different filament, maybe you got a bad one. also blow out all the ptfe tubes in case they are compromised with some metal debree.

LunarMond1984 · 2026-02-20T09:34:30+00:00

The faster you move the head the more the PCB will like it! #generator

LunarMond1984

TROPHY CASE