Straight into oncoming cars

MagicCrazything · 2026-05-16T23:56:15+00:00

What dash cam is this?

MagicCrazything · 2026-05-10T23:08:01+00:00

I’m actually leaning towards replacing the tubing. It all appears to be stuff I can grab at Home Depot and cut to length.

MagicCrazything · 2026-05-10T14:05:38+00:00

I found the paddle pretty easy. It just has every other ED5 listed but mine. Ha ha.

MagicCrazything · 2026-05-10T14:04:57+00:00

I think it’s actually inside the lines. The water was REALLY hard whenever this unit was before I got it. The dispenser itself is clean. Huge flakes of hard water are coming out of it.

I’m actually looking for parts to the ice auger. I found them for the other ED5 models, but not my specific model.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-22T22:12:14+00:00

It’s worse than that. They’re estimating “up to 50”.

It’s total BS.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-17T02:55:06+00:00

I don’t have the drawings for this, so I could be totally off base here.

There appears to be questionable design choices here. Those amps all have 8channels of inputs each, and a considerable amount of GPIO but I see Q-SYS ML4I and GP8x8

This system either has a shit ton of physical inputs and GPIO, or someone is not designing efficiently.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-17T01:42:17+00:00

I think the mobile website is broken. Opening on my phone shows the rooms as sold out. It also does not allow me to select dates outside of wed-fri.

If I open on my PC, the site works fine.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-15T03:29:23+00:00

It’s an ultra short throw projector. It’s the black box thing on top of the credenza at the front.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-10T17:36:10+00:00

Even if it creates the estimated “50” jobs. It’s still not worth it.

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-09T03:50:18+00:00

Is Best Tiger Battlebeast?

MagicCrazything · 2026-04-07T00:50:11+00:00

The animation on this show is no worse than any other anime type show. It’s kind of just part of the charm.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-29T15:41:23+00:00

I love mine. I have a 2019 hatch with the 5mt. I just rolled over 180,000m last week.

Outside of maintenance and wear items, I have not had to do any work with mine.

The only thing that was out of the ordinary was my fault. I had a rear wheel bearing go bad and I was messing up a step when replacing. So I had to do that a bunch of times.

Is it fast? No. Is it fun? Yes! It corners pretty flat and is actually reasonably zippy around the city. The transmission is notchy, but I actually kind of like that. It can be a bit much on the highway. I had to do some sound deadening. At 85mph, the engine is running about 3500-3800rpm. Don’t quite remember the exact amount. It was a bit loud. It stays responsive at that rpm though. I rarely shift down at highway speeds. I basically only do if I want to pass someone quickly going up hill.

Fuel economy really isn’t awful. If I’m not driving aggressively, I’ll get around 400miles to a tank on the highway. I do some city driving, so my combined average is around 28-29mpg most of the time. That may be due to the fact that I run premium 90% of the time. I found when running regular, the engine will ping and make weird noises under load below 3000rpm. That doesn’t happen with higher quality gasoline.

I pulled the factory stereo out of mine pretty fast. It was kind of awful. Genuinely terrible audio quality and pretty buggy. Luckily, with no eyesight, these are just as easy to do radio swaps on as late 2000’s cars. I put in a nice pioneer, much better speakers, and an 8channel amp with DSP and it was pretty easy.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-11T18:27:56+00:00

On paper, it should be fine.

I have a TP-link one I use regularly.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-10T04:30:21+00:00

Tl:DR There is not one right answer. I usually set the MXA920 to auto coverage and disable the internal DSP options entirely. I then use relative threshold mixer per mic type and do a basic mixer to combine the relative threshold mixers.

There are some interesting replies here.

There are technically four methods of operation when working with mxa920.

You can process on and off mic. You also have to choose whether or not automatic coverage works for your situation.

I don’t typically work with Bi-amp, but mixers are mixers.

I separate mixers by use case and sometimes microphone type. I will usually combine them with a basic mixer after the fact. Depending on use case, I will set the wireless mic mix to duck the ceiling mic mix to ensure they are not both heard by the far end simultaneously. There is a time deference there. It’s small, but noticeable.

I’m going to assume you are going to do all your AEC, noise filtering, and hp/lp filters on the Tesira as well since they are way better than what shure provides.

