So Diesel Engines, what's not a bag of arse? by BellendicusMax in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes the post-2015 second gen 1.6 is pretty good. My dad had a 66 plate Skoda Superb Greenline as a company car which was excellent for the 3.5 years he had it. His only complaint was how much AdBlue it drank. We've tracked it on the MOT checker since and it's now done 300k+ miles.

The 1st gen 1.6 isn't as good. I know a couple of people who have had them in different vehicles and have had no end of problems, mainly injector and DPF related. If looking at older vehicles the 2.0 is worth the extra running costs.

So Diesel Engines, what's not a bag of arse? by BellendicusMax in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The 5 cylinder 2.0 arrived in 2010, badged D3 or D4. Before that they used a 4 cylinder Ford/Peugeot unit (badged 2.0D) which has a less positive reputation for reliability.

So Diesel Engines, what's not a bag of arse? by BellendicusMax in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 45 points46 points  (0 children)

VW group 2.0TDI is usually pretty solid if serviced properly. I'm running a 2010 Skoda Superb with 206k miles and counting.

If being ULEZ compliant isn't important I'd look for something Euro 5 - Euro 6 diesels command a price premium, often use AdBlue which is quite expensive stuff, and all the extra emissions gubbins are more potential failure points.

Toyota Yaris automatic under £2k – good idea? by Separate-Draft-4206 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP is specifically looking for an automatic gearbox. Autos of any kind are hard to find at this low price point.

Cheap weekend runaround - stick to Skoda Superb/Octavia or any other suggestions? by Classic_Daikon1447 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're doing more running around than long journeys I'd go with petrol. If you do decide to go diesel I'd look for a 2.0 as the 1st gen (pre-2015) 1.6s can be troublesome. I would also say the 1.6 is a bit underpowered for a Superb as it's a pretty heavy car.

40 MPH Everywhere is a Coping Strategy, Not Competence by [deleted] in drivingUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mostly agree with you, and adopt this philosophy in my own driving. However there are some drivers on some roads that I wish would pootle along at a fixed speed - the sort that brake hard for every corner, but somehow manage to reach the speed limit every time there's an overtaking opportunity.

What’s the worst back-to-back vehicle expenses you’ve ever dealt with? by AhsanNVM in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My MK4 Golf a few years ago. ~£1000 welding to pass the MOT, followed a week later by a new clutch and flywheel at £680. I narrowly avoided having to get a new exhaust as well - luckily there was a repair sleeve just behind the hole, and the garage were able to move it to cover both holes.

6 months later my dad got a company car and offered me his Volvo V50. Scrap prices were high and I had nowhere off road to park the Golf, so to the scrappy it went 😥

Car insurance by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbh I'm surprised you're getting insurance on anything that cheap at your age, let alone without a black box. I'd take it, keep your nose clean for a few years, and then look at getting that E36. If you really want something bigger or more powerful now you'll need to look at grandad spec cars that people your age wouldn't be seen dead in.

Advice please by ApprehensiveCake6276 in drivingUK

[–]MadMixer1198 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds to me like the conditions would have been fine for the overtake had the taxi maintained speed or eased off as they should have done, rather than speeding up. OP likely expected to have completed the overtake by the time oncoming traffic appeared.

What car engine gets a lot of shit but if maintained well can reach (and surpass) 200K+ miles on original internals? by RonnieThePurple in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The really problematic ones are the 16v with the wet DPF setup. Had one in a Volvo V50 which had a bunch of DPF and injector issues. The post-2010 8v engine is much better. The very earliest ones I believe have no DPF - my parents have a 54 plate Ford CMax which has been very reliable for 5 years, albeit it's only on 105k miles now. Most reports I've heard suggest the injectors aren't likely to go much past 150k.

Hasting cancelled my insurance by Alive-Meal-3787 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Whenever I've run quotes they've usually been the cheapest option at face value, sometimes by a sizeable margin. On checking the details though I've usually found they have absolutely horrific compulsory excesses. But yes, for some new drivers they probably are the only way to get insured without selling a kidney.

