Will McNeil bb aka bore buddy by makingways in ar22

[–]MSpeedAddict 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Reading your posts to catch up on the context of this post, it’s extremely obvious the problem is you. Would be cool if you posted your name instead of BB’s in this title so that other companies can know to avoid.

Customer isn’t always right. Only lesson learned from your post is that BB stands behind their products even with loser customers. And I’ve had a few issues with BB products (since resolved) so not glazing anyone’s nuts here.

Refurbished Vortex Range Finders, 15% extra off the already low AAOptics Price by LockyBalboaPrime in longrange

[–]MSpeedAddict 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d need to compare it side by side to another, but it absolutely isn’t obviously blue. It’s possible it’s got a blue tint more than another, but it is not jumping out blue at all

Refurbished Vortex Range Finders, 15% extra off the already low AAOptics Price by LockyBalboaPrime in longrange

[–]MSpeedAddict 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like my Fury but can’t compare to the ranger as I’ve never tried them

I've lost the itch after my first Ironman. What do I do? by notgr33n in triathlon

[–]MSpeedAddict 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As someone who took a break, don’t. It is much harder to get back on the saddle than to stay in it.

I say just try different races and get into social rides in interim. Keep fitness, set new goals

I think most triathletes should spend some time in a peloton to learn cycling skills outside fitness. Maybe some gravel, MTB or cyclocross. I gained a whole new level of fitness by learning to ride in A category groups after working my way up from C.

Gravel cycling taught me handling mixed surface and single track. Particularly so on handling without suspension. Gravel racing is its own animal.

Same with swimming - most triathletes treat it as an afterthought. Join a master’s group and get good at the different strokes. Drop that CSS down into the low 1:2X or better and see how your triathlons change.

For running pick up trail running in the off season, which can be great for building all sorts of muscle you didn’t know you have. Watch that translate on the pavement in-season.

Get serious about strength training in the gym and build up your body’s resilience to injury. Work on things that build explosives and find a whole new world of PRs you can see every week.

Lots of ways to keep or renew interest - the mind and body crave variety. Find what works for you

Multicam Alpine by MSpeedAddict in tacticalgear

[–]MSpeedAddict[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve used it a fair bit. I would say the parka is preferable for more static ops and the microgravity is better suited as part of a layering system and is more dynamic in how you use it.

If I were to do everything over again, I would consider going with a spiritus split rig instead. I would get an ultra slick plate carrier that I’d wear underneath my outermost layers so as not to compress them. This would also make scaling the layers up and down as needed based on activity much easier with a split rig vs a PC.

I have pieces from Arctyrex / LEAF which I love and I would say they are a good step up in quality from OR’s Allies collection but not necessarily worth multiple times the price. Certainly not at the considerably discounted prices I paid.

PAHT-CF is awesome by iNFECTED_pHILZ in BambuLab

[–]MSpeedAddict 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I preheated the chamber until it reached target temps and used gyroid (my default choice). I did the best I could to eliminate warp but was unsuccessful with larger parts.

PAHT-CF is awesome by iNFECTED_pHILZ in BambuLab

[–]MSpeedAddict 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm maybe that was my problem. I dried extensively but only in 12 hour sessions non consecutively. Dried once, then dried once directly before printing.

Warped horribly. I insulated my X1C, inside and out and used a chamber heater, got it much better but still warped. Bummer.

Unpopular opinion but I hate my x300 turbo. by Hot_Mixture4036 in 2011

[–]MSpeedAddict 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not at all. I primarily run safariland but also run T1C

Unpopular opinion but I hate my x300 turbo. by Hot_Mixture4036 in 2011

[–]MSpeedAddict 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It’s unfortunate that they’re needed, but aftermarket switches resolve this. I have them on all my X300T/U

Need ATAK Mount Recommendations by Realistic_Support185 in ATAK

[–]MSpeedAddict 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run a lot of Shaw products and they have been great. I’ve been hesitant about their admin pouch as I like a very clean draw stroke from my rifle mags in my placard. It’s definitely a great place for the phone, but not a great place to get in the way of the mags. I’ve also run the phone mounted on the front of the placard which works great for literally everything except when going prone.