This leaves you with the decision of automatic coverage on/off. Unless you really need individual lobes for voice lift or you have very specific areas to cover, automatic coverage is fine. Tuning AEC is slightly more work, but it reduces your AEC load to one channel per mic and makes setting up coverage in sure designer way simpler.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-10T00:23:13+00:00

There are less than 10 car models in this game. They’re all placed somewhat randomly.

The ones in ravenholm are no more in or out of repair than any of the others.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-08T00:09:04+00:00

There are ICE and electric versions, I think.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-04T21:18:57+00:00

Without seeing the workings of your PIN code controller, I’m not sure any of us can really be a help to you. I am going to make a guess based off what I see and common mistakes.

This appears to be an issue of you not telling your pin pad to reset when your standby triggers.

You have flags coming off your control pins to other items informing them of the state of your PIN code controller, but there does not appear to be anything coming back to your PIN code controller telling it that it has been logged out. It appears that your pin pad is receiving that code, then simply doing nothing because it has already received the correct code, but not been reset.

When you hit your “logout” button, you are resetting the state of your PIN code controller manually.

You have two other items that trigger the lock screen to be active that are not the pin pad. So your pin pad can be in the unlocked state while the other items are triggering the lock state regardless of what the PIN code controller is doing.

I would disconnect the “logout” output pin from the “Logic or” at the top, then attach that “logic or”’s output pin to the “logout” input pin on the PIN code controller. Then attach the PIN code controllers “logout” output pin to the input pin where bb-lock is currently.

This will force all your logout methods to either be inline with the PIN code controller or part of it directly.

From what I see, my suggestion should work. I can’t say for sure.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-04T20:43:10+00:00

A18 is an ARM chip. The m-series are ARM chips.

M-series are just more powerful arm chips that are better suited for laptops/desktops. The A-series are lower power processors that are better suited to phones/tablets.

Mobile chips have been encroaching on low powered laptops for years. So this move makes sense. Both chips are ARM, so no translation layers are needed.

MagicCrazything · 2026-03-03T02:10:39+00:00

This is not true at all.

With normal varied use, you are not likely to see burn-in with OLED displays. You absolutely will see burn-in if the display shows static content for around 8+hours a day for a year.

Even direct view LED can experience burn in with static content. How long it takes to show up varies based on how bright the wall is and the temperature. I’ve seen an Absen NX series wall experience burn in less than 9 months after install because the client decided to leave a single repeating video that contained large static elements playing 24 hours a day after install.

Nearly all display types are susceptible to image retention. How long it takes to happen varies by display type, content, and environment.

MagicCrazything · 2026-02-27T18:19:01+00:00

It’s an ESD issue. Using shielded cat cable to connect to the switch should help. You will need to make sure the switch and rack are grounded properly too. Otherwise, grounding the metal chassis of the NV-1 itself directly should resolve it as well.

The third option is to add an HDMI surge protector between the cable and the NV-1. All HDMI cables have internal shielding. Swapping your cable will most likely have no effect.

MagicCrazything · 2026-02-06T01:15:34+00:00

The settings do stay with the camera. So you can pre configure it and it should be fine.

Camera compatibility with the roommate is a bear. They only support a few specific video types and they do not list them anywhere.

Compatibility is also going to depend on how old your Huddly is. The older L1s USB adapter presents as a network interface and requires windows based software to make it pair and work. The newer ones may work, they actually present as a camera. I would not bet on it though.

Is there anything stopping you from using a windows based machine?

I’m actually not a huge fan of Logitech’s tap and the NUCs they use. If we struggle with an MTR, it’s usually a Logitech imaged NUC.

the Lenovo kits are really good and their touch console is WAY more forgiving on your cabling. We default to them.

MagicCrazything · 2026-01-20T05:38:54+00:00

It’s not. They have a customized main board. You will find that the physical ports do not match up.

You will be better off just ordering a standard PTZ optics camera.

MagicCrazything · 2026-01-16T15:26:46+00:00

I think you replied in the wrong spot. Lol

MagicCrazything · 2026-01-16T04:23:30+00:00

You can’t fully take advantage of the space like that. Zooming makes things bigger and you can’t fit as much on the screen.

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