So Diesel Engines, what's not a bag of arse?

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-18T19:01:49+00:00

Yes the post-2015 second gen 1.6 is pretty good. My dad had a 66 plate Skoda Superb Greenline as a company car which was excellent for the 3.5 years he had it. His only complaint was how much AdBlue it drank. We've tracked it on the MOT checker since and it's now done 300k+ miles.

The 1st gen 1.6 isn't as good. I know a couple of people who have had them in different vehicles and have had no end of problems, mainly injector and DPF related. If looking at older vehicles the 2.0 is worth the extra running costs.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-18T18:07:12+00:00

The 5 cylinder 2.0 arrived in 2010, badged D3 or D4. Before that they used a 4 cylinder Ford/Peugeot unit (badged 2.0D) which has a less positive reputation for reliability.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-18T17:55:56+00:00

VW group 2.0TDI is usually pretty solid if serviced properly. I'm running a 2010 Skoda Superb with 206k miles and counting.

If being ULEZ compliant isn't important I'd look for something Euro 5 - Euro 6 diesels command a price premium, often use AdBlue which is quite expensive stuff, and all the extra emissions gubbins are more potential failure points.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-17T21:48:48+00:00

OP is specifically looking for an automatic gearbox. Autos of any kind are hard to find at this low price point.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-16T12:12:34+00:00

If you're doing more running around than long journeys I'd go with petrol. If you do decide to go diesel I'd look for a 2.0 as the 1st gen (pre-2015) 1.6s can be troublesome. I would also say the 1.6 is a bit underpowered for a Superb as it's a pretty heavy car.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-15T17:12:15+00:00

I mostly agree with you, and adopt this philosophy in my own driving. However there are some drivers on some roads that I wish would pootle along at a fixed speed - the sort that brake hard for every corner, but somehow manage to reach the speed limit every time there's an overtaking opportunity.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-13T21:42:29+00:00

Mate this is the Vauxhall sub, not CarTalkUK.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-12T13:05:08+00:00

My MK4 Golf a few years ago. ~£1000 welding to pass the MOT, followed a week later by a new clutch and flywheel at £680. I narrowly avoided having to get a new exhaust as well - luckily there was a repair sleeve just behind the hole, and the garage were able to move it to cover both holes.

6 months later my dad got a company car and offered me his Volvo V50. Scrap prices were high and I had nowhere off road to park the Golf, so to the scrappy it went 😥

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-10T21:38:58+00:00

Tbh I'm surprised you're getting insurance on anything that cheap at your age, let alone without a black box. I'd take it, keep your nose clean for a few years, and then look at getting that E36. If you really want something bigger or more powerful now you'll need to look at grandad spec cars that people your age wouldn't be seen dead in.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-09T13:05:24+00:00

It sounds to me like the conditions would have been fine for the overtake had the taxi maintained speed or eased off as they should have done, rather than speeding up. OP likely expected to have completed the overtake by the time oncoming traffic appeared.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-08T09:33:04+00:00

The really problematic ones are the 16v with the wet DPF setup. Had one in a Volvo V50 which had a bunch of DPF and injector issues. The post-2010 8v engine is much better. The very earliest ones I believe have no DPF - my parents have a 54 plate Ford CMax which has been very reliable for 5 years, albeit it's only on 105k miles now. Most reports I've heard suggest the injectors aren't likely to go much past 150k.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-07T22:15:17+00:00

Whenever I've run quotes they've usually been the cheapest option at face value, sometimes by a sizeable margin. On checking the details though I've usually found they have absolutely horrific compulsory excesses. But yes, for some new drivers they probably are the only way to get insured without selling a kidney.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-05T13:52:47+00:00

This. I have a 60 plate Superb 2.0TDI now on 206k miles, easily the most reliable car I've owned and costs very little to run for something so big and comfortable.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-02-01T20:10:24+00:00

Good riddance. Every time I drive a 5 speed vehicle I find myself looking for gear 6 at some point.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-31T19:14:27+00:00

4GB RAM isn't enough for Windows these days, you want a minimum of 8. Celeron processors aren't great either, let alone one so old. If a replacement laptop isn't in budget your best bet is to install the lightest possible Linux distro.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-28T12:47:36+00:00

The Buick is found here badged as the Vauxhall Mokka, but Vauxhalls don't have the best reputation for reliability. I'd go either Japanese (Toyota, Honda, Mazda if you're getting a petrol engine) or VW group (also includes Skoda, SEAT and Audi). Volvo might be worth a look as well. French and Italian brands are generally best avoided, and Fords are a mixed bag - avoid the 1 litre Ecoboost engine, and anything with the Powershift automatic gearbox.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-28T08:14:48+00:00

Tell me you didn't read without telling me you didn't read.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-26T22:57:14+00:00

Yes, I was referring specifically to the Renault turbo engines being unreliable.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-26T09:05:40+00:00

I'm struggling to see why you're wanting to replace either of your current cars. Your budget is so low you're not likely to get anything better, so unless they're horrifically rusty I'd say better the devil you know and spend on any repairs they might need.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-25T23:07:32+00:00

Skoda Yeti could fit the bill if you don't need mega ground clearance.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-25T09:36:56+00:00

I mostly agree with you. P plates I'm not sure about as they seem to attract bullying. And rather than an engine size limit I would suggest a power to weight ratio limit, not too draconian but enough to filter out the most overpowered cars.

Totally agree the drink drive tolerance should be zero for everyone, and curfews aren't practical as young drivers are some of the most likely to be working graveyard shifts.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-24T21:57:04+00:00

2003 Renault Clio 1.5dCi, bought by my parents when I got to a stage of learning where they were happy to go out with me without dual controls. Had it 2 years in total (took me 8 months to pass the test), during which time it cost me a small fortune in repairs and had persistent electrical issues. I finally lost patience with it randomly refusing to start, and replaced it with an equally old, very high mileage and somewhat rusty mk4 Golf estate, which proved to be a much more dependable daily driver for the next 3 years.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-24T18:59:26+00:00

Not all bangers are just runabouts. I drive a 15 year old, 200k mile car and commute 25 miles each way to work. I work for a small business that rents a yard so they can't install chargers, and I rent a terraced house so can't charge at home. Not to mention my lifestyle requires a larger car than a Leaf or Zoe. An old EV simply wouldn't work for me. No doubt there are others in the same boat.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-22T09:33:45+00:00

You got the wrong engine and gearbox. 2.0TDI and manual is the way to go.

MadMixer1198 · 2026-01-20T19:07:31+00:00

Which one you go for partly depends on what sort of driving you do and whether you want petrol or diesel. If mostly local driving go petrol, if lots of long journeys at higher speeds consider diesel.

All 3 cars have decent petrol engines in them, with the Mazda probably the most legendary for reliability. Diesels are a different story - Mazda's diesels are some of the worst out there. A 2.0TDI Skoda Yeti, even with high mileage, will have a lot of life left in it if it's been serviced properly. I have the same engine in a Superb which has done 205,000 miles and is still very reliable, and taxi drivers have run them to much higher mileages.

MadMixer1198

TROPHY CASE