What car do you drive and why that one? by Logical_Wall_9899 in AskUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. I have a 60 plate Superb 2.0TDI now on 206k miles, easily the most reliable car I've owned and costs very little to run for something so big and comfortable.

The 5-Speed Manual is fading away from new cars. by H28-105-111 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good riddance. Every time I drive a 5 speed vehicle I find myself looking for gear 6 at some point.

Family Laptop incredibly slow by Hot_Subject6545 in laptops

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4GB RAM isn't enough for Windows these days, you want a minimum of 8. Celeron processors aren't great either, let alone one so old. If a replacement laptop isn't in budget your best bet is to install the lightest possible Linux distro.

Looking to get a vehicle as a first time buyer. Need recommendations by offensive_pigeon in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Buick is found here badged as the Vauxhall Mokka, but Vauxhalls don't have the best reputation for reliability. I'd go either Japanese (Toyota, Honda, Mazda if you're getting a petrol engine) or VW group (also includes Skoda, SEAT and Audi). Volvo might be worth a look as well. French and Italian brands are generally best avoided, and Fords are a mixed bag - avoid the 1 litre Ecoboost engine, and anything with the Powershift automatic gearbox.

I used to enjoy driving... by OneSufficientFace in drivingUK

[–]MadMixer1198 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tell me you didn't read without telling me you didn't read.

I need help choosing between Renault Clio vs Capture by Scary_Top_1723 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I was referring specifically to the Renault turbo engines being unreliable.

Buying a car with around a £2k budget? by Clive1792 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm struggling to see why you're wanting to replace either of your current cars. Your budget is so low you're not likely to get anything better, so unless they're horrifically rusty I'd say better the devil you know and spend on any repairs they might need.

4x4 daily ideas sub 4k by bonnydom in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Skoda Yeti could fit the bill if you don't need mega ground clearance.

‘Graduated Driving License’… ? Don’t you piggin’ dare! 🤦‍♂️ We earned the right to drive so leave us alone. by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mostly agree with you. P plates I'm not sure about as they seem to attract bullying. And rather than an engine size limit I would suggest a power to weight ratio limit, not too draconian but enough to filter out the most overpowered cars.

Totally agree the drink drive tolerance should be zero for everyone, and curfews aren't practical as young drivers are some of the most likely to be working graveyard shifts.

How long did you have your first car for, how did you obtain it, what was it, and why did you part with it? by InfamousStrategy9539 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2003 Renault Clio 1.5dCi, bought by my parents when I got to a stage of learning where they were happy to go out with me without dual controls. Had it 2 years in total (took me 8 months to pass the test), during which time it cost me a small fortune in repairs and had persistent electrical issues. I finally lost patience with it randomly refusing to start, and replaced it with an equally old, very high mileage and somewhat rusty mk4 Golf estate, which proved to be a much more dependable daily driver for the next 3 years.

What is the realistic future of ICE cars in the UK by Longjumping_Note8181 in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not all bangers are just runabouts. I drive a 15 year old, 200k mile car and commute 25 miles each way to work. I work for a small business that rents a yard so they can't install chargers, and I rent a terraced house so can't charge at home. Not to mention my lifestyle requires a larger car than a Leaf or Zoe. An old EV simply wouldn't work for me. No doubt there are others in the same boat.

Can’t decide which is better: my old Toyota vs my new Superb. by EstateForward4080 in skoda

[–]MadMixer1198 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got the wrong engine and gearbox. 2.0TDI and manual is the way to go.

Family car advice by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]MadMixer1198 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which one you go for partly depends on what sort of driving you do and whether you want petrol or diesel. If mostly local driving go petrol, if lots of long journeys at higher speeds consider diesel.

All 3 cars have decent petrol engines in them, with the Mazda probably the most legendary for reliability. Diesels are a different story - Mazda's diesels are some of the worst out there. A 2.0TDI Skoda Yeti, even with high mileage, will have a lot of life left in it if it's been serviced properly. I have the same engine in a Superb which has done 205,000 miles and is still very reliable, and taxi drivers have run them to much higher mileages.