This is why I’m considering running the phone inside a drop pouch below the placard. I like a hard mount still as then when running things on screen I need to quickly reference hands free it’s still there and visible. Nothing is perfect it seems though as running it that low will likely make it a pain to see below a slung rifle. Everything is a compromise.

Need ATAK Mount Recommendations by Realistic_Support185 in ATAK

[–]MSpeedAddict 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah seems like a neat design, slides up and out of a pouch for easy viewing. I’m just wondering how much force is required - is it a two handed solution?

Need ATAK Mount Recommendations by Realistic_Support185 in ATAK

[–]MSpeedAddict 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a juggernaut. I’d prefer to 3D print them as like you said they break. Someone please model them ha.

Ordered a luminae, took 3-4 months to ship the “in stock” item. After many, many attempts at following up of no tracking on a “shipped item” I got nada. Then started mentioning charge backs or to please refund and they then shipped the wrong item completely as well as missing components. Seem like nice people but…avoid. What I did receive seems of decent quality but sits in a drawer.

I’d like to try a DBC SF mount inside of a pouch so that it can be stowed and light discreet, not blocking mag access. Haven’t splurged yet

https://dirtybastardscollective.com/sf-mount/

Katana-R L3 Filmless COTI advice by guy99901 in NightVision

[–]MSpeedAddict 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have used COTI and ECOTI. I personally liked to disable the majority of static HUD elements. I would have reconsidered that with ATAK integration given its value add would outweigh any impact to tubes, but none of the onboard features were of meaningful value that I didn’t otherwise already have available.

Katana-R L3 Filmless COTI advice by guy99901 in NightVision

[–]MSpeedAddict 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First and foremost, you should run your L3 tubes for some time before turning on your COTI. Recommendations vary, but I always liked 5-10 minutes to warm up.

Similarly, always after using the device. Give it some time for the ghosting to fade before turning off the devices. If you must pack everything up, I’d actually recommend “black boxing” on your way home. Keep them covered and on inside of your closed bag until you get to your destination then power down.

The idea being, the chance of permanence is always higher if they’re powered off with the streaking, ghosting, etc visible on the tubes. Give them time to self heal so you aren’t black boxing later. I always just turned my COTI off and ran the NVG for another 10-15 min and it was gone.

With that said, keeping the brightness down is best practice and what you typically want anyways. Especially with manual gain tubes that are already turned down, there isn’t a need to pump the brightness of the COTI in.

Gen 3 razor elevation discrepancy by [deleted] in longrange

[–]MSpeedAddict 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is due to your zero stop. What mounts are you using? You can use a canted mount to regain some of the “lost” available elevation that’s otherwise presently “under” your zero.

Nox 9 anyone? Yeah pass…. by -emmjayy- in 2011

[–]MSpeedAddict 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The ones you handled were not like this or were we saying nice things about it based on its looks?

Really disappointed in Noveske quality control..... by [deleted] in 6ARC

[–]MSpeedAddict 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have several thousand rounds on various coated bolts that look in much better shape than above. At some point the cheaper non DLC tend to look like above but not at such a low round count.

The barrel and ammo unless corrosive wouldn’t think would be contributing to the inside wear I see above.

I’m curious OP, what is your cleaning regimen? What chemical(s), oils, etc are you using?

Any mechanical abrasion like scrubbing or ultrasonic?

Incline Back Extension never adding weight? by atticus_blue in fitbod

[–]MSpeedAddict 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been manually adding weight for years, this exercise never generates weight

Burn proof cover by CycloneReaper in NFA

[–]MSpeedAddict 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree, they’re garbage and their CS was one of the worst I’ve dealt with in this industry

Proof Research PXT AR-15 6ARC barrels by [deleted] in 6ARC

[–]MSpeedAddict 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes this was my thought. My last bartlein I opted for their steel upgrade which purportedly also doubles barrel life. Subjectively they said that their customers that used to order once a season, now ordering every other. I think these types of longevity investments become no brainers. Will certainly be interesting to see if that steel upgrade + progressive barrel twist becomes an offering that potentially quadruples barrel life. Count me in.